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Thread: can you make priming compound?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    If you can get or make red phosphorous, an easy non-corrosive can be made with it an barium nitrate. The US military used it for a while, but it has a short shelf life.

    Also there is a chem you can get easily that will work for an easy non-corrosive, but it works only in Berdan primers. One maybe be able to use a 2 step cup reloading process that would work in Boxer cups.

    Currently, I'm looking at a couple of different things for non-corrosives. One being sulfur nitride, as it can be made from what is available in any town USA. Grocery store and hardware store.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Almost forget. Get the book "Ammunition Making" by G. Frost. It was a NRA published book. It is out of print and copies are somewhat expensive. The last one I saw was $250( glad I bought 2 for $15 each in the 90's). But, there are online versions to download around. This book will give you the details of how to make what we buy now. A very well written book that is easy to understand.

    I covers everything that one would need to know to run a commercial ammo factory. Like making cases, primer cups, primer anvils, shotgun shell cases, etc. It doesn't cover making powder or picking powder and only says to leave that to the powder companies. It was written to be the general tech manual for the ammo factory in the Philippines, whose name escapes me right now.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I went to Amazon Book search and found six copys for $149.95 EACH.
    My favorite that usually always comes thru with low prices, Abebooks.com had none!
    Jack
    "'Necesity' is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of Tyrants: it is the creed of slaves."
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master Desertbuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutchman View Post
    If there's any interest I can burn up a batch of CD of this:

    $15 delivered U.S. only. Sold a bunch of these in this forum in 2008.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rt-amp-Oelberg
    Hay Duchman I would like a copy!

    This is just what I'm looking for.
    THE GUN
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  5. #25
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    Sign me up Dutchman, I'd like a little reading material!!!

  6. #26
    Boolit Master

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    PM sent, thanks.

    Dutch

  7. #27
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    Flint and steel with homemade grades of pan and main charge powder have worked for hundreds of years.

    Anybody mess with electronic ignition? THAT would solve a lot of problems.

    Gear

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Desertbuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by perotter View Post
    Currently, I'm looking at a couple of different things for non-corrosives. One being sulfur nitride, as it can be made from what is available in any town USA. Grocery store and hardware store.
    Can you explain more? I looked up sulfur nitride and got Polythiazyl. It says it used in LED lights, transistors, battery cathodes and solar cells.
    THE GUN
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  9. #29
    Boolit Man
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    In younger days,reworked shotgun primers using strike anywhere match heads,used them for blackpowder,not difficult. I do remember that dud firecrackers powder would detonate if struck with hammer, never explored its use in priming. Be careful this kind of stuff is liable to put your eye out!!lreed

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Skipper's Avatar
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    Can you explain more? I looked up sulfur nitride and got Polythiazyl. It says it used in LED lights, transistors, battery cathodes and solar cells.
    Tetrasulfur tetranitride:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrasulfur_tetranitride

    http://energetic.proboards.com/index...splay&thread=9

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Desertbuck's Avatar
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    Making that stuff is WAY on the toxic side for me.
    Making Red phosphorus and Potassium Chlorate looks to be more simply doable. Still toxic but not to that extreme. Good to know though.
    THE GUN
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    D.B

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    I have only one purpose learning how to make primer formulas ...
    I reload and shoot 22 LR empty primed cases with black powder. Those of us that do call it 'Stepping Back into Time'
    Many of my fellow BPR shooters want to follow suit but empty primed cases cannot be had anymore. So I can provide formulas that will allow them to use spent 22 brass and enjoy shooting 22 LR BP reloads

    BTW - best shot string with no decrease in accuracy is 105 rounds, 50 and 100yds. Most efficient powder to use is Swiss Null-B. The bullets I and a few others use are from a custom David Mos mold that is the duplicate of the old UMC match bullet
    Last edited by John Boy; 02-06-2013 at 02:52 PM.
    Regards
    John

  13. #33
    Boolit Master ofitg's Avatar
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    This is one of the recipes from Tenney Davis's book, Chemistry of Powder & Explosives -

    Potassium Chlorate..................................... 50.54%
    Antimony Sulfide........................................ 26.31%
    Sulfur .................................................. ..... 8.76%
    Ground glass ............................................. 12.39%
    Shellac .................................................. ... 2.00%

    I've tried it, and it works. Mix it wet with alcohol, not water. The formula can be juggled to include one or two percent of Sodium Bicarbonate - this will extend the shelf life, especially in humid environments.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by ofitg View Post
    This is one of the recipes from Tenney Davis's book, Chemistry of Powder & Explosives -

    Potassium Chlorate..................................... 50.54%
    Antimony Sulfide........................................ 26.31%
    Sulfur .................................................. ..... 8.76%
    Ground glass ............................................. 12.39%
    Shellac .................................................. ... 2.00%

    I've tried it, and it works. Mix it wet with alcohol, not water. The formula can be juggled to include one or two percent of Sodium Bicarbonate - this will extend the shelf life, especially in humid environments.
    I'd have to look it up, but I think that one is what was used by the US Army for the 30/40 Krag.

