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Thread: OK, here I am

  1. #1
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    OK, here I am

    I have, courtesy of the wonderful people here, a furnace, lead, mold, etc. What do I use for flux - any crayon? I need a slatted sppon, right? Safeway/Wal Mart right around the corner, (that is SO nice!), and I think I can score a scrap piece of plywood to cast on. I have leather gloves, will find some goggles, and then I just plug the furnace in, let it warm up, (or do I put an ingot in whenI turn it on), and wait? When it's molten, I drop a small peice of wax in, avoid the flames, scrape out around the sides with the slatted spoon, and drop the dross on the plywood. When the melt is a uniform silver color, then I dip the Lee mold corner in for a minute, (30 seconds?), to warm up. Then, move it underneath, lift the handle and pour in at a slight angle to "swirl" the lead into the mold. Wait about 5-10 seconds, use the sprue thumper to swivel the sprue plate, and dump the boolits onto a piece of old towel.
    Do I have this right? I hate screwing up.
    I wish people would realize reloaders are recyclers, before anyone else was!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    Pretty close, enough to work, anyway. Do all that and you will have a bullet or two, and then practice makes perfect. Flux is almost anything with carbon in it, cat litter, wax, candles, sawdust, dry sticks, etc. Stir that in so it gets to the molten metal. That's before it all flares off! Don't hold your face over the pot to see the wax melt when you put it in! It can flare.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    If all else fails you can use some of the bullet lube I sent you for flux. just pull off a small piece about the size of a pea and drop it in and do as Wayne suggested stir it in before it burns or flares away.

    You should als put the ingots in the melter when you plug it in, it will all come to temperature and drive off moisture as it gets to a melting point. After you are casting and need to add more ingots, you can add them slowly or you can set them on the lip of the pot to come up in temp before adding them.

    You will also need to lube the sprue plate screw and the alignment pins form time to time. Be careful not to get too much lube, if it runs intot he cavities you will have a devil of a time. You can use crayon/bullet lube/bull plate lube, etc to lube the sprue plate and the alignment pins.

    Don't be shy, ask any question you want to. Glad you are getting set up.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    You will not be sorry if you drop your dross into a coffee tin or some such thing. Have fun bro

    Dave

  5. #5
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Ah, that's what to use that old coffee can for! Thanks. Very much looking forward to this, and thanks again to the wonderful people here making it easier by FAR.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master R.M.'s Avatar
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    One thing that I will stir the alloy in my casting pot, is a chop-stick. Whenever I go to a Japanese restaurant, I scoop the packages off my table. The carbon in the wood seems to act as a flux, just as the act of stirring will get the crud to float to the top. Some chop-sticks will sizzle and pop a tiny bit, and I'm assuming that there is a small bit of moisture in the wood.

    Good luck
    R.M.

  7. #7
    Cast Boolits Founder/Site Owner/B.O.B.


    45nut's Avatar
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    paint stir sticks do very well for the job also, they are wide enough to really scrape the sides and bottom of the pot. You can usually get a few free ones anywhere they mix paint to order.
    Boolits= as God laid it into the soil,,grand old Galena,the Silver Stream graciously hand poured into molds for our consumption.

    Bullets= Machine made utilizing Full Length Gas Checks as to provide projectiles for the masses.

    http://www.cafepress.com/castboolits

    castboolits@gmail.com

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    Pepe Ray's Avatar
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    One tip I havn't noticed.
    Don't put TOO much faith in the leather gloves. The cloth lined ones are better but even these will shrink up and let you burn if you hold a hot iron for too long.
    When handling the pot or full ingot molds, use aids. Old fashioned kitchen pot holders work good. I also find valuable a couple of visegrip pliars of a size to allow good gripping. Remove when done lifting. They'll get hot too.
    A good burn can screw up your whole week end.
    Pepe Ray
    The way is ONLY through HIM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Good, thanks. I have some pliers and such I can use for the ingot mold when I get to that one. The pot I was planning on leaving in place until the lead in it cools solid, then moving it carefully.
    I am looking forward to this!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Goatlips's Avatar
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    Howdy Armoredman,

    Here's my take on it that you might find useful, got pictures anyhow:

    http://goatlipstips.cas-town.com/casting.html

    Goatlips

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    When loading I always give my boolits a final inspection. They are already lubed. The ones that don't make final inspection for some reason are laid aside. I use these in the next pot for my fluxing. Why waste anything ? Jim

  12. #12
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Absolutely, RSOJim.

    Goatlips, I looked at that setup, very nice! Good info, especially how you were frustrated at the beginning. With all the help here, I hope to cut the frustration to a minimum. Thank you!
    Last edited by armoredman; 08-01-2007 at 09:16 AM.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master





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    Think I have tried just about any and all for fluxing. However once I started using wood only in the form of dowels, chopsticks, paint mixers,-----whatever, will never use anything else. Like others have said, there is more than enough carbon in the wood to flux, and it brings the crud to the top very well. Don't know who first came up with the wood factor but sure do thank him. Like the smell of the wood smoke that comes off when you stir much better than the waxes, marvelex and all the rest of the stuff that has been used over the years.
    1Shirt!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check