Graf & SonsLee PrecisionTitan ReloadingInline Fabrication
MidSouth Shooters SupplyStainLess Steel MediaRotoMetals2

Donate Now Goal amount for this year: 6000 USD, Received: 4840 USD (81%)
We have reached our goal! Thanks to all who donated! I will be updating the donation bar in the next few days!
Our Annual server fund drive is going on now! This donation drive helps fund Cast Boolits for an entire year, and helps support our 2nd amendment rights! You can donate by Paypal by clicking the DONATE button. Or by Cash / Check / MO to the address below:

Willy Snyder
PO Box 2732
Pocatello, ID 83206
****Due to overwhelming e-mails, I will be very slow in updating this list. Please bear with me!****


Page 29 of 31 FirstFirst ... 19202122232425262728293031 LastLast
Results 561 to 580 of 614

Thread: can you make priming compound?

  1. #561
    Boolit Master
    Traffer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Central Wisconisn
    Posts
    1,302
    Rodrigo,
    You really have something here. There are a lot of people, including myself who would love to be able to make those primers the way you do. Thank you very much for sharing. Once a person gets to the point of making everything else for reloading, the primers become the hardest, most expensive part of the operation. You have made a big advancement in the way we can do that now. Please continue to share with us your methods and processes.
    AKA hans.pcguy

  2. #562
    Boolit Master ofitg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    226
    Quote Originally Posted by RC View Post

    Is there any substitute for antimony sulfide?
    RC, thank you for sharing your work. Very Interesting!

    One of our forum members (named "Wicket") has made tin sulfide as a substitute for antimony sulfide.

    If you cannot buy antimony sulfide, you might visit a rock shop which sells mineral specimens. Antimony sulfide occurs in nature as a mineral called "Stibnite".
    Last edited by ofitg; 04-08-2018 at 07:57 PM.
    "Commerce with all nations, alliance with none, should be our motto."

    - Thomas Jefferson


  3. #563
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    202
    @RC,

    The main corrosive materials that are formed during firing of corrosive primers (depending upon the formulation) are phosphoric acid and its salts, sulfuric acid and its salts, sodium chloride, and potassium chloride. All these materials are water soluble and easily flushed from the barrel with water. Hot water works better because it not only dissolves the residues more easily, but it also warms the barrel so that it dries more quickly.

    Here is an easy method to make potassium chlorate using Calcium Hypochlorite (i.e. pool shock).

    Preparation (Procedure 1, using bleach powder)

    Required Chemicals:
    1200 g H.T.H (calcium hypochlorite 65%)
    220 g Potassium chloride (salt substitute)

    Description:
    In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite) is mixed with water and heated with potassium chloride (salt substitute). This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the ingredients. Here are the reactions:

    3 Ca(ClO)2 -> 2 CaCl2 + Ca(ClO3)2

    Ca(ClO3)2 + 2 KCl -> 2 KClO3 + CaCl2

    Procedure 1:
    In a large pyrex glass or enameled steel container place 1200 g H.T.H. (65% active, adjust for other active %s) and 220 g potassium chloride. Add enough boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance will be formed as the reactions proceed. When the formation of this chalky substance has stopped, the solution is filtered while boiling hot. The potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. Further concentration of the filtrate by boiling may allow another crop of crystals to be collected after cooling. The crude KClO3 can be easily recrystallized from hot water (1 part KClO3 to 3 parts water) to provide a very pure product.

    Regarding the role of each ingredient in H48:
    1. Potassium Chlorate is an oxidizer,
    2. Antimony Sulfide is both a fuel and frictionator,
    3. Sulfur is a fuel, and
    4. Ground glass is a frictionator,

    If these terms do not make sense to you, search out and read some of the references mentioned in this thread to get a better understanding.

    Enjoy,
    Marshall
    Last edited by Marshall; 04-06-2018 at 06:15 PM. Reason: Added active % of calcium hypochlorite

  4. #564
    ......
    Last edited by rodrigocirilo; 11-16-2017 at 06:36 AM.

  5. #565
    ......
    Last edited by rodrigocirilo; 11-16-2017 at 06:36 AM.

  6. #566
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    202
    @RC,

    Quote Originally Posted by RC View Post
    Ok I understood the recipe ... the calcium hypochlorite I find it easy here, the potassium chloride I think can be used light salt sold in markets ..


    Can crystals of potassium chlorate be ground without risk of explosion?

    a mixture of potassium chlorate, sulfur and ground glass would work? exuding the antimony sulfide?

    although it works fine, how could I improve the match mix I currently use? adding sulfur for example. For in the box says that the composition is potassium chlorate and binders (and the phosphorus contained on the side of the box)

    would it "recrystallize" or "purify" the potassium chlorate contained in match sticks?
    BTW, you could easily reduce the scale of the calcium hypochlorite reaction to 1/4 and still end up with plenty of potassium chlorate to make H48 compound.

    I don't know if light salt is potassium chloride or not, but if it is you should be good. A much cheaper source of potassium chloride is water softener salt. You may be able to get a 40 lb bag for only ~$25 (or your currency equivalent). Just make sure it is potassium chloride and not the more common sodium chloride.

