Yep:
All is need is to send in the stock and action on the 38-55 (less barrel)
and you will have a new 45-70 also
you may have to purchase extra sights for the 45-70
Yep:
All is need is to send in the stock and action on the 38-55 (less barrel)
and you will have a new 45-70 also
you may have to purchase extra sights for the 45-70
Thanks Lonewolf
Group Buy Honcho for 311440Mod, 312190-FNGC, 379230-GC, 380200-GC, 381268-PB, 360180-GC, 360180-PB, 413640-PB, 434330-GC, 434640-PB, 434640-GC, 454640-PB, 462420-PB, 462420-GC, 462420-PB Re-Run, 462420-GC Re-Run, 462640-PB, and 462640-GC Group Buys.
Lever Guns are my Passion!
SASS Life 37141
IHMSA 33587
What about the guns?
I'll second that!
The rear sight is not sufficient for low-velocity work (not enough elevation) and the Lyman 17A doesn't offer enough insert options for shooting beyond 100 yards. I thought I could work around that but other maker's inserts can't be used, so the Lyman is gone and I gotta tell ya; it was an adventure getting that little sob outta that round barrel!
Still, it's a decent rifle for the price and there's quite a bit you can do to trick it out.
Thanks Boz! Brownell's was about the only place i didn't look.....
I GOT my 38 55 to shoot to had to mike all brass . some WW,Win brass is 0.010 neck thickes 4 out of 19 rest .0062 to .0093 . I used .0062 to 0074. with a cast lyman .375248 at 248,249 gr. My alloy Hard. 50yd @ 2.0 in needs tuing. used IMR 3031 kind slow . I brought JJ stuff @ .375 That did not grab the rifing keyholed at 50 yards 4 out 8 cast had llu and pan alox not sized dia. .377 out mould.
Shot 250 today @ 200 and 250 with 4 to 5 in need more tuning thinking a bout AA#9
Nemo
I read a few back post my 38-55 slug the bore at .375 groove and .379 land to land,I had a member here send me a few cast boolets in .379 and .381
I loaded a few in the WW brass and had no problem with the .379 to chamber but the larger .381 was a NO GO
I called starline and ask for a few sample cases in 38-55 :they came the other day and I did test the .381 and the starline brass it chambered with out any problems.
Lonewolf,
If you measure the case thickness, the Starline cases are thinner than the blown out 30-30's or .375 Win so you can seat the fatter boolit.
John
I am like Forest Gump I am not a smart man, but I know what a good sight is. There is an old gentleman that lives in OIklahoma city Okla. that makes the best Vernier sight I have ever seen. No flat spring. That is not the thing for an accurate rifle to start with. I have about a dozen of his sights and they are top notch. If you are interested give me a mail for number.
C Sharps makes a good set up for a little over $100.00
You will need to cut dove tails for them.
This is on a .357 Max with a Buff stock set.
Works very well and looks period. (What ever that is?)
You can find them at:
http://www.csharpsarms.com/sharps_sights.php
Another option is a brass scope.
Or a Browning Tang set up.
This is a Douglas barrel in .40/65 (A very good shooter.)
Sight is set up on a false brass tang.
I think I have tried just about every thing.
My .38/55 is a custom Badger octagon barrel.
with a 32" 4X Brass scope. Good looking rifle for a H&R.
This was the last time out. 10 shot group at 100 yards.
Hard to control the vertical stringing but a good shooter.
Swede Nelson
Last edited by SwedeNelson; 02-13-2008 at 10:38 PM.
The expectation of evil is more bitter than the suffering -OR-
More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.
Swede,
I really like the looks of that brass scope! Where did you get it, and was mounting it a "gunsmith" job?
Jim
"The possession of arms is the distinction between a freeman and a slave."
James Burgh, Political Disquisitions, 1774
SwedeNelson,
If I may, where did you get a .357max barrel for the H&R BC? Does it have a good throat for accurate shooting? I would be very interested in a set up like that.
725
jim4065
Its a DGW scope.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product...7054b7a64c8f8f
The mounts that come with it suck big time. They went in the trash.
Had to use MVA mounts -Very expensive- great mounts.
A better choice would be a Leatherwood Malcolm set up.
http://www.leatherwoodoptics.com/index-malcolm.html
You do have to drill & tap 4 holes for the MVA mounts.
725
My .357 Max was a .357 Mag with a very long throat.
Reaming it out to max fixed the throut problem.
Not hard to do if you have a reamer. You can do it
by hand.
Swede Nelson
Last edited by SwedeNelson; 02-12-2008 at 12:51 PM.
The expectation of evil is more bitter than the suffering -OR-
More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.
Thanks, Swede. My missreading made me think you had a long BC barrel in .357 max. I'd kind of like to have had a long barrel .357 max. That would be different.
725
725
Long is good, but the 22" stock barrel does OK.
H&R has a .45 Long Colt that I would like to play with.
A baby buff!
Swede Nelson
The expectation of evil is more bitter than the suffering -OR-
More people die from worrying about getting ate by a bear then get ate by a bear.
Not much help here. Have only owned one a 22 revolver and it shoots pretty well. The only other I've had any experience with was a new 22 Hornet single shot.... that thing shot so poorly it couldn't hit the ground! But the "Aitch & Aura" 38-55 can't have any more chamber-throat-groove diameter issues than some of the early Winchester 94 38-55s... whew! Careful selection and sizing of bullets and brass is the only way. Either very frustrating or very rewarding.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |