Trying to design universal Mauser bedding, anyone done this?

[Clark]

I can make a universal for the recoil lug and front screw.
The trouble is in the rear.
I can see how to do all 98s and 94 Swedes with rear action screw slots , but the short length of the 1891 Argentine would require a slot that goes so far forward it will run into after market trigger mechanisms on 98s.

If anyone has done this...

[waksupi]

I don't understand the question or concept.

[Clark]

Trying to steel bed a stock so any Mauser will drop in a get a good fit to the recoil lug and rear pillar.

[pietro]

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IMO, it's not possible, since machining & forging tolerances over 100 years ago were in no way nearly as close/accurate as modern rifles (post-1962) that rather easily lend themselves to metal bedding block(s).

It just might be fun, however, to prove me wrong............


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[waksupi]

.

IMO, it's not possible, since machining & forging tolerances over 100 years ago were in no way nearly as close/accurate as modern rifles (post-1962) that rather easily lend themselves to metal bedding block(s).

It just might be fun, however, to prove me wrong............


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Not to mention there are at least 48 Mauser variations.

[leebuilder]

I see the problems. Biggest hurdle I see is the variety of stock screw distances if you could have a "shoe" to bed the action universally to the stock. But that may be another case of canned worms.
Be safe

[nekshot]

Do these 1pc metal inletting things produce better results than a properly bedded action? Often wondered about that?

[lefty o]

even something as simple as a rem 700 has enough tolerance variation that all these wonderful bedding blocks still really need to be glass bedded for best accuracy. a universal mauser bedding block is never going to shoot well across the board with different actions.

[Don Fischer]

I would not attempt that.

[Clark]

I got one running, but it only fits 98 Mausers. I have 10 different kinds of Mausers taken apart on the bench right now and it is a real mess.

Shove a tight fitting pin gauge in the forward mauser action screw hole.Measure from rear of lug to far side of pin gauge
Subtract off half of pin gauge diameter.

La Coruna1954 98 Mauser 0.211" pin gauge, 0.312" distance measured, 0.2065" calculated
1903 turk, .197, .308, 0.2095"
Dumoulin, .203, .300, 0.1985"
BRNO VZ24, .192, .300, 0.2040"
1908 Brazil, .195, .303, 0.2055"
Zavista PH .216, .305, 0.1970"
Swastikas .199, .314, 0.2145"
Nazi 1940 J.P. Sauer .199 .309, 0.2095"
1918 Oberndorf .195 .311, 0.2135"
La Coruna 2006 .214, .321, 0.214

1938 Turk .203, .290, 0.1885
Husqvarna [FN] 203, .318, 0.2165"

Any recoil lug will fit now.
I need to make a slotted rear pillar that will accommodate the 1894 and 1891 lengths.

[357Mag]

CLark -

Howdy !

Can you go w/ a modified "V"-block set-up ?


With regards,
357Mag

[Clark]

No.
I do sort of a V block for round bottoms. I make a pillar with a concave radius smaller than the reciver, but not so small the action screws can't snug up at the bottom of the receiver. The V block is a force multiplier on a cylinder, but it only touches on two lines, and things besides Vs can touch there.

After years of making pillars that go around the stock pillar in Mauser bottom metal, I am making a 0.150" thick block epoxied to the stock that the receiver and bottom metal clamp against. The receiver touches on the bottom of the recoil lug. The bottom metal touches with the top of the stock pillar.

I knew I wanted that for a long time, but could not figure out how to get the back of the recoil lug flush with the block. I am now making a dummy front pillar. It can get pounded out without prying. I go through the top.

The results are not perfect. I want a long sustained exponentially decaying sinusoid when I grasp the rifle at the wrist with one hand a smack the barrel with the other. Right now the sustain is only one second. I need to attach a microphone and scope so I can troubleshoot or improve. I have got better sustain in the past with epoxy bedding touching the receiver. I cannot do that for a "drop any barrelled receiver in here" stock.

If i can get this working right... I need more sustain... I need to also fit Swedes and 1891s.

[JHeath]

Problems like this are interesting. Perhaps the solution involves a full length bedding insert with a tapered pocket at rear into which fit smaller dedicated inserts for each action length. The main insert beds the lug, and its pocket at rear has a taper at the forward end so the smaller rear insert is drawn slightly rearward as the rear stock screw is tightened. I am not looking at a Mauser stock now so might be describing an impossibility. But do suspect the answer will not be a one-piece unit. It will need adjustment, and probably some form of inclined plane to take up any slack in the adjustment.

[flounderman]

As long as they still make epoxy, why bother. One size fits all after it hardens.

[Clark]

I made another one tonight. I think I have found why I was not getting enough sustain when I smacked the barrel like a tuning fork. The bottom metal was touching the wood.

[MtGun44]

"Mausers" means any one of four entirely different designs, made in at least a dozen different
factories over at least 40-50 years to the specifications of 20-30 governments or more. Some of
the basic parts are 'fairly' interchangeable, but I think this is like making an engine mount which
will work for all Chevys.........from 1936 to 2009. Not going to be possible, is my bet.

Oh, yes, there are also at least 2 or 3 different commercial makers out there, too, for civilian
models. Oberndorf, FN, Lowe and DWM, later Mauserwerke -- I think they all made commercial
versions to one degree or another.

Concentrate on one design, like the Mauser 98 and one ring size, like large ring and you MIGHT
have a chance. Large ring 98 Mausers are likely to vary somewhat, but just MAYBE a whole
bunch will be close enough to do you some good.

Bill

[Clark]

I am still at it. I have re bed 6 Mausers.

[Clark]

7 Mausers

[Clark]

8 Mausers

[Clark]

9 Mausers