can you make priming compound?

[Duckdog]

I'm thinking the grey stuff is very, very, fine sand that will replace the crushed glass. I bought a couple of those kits before I knew how easy it is to get the H48 components I'm still using my first one yet and I make percussion caps as well with my tap o cap!

Traffer, I also used the roll caps and I had a lot of problems setting the mix off by accident. So, I found the recipe and started the H48 mix and I will not look back. Honestly, it is much, much, easier and cheaper, too. I bought all of the components from one distributor. If you want, PM me and I'll fill ya in.

I made a little scooper out of a small pistol primer that I soldered on a piece of stiff wire that gives the perfect amount for a primer, 22 LR, or a percussion cap.

Traffer, you are one of the handiest guys I see posting on this 22 reloading subject, so I would really hate to see you stop posting. Hell, most guys think we're fools for doing it, anyway, so it would bite to loose the input of one of us who are messing with it!

[Traffer]

Yay! Thanks Marshall. Now where can I get these chemicals?

[Duckdog]

I was wondering that, too! Pretty interesting stuff, though.

[Traffer]

Sorry that I ask many of the same questions over and over. This stuff really does boggle my mind. As far as chemistry is concerned I am about at the "follow a recipe" on the back of a cake box level. You are my one and only chemist friend. Would you like to swing by some day and do a week or so of demonstrations for me? lol.
I am truly grateful that you share your expertise with us here. I think it is great that someone takes the time to do things like "reloading center fire primers" who is willing to teach the rest of us. I was looking at a Berdan primer earlier today and said to myself "I bet Marshall has reloaded Berdan primers before".

@Traffer, @Duckdog,

I have a list of chemical suppliers in my Homemade Primer Manual that was referenced in the previous page of this thread. But, remember that you will not be able to buy styphnic acid and tetrazene. You must synthesize these yourself. Methods for making these chemicals are included in the manual. The main starting material for styphnic acid is resorcinol which can be purchased from "Elemental Scientific". The main starting material for tetrazene is aminoguanidine bicarbonate which can be purchased from "Santa Cruz Biotech", however, they will require you purchase it under a business name and ship to a business address. Aminoguanidine can be directly synthesized from nitroguanidine which itself can be made from guanidine nitrate. Fortunately, guanidine nitrate can be readily purchased from "Pyro Chem Source" for $8/lb.

Hey, you guys asked. It is not difficult to make any of these chemicals, but it can be hazardous if you don't do it in a well ventilated area. Some mixtures you must workup are extremely acidic and corrosive. As a chemist, I love this stuff and know exactly how to do it safely (and have the required laboratory equipment to do it right). If you are not a chemist, you should find a chemist friend to consult with and get pointers on how to do these reactions safely and efficiently. Good luck in your efforts.

Marshall

[Duckdog]

Thanks for the info! I think I'll stick with the old reliable H48 and just clean my gun when I get done shooting. I am definitely not ready to synthesize those components, but it is nice to know it can be done.

[Tracy]

I am truly grateful that you share your expertise with us here. I think it is great that someone takes the time to do things like "reloading center fire primers" who is willing to teach the rest of us.

Same here. Thanks, Marshall!

[Bert2368]

FYI: For the chemically inclined, there is a RATHER large thread on a chemistry forum on DDNP and related compounds (a constituent of some of the newer non Lead comtaining primes).

https://www.sciencemadness.org/whisp...ad.php?tid=439

NOT for amateurs! Flame sensitive high explosive, toxic and corrosive chemicals a plenty. But fascinating, mostly the work has been done with common over the counter chemicals or home synthesized ones and pretty minimal lab equipment.

[Traffer]

Makes me wish I would have studied chemistry when I was young. I opted for drinking and carousing and now I am old, broke and lament my lack of knowledge.

FYI: For the chemically inclined, there is a RATHER large thread on a chemistry forum on DDNP and related compounds (a constituent of some of the newer non Lead comtaining primes).

https://www.sciencemadness.org/whisp...ad.php?tid=439

NOT for amateurs! Flame sensitive high explosive, toxic and corrosive chemicals a plenty. But fascinating, mostly the work has been done with common over the counter chemicals or home synthesized ones and pretty minimal lab equipment.

[jdfoxinc]

I just purchased a prime-all kit from 22lr reloader. It contains 4 packets of powders. One is obviously sulfer. You mix these as instructed fill the primer level and drop 1 drop of acetone or denatured Eton or rubbing (isopropyl) alchol let stand for 5 min. Then use wooden packing stick (match stick, bamboo chopstick, etc.) to firmly pack paste place anvil and allow to dry for 24 hrs. Enough chem. For 2000 so or percussion caps. $20.00. I want to know what chem. These are I am sure they can be purchased for a lot less individually. Any ideas?

[ofitg]

jdfoxinc, I believe those four packets contain -

378 grains of potassium chlorate (bag labeled L2)
292 grains of antimony sulfide (bag labeled L)
172 grains of sulfur (bag labeled S)
78 grains of dried shellac granules (the other bag labeled S)

The quantities probably represent the desired proportions (by weight) for the primer mixture -
　
41% potassium chlorate
32% antimony sulfide
19% sulfur
8% shellac
　
This is similar to the FH42 primer mixture used by the U.S. Army prior to WW1, except the FH42 mixture did not include shellac.

Yes, you can buy these chemicals MUCH cheaper.

I might suggest a couple of things regarding that kit's instructions.... first, you will probably want to grind the potassium chlorate to get the clumps out of it. Grind it SEPARATELY from the other ingredients; DO NOT grind the chemicals after they are mixed together.
Second, I might suggest that your caps should be sealed off from the surrounding air after you add the solvent (eg, acetone) - you can do that with a rubber band and Saran Wrap -



Give the solvent several hours hours to dissolve the shellac granules, then remove the Saran Wrap and let the solvent evaporate away.

...

[jdfoxinc]

Thank you. When I buy the chemicals I will just use shellac thined with isopropyl alcohol so disolving solid shellac is not a problemm

[ofitg]

jdfoxinc, you might also be interested in a potassium chlorate/antimony sulfide/sulfur mixture presented on page 456 of Davis's book, Chemistry of Powder & Explosives -

http://library.sciencemadness.org/li...explosives.pdf

It includes shellac and ground glass, and Davis explains that it's a good idea to add a little anti-acid (eg, sodium bicarbonate) to extend the shelf life, especially in humid environments.

[jdfoxinc]

So Fh42 and Fh48. Each time I download that .per it comes up with scrambled text.

[ofitg]

Sorry the link doesn't work for you (it works for me)..... here's a screen-grab with the pertinent information -

[just_shooter]

Could you plese give me any link where I can buy potassium chorale online?

[Multigunner]

Fulminate of Mercury is a very simple formula, but mercuric primers are hard on bores unless black powder is used as the propellant. Mercury primer residue also makes brass cartridge cases brittle unless the propellant is BP. Black powder fouling somehow protects the brass of the case from direct contact with the mercury vapors, and the aggressive soap and water cleaning method commonly used for BP fouling negates the effects of mercury residues in the bore.

I have (or had, haven't seen it around for decades) a very old book on the history of hunting in the US that has full instructions on making fulminate of mercury primers.
I think all it takes is mercury, acid, and alcohol to precipitate the fulminate as tiny flakes. I'd add very long dippers and tongs to the list plus a face shield.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Hey, you guys asked. It is not difficult to make any of these chemicals, but it can be hazardous if you don't do it in a well ventilated area. Some mixtures you must workup are extremely acidic and corrosive. As a chemist, I love this stuff and know exactly how to do it safely (and have the required laboratory equipment to do it right). If you are not a chemist, you should find a chemist friend to consult with and get pointers on how to do these reactions safely and efficiently. Good luck in your efforts.

Marshall

I think this is the point, really. I've followed this thread for a long time, and have never been in the slightest doubt that you can make a primer good enough for emergency use in time of shortage, or that somebody can equal the commercial ones in all respects. I am in a lot more doubt whether the average person who wants to, will get away with it. Let us hope the number of fingers that have typed on this thread will still divide by five.

[perotter]

Could you plese give me any link where I can buy potassium chorale online?

You could make it yourself if you can't buy it.

[just_shooter]

I actually made some, but will be a lot easier if I could acquire it ready for use.

[perotter]

I think this is the point, really. I've followed this thread for a long time, and have never been in the slightest doubt that you can make a primer good enough for emergency use in time of shortage, or that somebody can equal the commercial ones in all respects. I am in a lot more doubt whether the average person who wants to, will get away with it. Let us hope the number of fingers that have typed on this thread will still divide by five.

If a person can't safely make a primer compound, they should not be doing load development either.