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Thread: can you make priming compound?

  1. #521
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    On "Squirt Back" I'd put a dam in the way, or a fender washer to redirect the water outwards? Should do it.

  2. #522
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    I watched the video. It looks good but there are a lot of problems with this you don't see. Look down at the comments and you begin to see. Most berdan primers (military) are really stuck in there. Sealed and crimped. The piston in the case neck often bulges the case before the primer comes out. I agree that this is getting off the rail as far as priming is done. Maybe we can cover this better if you e-mail me. I do have this worked out. No case damage and no cup damage.
    n.h.schmidt

  3. #523
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    Quote Originally Posted by n.h.schmidt View Post
    I watched the video. It looks good but there are a lot of problems with this you don't see. Look down at the comments and you begin to see. Most berdan primers (military) are really stuck in there. Sealed and crimped. The piston in the case neck often bulges the case before the primer comes out. I agree that this is getting off the rail as far as priming is done. Maybe we can cover this better if you e-mail me. I do have this worked out. No case damage and no cup damage.
    n.h.schmidt
    As long as we are talking about primers on the priming thread it is fine to discuss methods of removal. I just get carried away with explaining my methods and should edit first instead of throwing thoughts out there. I'm sure others would like to know about your experience of removing these primers. The more you speak of it the more people get into it. That is a good thing.
    My initial thinking was to use a double tipped extraction pin set up. That would be relatively easy. But if these cases have multiple flash hole configurations...that may make it difficult. I need to be learning more about this stuff before offering my opinions, I guess. But I like to get a conversation going and for me. even spouting out off the cuff at least get's people interested. Hah.

  4. #524
    Boolit Buddy
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    Traffer and Marshall Many water type methods work at least sometimes. I have settled on this type. Its a tube six inches long .Almost 3/4" dia and drilled with a 9/16" drill. Drilled to a 1/2" short of all the way through. The bottom is squared off with a drill ground flat. The solid bottom is then drilled out to 1/4". The plunger is a grade three 9/16" bolt with the threads cut off so it's 4" long. Two O rings are on the end. A 9/16" bolt is always smaller than a true 9/16" ,that's why the O rings. In use the tube is held underwater and a case dropped in and the plunger inserted just a little way. The tube is then held on a firm surface and the plunger hit with a hammer. There is little leakage ,air pressure holds the water in. This way the most stubborn primers pop. They can be saved for reuse. This size tube will work for most military sized cases 303 to 3006 to Mauser. Smaller setups will be better for many pistol cases and small rifle sizes. If you want to see something Look up David A Cushman
    Hydraulic Decapping Whamadet. This is a way overbuilt but way cool device. I have pictures on my other computer of my setup.
    n.h.schmidt

  5. #525
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    @ n.h.schmidt
    This sounds great. Thanks. Far more refined that my idea. Saved me a ton of experimentation. Thanks. Couple of questions:
    What is the tube made out of. And does the base of the shell casing seal to the bottom of the tube well enough without another O ring on the bottom?
    I have a picture in my mind of modifying an old pneumatic door closer which would make quick work of the whole build.
    Now I wish I had more Berdan primed cases. If you consider the cost of primers, it is worth using reprimed Berdan instead.
    Last edited by Traffer; 09-23-2018 at 09:19 AM.

  6. #526
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    I just read the page you suggested, "David A Cushman Hydraulic Decapping Whamadet". I wonder if it would be against any rules or laws to link it here?

  7. #527
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    I doubt it would be a problem. I think that is years old and of little interest now. The tube is made of SS but, any plain steel will do for the tube. I have found that the plunger needs to be fairly hard or it will expand. Rust is no problem if you just dry it all off and spray with WD40 or something. You almost have to have a lathe to make this. If you can find thick walled tubing with a smooth inner surface,there is a way to work with that.
    n.h.schmidt

  8. #528
    Boolit Buddy
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    Pic of Decapping tool

    Attachment 227635 I Hope this works

  9. #529
    Boolit Buddy
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    I did not answer you about how the case seals. It is just gravity holding the case on the bottom. Remember with the plunger in the top air pressure keeps it from leaking. Also the sudden pressure rush
    seals it solid until the primer pops. The seal is good enough that you can hit the plunger a bunch of times until it pops. Only the first time crimped and sealed primers are tough. The ones you loaded will come out easily. Even using a plastic hammer.
    n.h.schmidt

  10. #530
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    OK, I drew a picture of what I think this decapper looks like in a bucket of water with a case inside ready to be smacked with a hammer. Let me know if there are errors.
    Attachment 227663
    P.S. I don't think you would need the seals if the plunger was a tight fit and both surfaces polished well. But I have been know to be wrong before.
    Last edited by Traffer; 09-23-2018 at 08:53 PM.

  11. #531
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    You have it mostly right. With the plunger inserted you can take the tube out of the bucket. Air pressure will prevent the water from leaking out. Set tube on a solid surface and wack it. I got tired of missing and made a holder to save my hand. A close fit plunger can work but will leak and spray you when you use it. Also you only get one try without refilling the tube. The o ring seal is easier to make than close slip fit steel plunger.
    n.h.schmidt

  12. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by n.h.schmidt View Post
    You have it mostly right. With the plunger inserted you can take the tube out of the bucket. Air pressure will prevent the water from leaking out. Set tube on a solid surface and wack it. I got tired of missing and made a holder to save my hand. A close fit plunger can work but will leak and spray you when you use it. Also you only get one try without refilling the tube. The o ring seal is easier to make than close slip fit steel plunger.
    n.h.schmidt
    OK, I think that I fully understand now. I'm glad to be having this discussion publicly for the sake of others who may wish to make this rig. I don't need one of these at this time and since you have successfully made them, this is for the benefit of those others who are reading and wish to do this technique. It seems with what I have learned about fabricating on the lathe (or even a drill press) that these are pretty easy to make. If anyone is struggling to make this, I will help out otherwise I will leave it until I may need this in the future.

