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Thread: can you make priming compound?

  1. #61
    Boolit Master
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    I forgot about that book. I've have that one and think it is worth having. I was going to make a non-corrosive that I might be able to get to work using Olin duplex idea. But, I may just try the peroxide one first as it doesn't involve ordering anything. I do have what is need for the other one, the chem isn't normally available in most areas. It is use for electroless nickel plating.

    Ron Brown's book "Homemade Guns and Homemade Ammo" is, IMO, a must have. His very easy primer compound works. I substituted sandblasting sand for the powdered glass. The mix worked and lasted for several months. Brown's book also has the details on make a chlorate generator with scrap materials.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master
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    I forgot about that book. I've had it for years and haven't seen it for sale lately. IMO, it is a must have for those who are interested in this.

    I was going to test a non-corrosive using the Olin duplex idea. It really is for 22 rimfire and Berdan primers, but not Boxer. But, the Olin idea may allow for its use in Boxer. It is very simple to make and get the raw materials, but the testing would take a while. I might just give the peroxide one a test first, as the need chems are easily available.

    My experience with toy cap the last few years are the same as yours. I don't like the surprise I get when they go off when I'm working with them.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master
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    There was a giant explosion maybe 20 years ago in Henderson, Nevada when a fire broke out in the country's largest ammonium perchlorate manufacturing plant. Nobody actually thought the stuff would detonate by itself, but things that have been proven in laboratories sometimes change out in the real world. Especially when it comes to energetic materials. It didn't help that the plant was located right over the electrical and gas lines that ran from Arizona and the Hoover Dam to Las Vegas.

  4. #64
    Boolit Master
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    For a mix that should work with the Olin duplex idea. This is a non-corrosive mix.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rtridges/page2
    Last edited by perotter; 02-24-2013 at 07:33 PM. Reason: replaced 1st line

  5. #65
    Boolit Man Raven_Darkcloud's Avatar
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    Has anyone tried to make a a wet mix from the potassium chlorate / sulfur using alcohol? Watched a cci tour vid and it looks like a wet mix would be much easier to work with.

  6. #66
    Boolit Master
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    you need to clean your gun after use but you can use the old cap gun caps in the roll and fine 4 fg black powder and you are good to go . you can get it at a dept store in the toy area .
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  7. #67
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    The priming compound shown at 4:50 into this video would be the recipe I would want.



  8. #68
    Boolit Master
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    I'd be really interested in that citric acid/peroxide/hexamine mix, what are the details to that recipe?

    I tried extracting the primer out of some percussion caps the other night using some 50% rubbing alcohol, then I dried it on top of my furnace near the dehumidifier. It didn't work, but I suspect my mistake was replacing the anvil with the mix wet, it squished it out from the pinch point.

  9. #69
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by destrux View Post
    I'd be really interested in that citric acid/peroxide/hexamine mix, what are the details to that recipe?
    Destrux, stay away. That stuff is a sensitive, detonating primary explosive (same class as mercury fulminate, but stronger), the high strength peroxide it requires is very hazardous to handle, and you need a Federal license to even possess the resulting compound (plus inspected and registered storage, same kind of place you'd store blasting caps).

  10. #70
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by I'll Make Mine View Post
    Destrux, stay away. That stuff is a sensitive, detonating primary explosive (same class as mercury fulminate, but stronger), the high strength peroxide it requires is very hazardous to handle, and you need a Federal license to even possess the resulting compound (plus inspected and registered storage, same kind of place you'd store blasting caps).
    You don't need a Federal license to possess this if you are going to use it for making your own ammo. Nor do you need an inspected and registered storage. We've been down this road a few times on this forum.

  11. #71
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by destrux View Post
    I'd be really interested in that citric acid/peroxide/hexamine mix, what are the details to that recipe?

    I tried extracting the primer out of some percussion caps the other night using some 50% rubbing alcohol, then I dried it on top of my furnace near the dehumidifier. It didn't work, but I suspect my mistake was replacing the anvil with the mix wet, it squished it out from the pinch point.


    http://www.martinfrost.ws/htmlfiles/june2007/imhv3.pdf

    There are other thing in this FM that you may want to know. I think DuPont/Remington is who did the work on that section of the book.

    It's at about page 48 or 49. This isn't a compound that you'll want to store for a long time in or out of primers.