    Potassium chlorate can be safely ground "by itself" in a clean non-porous container. It is a powerful oxidizer and the presence of any "fuel" even in trace amounts could cause a serious explosion.

    Because potassium chlorate mixtures with fuels can be very sensitive, I do not recommend any significant deviation from the original H-48 formula. As ofitg mentioned in a previous post, tin sulfide can be substituted for antimony sulfide, but leaving it out could give you a mixture that explodes unexpected when lightly touched.

    I have no recommendations on how to improve your match mix since we don't know its formula. Instead, concentrate on making well known and well behaved primer mixtures like H-48. You will pleased with its effectiveness and power.

    Marshall
    Last edited by Marshall; 04-06-2018 at 06:16 PM.

  7. #567
    ........
    Last edited by rodrigocirilo; 11-16-2017 at 06:33 AM.

  8. #568
    Boolit Master
    Traffer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Central Wisconisn
    Posts
    1,302
    For anyone out there who wants to know how to extract priming compound from toy caps, I made this video. Keep in mind that this primer is corrosive. Also keep in mind that when it is dry it is extremely sensitive. I have had this stuff go off when scraping it on paper with a playing card. Never use it in batches bigger than you are willing to have go off in your face.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/8i6wn72tqr...00001.MP4?dl=0
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Legends compressed.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	45.5 KB 
ID:	208249
    Last edited by Traffer; 11-22-2017 at 08:17 AM.
    AKA hans.pcguy

  9. #569
    Boolit Master
    Traffer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Central Wisconisn
    Posts
    1,302
    I am going to try and document the different processes of reloading 22 LR that I use. Here is a video of filing aluminum powder from a computer hard drive. I also describe how I use the powder in the reloading process.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/k2y4h3lxjk...owder.MP4?dl=0
    I want to apologize for this video being cut off here. I didn't realize it would make you download it to see the whole thing. But if you do download it it will show you the last 1/4 or so of the video. Which has the more important part of the video on it anyway. I will edit this video soon. But now I am waiting for a new motherboard for my computer, because it died yesterday. (I am using my laptop in the mean time)
    Last edited by Traffer; 11-28-2017 at 12:58 AM.
    AKA hans.pcguy

  10. #570
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    391
    Traffer - GONRA's pretty sure "toy caps" are red phoshorus
    (maybe with a little Sulfur seeking better shelf life)
    and Potassium Chlorate (some gum binder added).
    WAY too sensitive to "scrape off" and fool around with....
    Last edited by GONRA; 11-28-2017 at 06:45 PM.

  11. #571
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Northern Wisconsin
    Posts
    215
    Being wet like Traffer's doing, he should be OK... right? Now that I see how he is doing it, it makes much more sense to me. I have a bunch of roll caps, but I have even more H48 mix!

  12. #572
    Boolit Master Bert2368's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Blasted hellish frozen northern wastelands, AKA Minnesota
    Posts
    490
    Quote Originally Posted by Marshall View Post
    @All,

    I have recently undertaken to create a searchable text version of Albert and Oelberg's "Primers for Small Arms Cartridges" book that they published during WW2. If you would like a copy, it is available for free at the following link.

    http://www.aardvarkreloading.com/res...%20Oelberg.pdf
    Thank you kindly for providing that!

    On the last page, the authors give instructions for ordering Vol. 2 of the series, covering the making of the metal primer components and the tooling to do so. Dies, punches, cups, anvils... For $.25 - Cheap! (I do miss Mad Magazine).

    Do any know if the sequel was written? If so, is it available anywhere...

    I don't think I would ever be doing this, but I'd certainly like to know what the authors came up with.
    "Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away."

  13. #573
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    202
    @Bert2368,

    Quote Originally Posted by Bert2368 View Post
    Thank you kindly for providing that!

    On the last page, the authors give instructions for ordering Vol. 2 of the series, covering the making of the metal primer components and the tooling to do so. Dies, punches, cups, anvils... For $.25 - Cheap! (I do miss Mad Magazine).

    Do any know if the sequel was written? If so, is it available anywhere...

    I don't think I would ever be doing this, but I'd certainly like to know what the authors came up with.
    You and the rest of the board are quite welcome as this was an effort to preserve a historical resource in a searchable format. My searches for the 2cd edition and for the missing chapter information have not been fruitful. These books are probably sitting in someone's reloading manual collection unused for decades and collecting dust. Do you have any suggestions on where to search?

    Marshall

  14. #574
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    brisbane ,qld,australia
    Posts
    503
    Im a bit OT,but I would like to know the final steps for a melted sugar powder.Grain size?.....can it be used as a tablet in say a 45/70 size case,or does it need to be granulated.......what size granules.......and finally,is the stuff touchy?........The only local advice is to test in a strong gun......The holy black is nice,but this stuff is so simple to make,clean too,it seems very attractive.