  13. #533
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    It seams that there is little interest in this. Most will go for the other ways no matter if it works or not.
    Remember how hard it is to get others to understand how to lift the dots off the role caps. Easy to do and vastly better than punching the dots out with a paper punch. I used to do it that way too.Your way is better and results in a lot of power.
    To Marshall and others who make their own primer cups. Have you considered using aluminum? Or thin steel? Much cheaper and could work. The aluminum could work for low pressure target loads. I have seen steel primers in French pistol rounds. I'm interested in the 1/4" size for russian and many 303 enfield cases. The 303 cases would be a problem because of very heavy ring crimps.
    Just wondering
    n.h.schmidt

  14. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by n.h.schmidt View Post
    It seams that there is little interest in this. Most will go for the other ways no matter if it works or not.
    Remember how hard it is to get others to understand how to lift the dots off the role caps. Easy to do and vastly better than punching the dots out with a paper punch. I used to do it that way too.Your way is better and results in a lot of power.
    To Marshall and others who make their own primer cups. Have you considered using aluminum? Or thin steel? Much cheaper and could work. The aluminum could work for low pressure target loads. I have seen steel primers in French pistol rounds. I'm interested in the 1/4" size for russian and many 303 enfield cases. The 303 cases would be a problem because of very heavy ring crimps.
    Just wondering
    n.h.schmidt
    A lot of people read but don't post. Don't worry this will help folks...It will stay for years also.

  15. #535
    Boolit Master



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    I've been one of those "readers" for a long time in this thread, I've long known the correct way to hydraulically deprime is for the case to be entirely submersed in water with the primer exposed to atmospheric pressure! I've use the case-full bang it with a hammer method, works sometimes but I've also completely blown out the shoulders of stubborn Soviet caliber cases. I'd love to be able to construct a device on this principle, besides, Berdan primers should be much simpler to make since you don't have to deal with that pesky primer!

  16. #536
    Boolit Buddy
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    Welcome Trooperdan If you really want we can find some way to get you one of these. If it is made big enough for the Russian cases ,then it will be oversize for the smaller mauser size cases. It is easily possible to sleeve the smaller cases . That way they will still be centered in the tube. Here is a way to make the military primer pop easily. Simply push the primer in a ways first. Then give it a wack. Pushing it in breaks the seal. I you don't care about saving the cup push it in at a angle. Man they go easily after that.
    Maybe I should start to offer these for sale.
    n.h.schmidt

  17. #537
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    @ Ned
    Could a person make a collet type holder with "fingers" about the size of bobby pins that would hold any sized case centered?

  18. #538
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    i am sort of stumped here why would you want to make primers ? in the event that they were banned i am sure that what you make the primer compound would also be banned . if you stocked up on what you need wouldn't it be easier to just stock up on primers. a lot of the compounds that people come up with are corosive
    i thought about black powder but then you have to haul the powder and bullets and either caps or different powder for the pan. i really think that that is how they will ban guns. i have guns well over 100 years old that i shoot regularly. how many want to pull the trigger on ammo that over 100 years old?

  19. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by RED BEAR View Post
    i am sort of stumped here why would you want to make primers ? in the event that they were banned i am sure that what you make the primer compound would also be banned . if you stocked up on what you need wouldn't it be easier to just stock up on primers. a lot of the compounds that people come up with are corosive
    i thought about black powder but then you have to haul the powder and bullets and either caps or different powder for the pan. i really think that that is how they will ban guns. i have guns well over 100 years old that i shoot regularly. how many want to pull the trigger on ammo that over 100 years old?
    There are answers to most of your questions at various places in this thread. Marshall has come up with several priming compounds that are non-corrosive and actually work as well if not better than the commercial stuff.
    Why reload primers? I guess all of have our reasons. Mine is MOSTLY that I'm cheap. 4 cents per primer for me means reload my own. And if enough people did it, the manufacturers would have competition which would keep their pricing honest.
    I guess for most though, it's a matter of not being dependent on the possible government infringements of our rights to keep and bear arms.
    Besides that there is just the idea of doing it because of the challenge.
    I started out by trying to reload 22lr when I couldn't find any in the stores. Now I am hoping to make 22lr match grade ammp. Maybe even compete with the best available someday.

  20. #540
    Boolit Buddy ofitg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Traffer View Post
    I guess for most though, it's a matter of not being dependent on the possible government infringements of our rights to keep and bear arms.
    I favor the old H-48 and FH-42 mixtures because of their simplicity and the availability of ingredients. I am not a chemist by any means, but I have learned how to synthesize potassium chlorate from a common, innocuous over-the-counter product (potassium chloride).
    Antimony Sulfide is just powdered Stibnite, a naturally-occurring mineral. Can the government ban rocks? A one-ounce Stibnite crystal could yield thousands of primers.

    Sulfur is available from a variety of retailers and is used for a variety of purposes.
    It's hard to imagine that Sulfur would be banned..... but just for fun, perhaps Marshall could weigh in on this - is there a convenient way to extract Sulfur from commercial products, or from naturally-occurring sources?
    "Commerce with all nations, alliance with none, should be our motto."

    - Thomas Jefferson


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check