  12. #72
    Boolit Man
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    Just curious, has anyone hurt themselves or had close calls yet? this thread died all the sudden. (no pun intended)

  13. #73
    Boolit Bub
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    well im not sure why the thread died, but with primers getting more expensive and harder to get, i have been doing some reloading of spent primers, i did not try all the chemical mixes from the thread, but here is what i have done. I loaded up several diferent coumpounds in some of my spent primers just ot see if they would work.
    first i used 1 of the caps from the "roll cap" type caps, i trimed it with sissors to make it fit in the cup. pressed the anvil back in and loaded it in my gun (just the primed case), it did go off, so i loaded 10 rounds of my standard 380 load and went to shoot it. it sucked, the load was not even strong enough to cycle the slide. and one bullet even got stuck in the barrel.
    strike 1 for the "roll caps"
    next i loaded 1 "roll cap" and then filled the primer cup with a strike anywhere match counpound, then loaded it in to a case, i did not have any reloaded primers go off while repriming a case. i went out and shoot this mix of "roll cap" and match powder, all rounds fired and it felt just like my normal load, using new sp primers.
    next i tried using 2 "roll caps" only in the primer cup, while setting the anvil some did go off. but after shooting the reloaded rounds it felt a bit lighter than normal but still worked properly.
    next will be just a mix of match head powder only.
    thats where im at right now.

  14. #74
    Boolit Master Desertbuck's Avatar
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    Nope still here I'm still working on it. But I have been working on other projects. I did get the hand at making Potassium chlorate from Bleach. You don't get much from it but you can make it yourself with stuff you can get at the store. Next I need some sulfur that's going to be the easy one. I want some Antimony Trisulphide but I think I might have to settle for aluminum powder. I will take a picture of my first reloaded primer and post it as soon as I make it. I'm having fun learning.
    THE GUN
    The gun has been praised.
    The gun has been denounced.
    The gun has played a critical role in History.
    The gun has been implemented for good.
    The gun has been abused for evil.
    With the gun comes a great moral responsibility!
    To better understand the gun is to better under stand History. And with the gun protect your future.
    D.B

  15. #75
    Boolit Master
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    I've been studying this too. The book / pdf from Dutchman has some very specific instructions on how to make a handfull of priming compounds and do it safely. All of those recipes are based on flash powders with some extra stuff added.

    The author categorizes each chemical as Fuel, Oxidizer, Sensitizer, etc. Another book I read has some of the same chemicals categorized differently but in these particular formulas there are two ingredients that make up a binary flash powder that is shock sensitive. Then there is an oxidizer-fuel combo that is ignited by the flash powder for more heat and sustained ignition.

    The author says that red phosphorus is a primary ingredient. Its the only ingredient I haven't been able to find available commercially in reasonable quantity or price. But that doesn't appear to be a major problem.

    Most of the author's recipes use Potassium Chlorate which results in a corrosive primer. One non-corrosive recipe uses Barium Nitrate instead but also uses Red Phosphorus which is inconvenient. I have not been able to find any good reason why potassium chlorate can't be substituted by barium nitrate in the author's recipe 4 which does not call for red phosphorus. This would be a very good, non-corrosive primer made from cheap & easy chemicals. It would need to be tested for proper sensitivity of course.

  16. #76
    Boolit Master ofitg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertbuck View Post
    I did get the hand at making Potassium chlorate from Bleach.
    Desertbuck, my hat is off to you! I tried to make KClO3 from bleach and I ended up just making a mess. I had better luck using an electrolysis rig to make KClO3 from potassium chloride.


    Quote Originally Posted by Desertbuck View Post
    I want some Antimony Trisulphide but I think I might have to settle for aluminum powder.
    A lot of Stibnite crystals are offered on Ebay..... or maybe you can find Stibnite specimens at a rock shop in your town.... ?

  17. #77
    Boolit Master
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    Search ebay for antimony trisulFide. Same thing different name. There's one seller in GB selling it crushed by the pound for a way better price then having to buy the crystals, even after shipping across the pond.
    Last edited by Oreo; 03-21-2013 at 12:32 AM.

  18. #78
    Boolit Master ofitg's Avatar
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    In a different thread, "Drhall762" reported that he ordered all three chemicals - potassium chlorate, sulfur, antimony sulfide - from this supplier -

    http://pyrochemsource.ecrater.com/

  19. #79
    Boolit Master uscra112's Avatar
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    The March 1943 issue of American Rifleman has some basics on how to make fulminate of mercury. I don't recommend anybody try it, based on what I saw. I enjoy the thought of a mass-market magazine giving details that would be relegated to the Anarchists Cookbook just 20 years later, and in wartime, too.
    So long, and thanks for all the fish.

  20. #80
    Boolit Master
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    http://www.hobbychemicalsupply.com
    http://www.skylighter.com/
    http://www.rollingthunderpyro.com/

    I've bought from both of the last two. It is best to buy the fuels from someone different than who you buy the oxidizers from. For example, ordering both PC and aluminum powder is consider by the gov that you are going to make illegal fireworks and your order won't be processed. The gov seems to be very willing to shut down the supplier of these chemicals.

    There are a few other chemical places to buy from also. I'll list a few more latter.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check