  15. #575
    Boolit Master ofitg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    226
    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    Im a bit OT,but I would like to know the final steps for a melted sugar powder.Grain size?.....can it be used as a tablet in say a 45/70 size case,or does it need to be granulated.......what size granules.......and finally,is the stuff touchy?........The only local advice is to test in a strong gun......The holy black is nice,but this stuff is so simple to make,clean too,it seems very attractive.
    John.k, for what it's worth, I have heard about one type of sugar-based blackpowder substitute which was actually available commercially (a few years ago in South Africa) - called Sannadex.

    http://www.whitesmoke.co.za/powwow/v...0a4ba2a0e335f4

    Reported to be 63% KNO3, 35% Sugar (sucrose or dextrose), and 2% Iron Oxide.
    The factory milled the dry ingredients to 150-250 microns in size, then incorporated them by heating to 130-150 degrees Celcius for some unspecified period of time.

    You might want to research Sannadex - it sounds like it was sold in granulated form, not tablets/pellets.
    "Commerce with all nations, alliance with none, should be our motto."

    - Thomas Jefferson


  16. #576
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    brisbane ,qld,australia
    Posts
    503
    Thanks,Offtig,but for preference i dont want to go to additives,especially in the 2% range that would require very thorough mixing.I may also sound a bit vague,just remember we dont all live in the land of the free.Back a few years in this thread,users report success using black as a booster,and as I intend to use fixed ammo,I dont see this as necessary........but i would like to get some idea of a grain size ,be real handy if i could use discs or tablets........the stuff is soft when hot,and easily formed ,but is sticky by nature,and so smaller granulation may present a problem in processing.

  17. #577
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    202
    @john.k,

    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    Thanks,Offtig,but for preference i dont want to go to additives,especially in the 2% range that would require very thorough mixing.I may also sound a bit vague,just remember we dont all live in the land of the free.Back a few years in this thread,users report success using black as a booster,and as I intend to use fixed ammo,I dont see this as necessary........but i would like to get some idea of a grain size ,be real handy if i could use discs or tablets........the stuff is soft when hot,and easily formed ,but is sticky by nature,and so smaller granulation may present a problem in processing.
    The 2% iron oxide was not included in the formula to just be an aggravating complication. This material acts as a catalyst in these types of powder formulations and adjusts the burn rate to what is needed to work correctly in the targeted calibers/rounds. Leaving it out is of course possible, but the results may not be satisfactory in your particular round. In fact, you may find that more (or less) iron oxide is best when the powder is used in a 45/70 round. From my reading on these powder substitutes, the material is typically granulated and sieved to the standard 2F or 3F size ranges. In your case, the 2F range is probably best. To use discs or tablets made of this powder, you will be trailblazing a new path. One, that we all would be very interested in hearing about when you have finished your tests.

    Marshall

  18. #578
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    brisbane ,qld,australia
    Posts
    503
    OK,thanks ,I will get some reagent grade before using the stuff in a gun.......Ive used up all the first lot amusing the kids,young and old.Im pretty sure there is relevant info here from about 3, or 4 years ago.Just needs to be found.Need to get a remote heating and stirring plant operational,located where any flare will go unnoticed.

  19. #579
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    northeastern washington
    Posts
    229
    Traffer, Marshall and others, hope we are just busy with other things and this thread has not died. Been very informative and would be handier I think in the future if some one could condense the important parts to make the reading easier, also this could be done with the black powder thread that is now at 100+ pages. Just my $.02 worth.
    Shaune509

  20. #580
    Boolit Master
    Traffer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Central Wisconisn
    Posts
    1,302
    I am still at it, but had to quit for a while with health issues and moving to new apartment and, the garage that I worked in (unheated) had the power burn out. The last couple of weeks I have reworked a collet crimping die yet again. This time to support the side walls while crimping. The results are by far the best yet. I am able to crimp them consistently from 45lbs to 55lbs to pull the bullets. This heavy and consistent crimp is necessary in a 22 rimfire with modern powder because the pressure has to be contained as the primer ignites the powder. If the initiation pressure is not created the powder does not burn well at all. To the point of getting click-bangs with very low velocity. The other project I have been working on is again reworking the swaging dies. I have an idea for a better die but still using my old style dies which end up deforming after a hundred or so swages. It causes a situation where I have to remove the die and deburr the joint where the two dies join. I have a batch of 22lr made up that are very consistent in size, weight, crimp, primer and load. I am hoping for some good accuracy from these. As far as the primer goes, I believe Marshall has been very successful in both developing the primers and the application of the primer. But I will let him address that.
    My contribution to the process of reloading 22lr is more in the bullet. The hours spent developing a successful swaging is finally paying off. I am hoping that my next generation of dies will not need to be constantly tweaked as I use them. The new design, plus heat treating the dies should yield dies that others can use without the hassles that are involved at this time. Here is a picture of my latest swaged bullets. These are 40 grain 22lr bullets at about 11-12 bhn. There is a factory round in the picture for reference. These are powder coated with Smoke's clear.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SwagedClearPC.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	46.7 KB 
ID:	216304
    Last edited by Traffer; 03-13-2018 at 03:35 AM.
    AKA hans.pcguy

Page 29 of 31 FirstFirst ... 19202122232425262728293031 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check