    I'll try to check tonight. I also have 2 other ones that are easy. One is what was used for the 30/06 until some time during WW1.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Desertbuck View Post
    Making Red phosphorus and Potassium Chlorate looks to be more simply doable. Still toxic but not to that extreme.
    That would still be corrosive. Also it is extremely dangerous to do. It is a contact explosive. If you can get RP, use barium nitrate(for example) instead of PC. To mix RP and PC is NEVER TO BE DONE dry. All the primers in the world are worthless to ones self, if they are dead or don't have hands to hold a gun.

    RP and PC is also to sensitive to pass industry standard tests for sensitivity.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master Desertbuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ofitg View Post
    This is one of the recipes from Tenney Davis's book, Chemistry of Powder & Explosives -

    Potassium Chlorate..................................... 50.54%
    Antimony Sulfide........................................ 26.31%
    Sulfur .................................................. ..... 8.76%
    Ground glass ............................................. 12.39%
    Shellac .................................................. ... 2.00%

    I've tried it, and it works. Mix it wet with alcohol, not water. The formula can be juggled to include one or two percent of Sodium Bicarbonate - this will extend the shelf life, especially in humid environments.

    Finding Lead Nitrate, Antimony Sulfide is what I'm finding is the hardest chemicals to find. Lead Nitrate being the most difficult.
    But the recipe Potassium Chlorate,Antimony Sulfide,Sulfur,Ground glass & Shellac look's to be one that I could make. I will give it a try AFTER I read and absorb sufficient information to do this safely as possible and confidently.
    THE GUN
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  17. #37
    Boolit Master Desertbuck's Avatar
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    chemicals
    Quote Originally Posted by perotter View Post
    That would still be corrosive. Also it is extremely dangerous to do. It is a contact explosive. If you can get RP, use barium nitrate(for example) instead of PC. To mix RP and PC is NEVER TO BE DONE dry. All the primers in the world are worthless to ones self, if they are dead or don't have hands to hold a gun.

    RP and PC is also to sensitive to pass industry standard tests for sensitivity.
    Sorry perotter I was working on my last post when you posted.

    OH! no no I did not mean that I plan on mixing just the two as a %50 %50 mix HECK NO! Just there the easiest chemicals to make that's all. From what I'm finding I will never use RP & PC together in any of the mixes I make! I prefer to keep my feet in my shoes.
    Last edited by Desertbuck; 02-05-2013 at 07:43 PM.
    THE GUN
    The gun has been praised.
    The gun has been denounced.
    The gun has played a critical role in History.
    The gun has been implemented for good.
    The gun has been abused for evil.
    With the gun comes a great moral responsibility!
    To better understand the gun is to better under stand History. And with the gun protect your future.
    D.B

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    No need to be sorry. I just don't want anyone to get hurt.

    Source patent 2,194,480

    Red phosphorous 25
    Barium Nitrate 58
    Antimony Sulfide 17

    RP 5-25
    BN 40-70
    AS 10-25

    This is a non-corrosive. I've never tested it, but it is similar/same to the P4 primer that the US military used for a while in the 1940's

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    FA-42

    Potassium chlorate 47.20%
    Antimony Sulfide 30.83%
    Sulfur 21.97%

    This is primer that was used in the 30/06 until sometime during WW1. It works very well. The "in basement" test for dampness was over at 18 months, but that was because I had used all of that batch up. You might want to add 1% baking soda.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
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    Tested Ron Brown's modified. This is more of hot spark primer. Should be a good all around.

    Dry. Small pistol cup. Filled cup & pack(this is called 1/2 cup). Filled cup again & packed(this is called 3/4 cup). 1/2 cup did work each time. The amount of mix for 1/2 was 0.3 grains. The 3/4 did work each time. The amount of mix for 3/4 was 0.5 grains. When fired in the pistol, the flame from the end of the pistol was about the same as CCI small pistol.

    Chem %weight by volume
    Potassium chlorate 46.6% 3
    Sulfur 19.41% 2
    Grit* 33.98% 1.5

    Add 1% baking soda to this mix.

    * The grit I used was 4030 sandblasting sand. Just measured it out. I think this is to a little course. I also, think one could use less of it.

    1. Measure out 2 volumes of sulfur and put it on a sheet of paper. Crush out any lumps.
    2. Measure out 1 1/2 volumes of fine sand. Add this to the sulfur.
    3. Pour the above back & forth between 2 sheets of paper 10 to 20 times.
    4. Beside this pile of mix, measure out 3 volumes of potassium chlorate. Crush out any lumps.
    5. Combine it all together.
    6. Pour it back & forth between 2 sheets of paper until your very bored. 20 to 30 times for me.
    7. Reload primers.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check