cap making dies

[ofitg]

I've made antimony, tin, and iron sulfide, all tend to be somewhat glassy solids, and mixtures made with them all detonate as reliably as the same mixtures containing grit. It may be that when finely powdered the chemicals require grit, i only sieve my chemicals to # 80 mesh. I don't recall seeing anything in my reading on the subject that mentions how finely chlorate mixtures like H-48 and FH-42 were powdered.

You got my curiosity going, so I chased down a footnote in Davis's book. According to Chamot's 1922 book, Microscopy of Small Arms Primers, the U.S. Army's Ordnance Department had the following specs for antimony sulfide -

All would pass through a 100-mesh screen
30-50% (preferably 40%) would be retained by a 150-mesh screen
30-50% (preferably 40%) would pass through a 200-mesh screen

http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?i...iew=1up;seq=64

[wicket]

Well done Ofitg, thanks for posting the link. Doesn't appear to be a problem with fine particle size even if no grit is included in the mixture. Chamot's remarks on shellac penetration from sealing were also interesting. I tested a batch the other day with and without nitrocellulose covering disks, all sealed with shellac, and had a couple of duds and three where the detonation sounded dull. Obviously i have too heavy a hand to be trusted with shellac around primers.

[ofitg]

Next time I make caps, I think I'll try it without the grit. If I start getting duds, I might conclude that grit is necessary with the 3% shellac binder.....

[wicket]

Interesting question regarding grit vs binder. Chamot sure seems to have an issue with shellac, but it's not clear to me why. Poking around in his book, the cut-away photographs of 19th century caps really caught my attention, the thickness of the metal is impressive.

[ofitg]

Well, crud! I just examined my antimony sulfide with a magnifier. I couldn't find any particles as large as 0.1mm across. My stuff has been milled too finely to conform with the old Army spec.

Might be a good excuse to buy some tin and try your method for making tin sulfide.......

[wicket]

Sounds like it was ground for fireworks without regard to its abrasive qualities, i haven't had any problems with the tin sulfide and the ingredients are easy to find.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

A bit of useful information perhaps........http://www.laflinandrand.com/page3.htm

BvT

[wicket]

I think the question is more how to set the stuff off than how to make it, and to put a finer point on it, what sort of dies are useful in making the caps that hold the primer that ignites the powder that jack built.

[Texantothecore]

I just downloaded the files and took a quick look. Wow it was just what I was seeking for my reference library.

Thank you for the link.

[ofitg]

This week I got a new cap-making die in the mail. Brushhippie posted a video of this die on Youtube so I had to try it out.

It was obviously patterned after the Forster Tap-O-Cap, but there are some distinct differences. Here's a photo of the new cap-maker on the left, and the original Forster Tap-O-Cap on the right -



The new cap-maker has a shorter cylinder body, made from aircraft-grade aluminum, while the original Tap-O-Cap had an all-steel body. Both machines have a steel rod anchored down in the base of the body (not visible in the photo).

The new cap-maker has a plunger/piston with 8 teeth on the end, made from non-magnetic stainless steel. The original Tap-O-Cap's plunger was a bit longer, and had 12 teeth on the end.

Both machines work the same way. First you insert thin sheet aluminum into the slot on the side of the body, and then you drive the plunger down into the body. The plunger cuts a disc from the sheet aluminum and folds it into a little percussion cap hull.

Here's a photo of the new cap-maker's hulls on the left, and the original Tap-O-Cap's hulls on the right (I used the soft sheet aluminum from disposable pie pans). The new cap-maker's hulls are almost identical to the old Tap-O-Cap hulls. They are the same length, and they fit well on the nipples of my Uberti and Pietta revolvers.

[just_shooter]

Hi, ofitg! Where can I buy this tool?

[ofitg]

Brushhippie gives contact info for the builder in his video -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91nRX...x4qZJL907szrou

Another option is to PM the guy "Capmaker" on the Gunslingersgulch forum.

[Rattus58]

Hi, ofitg! Where can I buy this tool?

kvn440@yahoo.com

[shaggybull]

this was posted yesterday.

This video details its use and some information
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMs3HeAo9EI


Here's a video of us using the caps with a suggested "kicker charge" of black powder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNpZLswXxC0

[just_shooter]

kvn440@yahoo.com

10x
I made contact at this email with Kevin. Great fellow.

[AlaskanGuy]

You guys need to give our member MannyCA a look.... He made some pretty awesome dies, and I. Just ordered one... He is a great guy to chat with, and a member here....

Here is the link... http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...14#post2811314

[ofitg]

Outstanding, AG! Thanks for the update!

[AlaskanGuy]

No problem... Tell manny I sent ya for a free set.... He he...

<-------- this means I am Kidding... He wont give you a free be....

AG

[Rattus58]

No problem... Tell manny I sent ya for a free set.... He he...

<-------- this means I am Kidding... He wont give you a free be....

AG

How did you get in touch with him? I'd like to order one from him too!

Aloha...

[smoked turkey]

Rattus58 you can find mannny's ad for his excellent cap maker on page 5 in the swappin & sellin section. That changes daily however. His op was 6-7-2014 and is titled WTS-Black Powder percussion cap maker by mannyCA. I do not have any connection with the sales of these, just a satisfied customer that wants to help spread the word that someone on the forum here is making and selling nice units at a good price. Thanks.