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Thread: can you make priming compound?

  1. #561
    Boolit Buddy
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    The book matches could work but you only get one very small strip to scrape off. There are so many things to try we may never see the end of it.
    n.h.schmidt

  2. #562
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    I'm at it again. This time I worked with Diamond brand strike on box matches. $1 at the Dollar Tree for ten boxes with 32 matches in each box. This time U.S. A. made. I powdered up 20 matches and wet scraped two strike sides. Combined with some alcohol to make a rough paste. Made 20 percussion caps with this. Sprayed with hair spray to keep it in the cup. Very powerfull with brilliant flash through and around the nipple, I haven't tried any on my muzzleloader yet. I think this could stand some adjustment . Maybe more match heads in the mix or something to slow it down. As it is the cost is two for a penny. This should work for a primer mix too. I deprimed a 7.62 x 39 steel case to load the berdan cup with this stuff. Will get back when tested.
    n.h.schmidt

  3. #563
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    . Please keep us Posted on the results of your project . also let us know what hospital you will be in so we can send you a let well soon card
    NRA Endowment Member
    International Ammunition Association
    New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost

  4. #564
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    @ Ned, you know that stuff is corrosive, right? If it weren't for that fact I would still be using roll caps for rimfire priming.

  5. #565
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    I knew this stuff is corrosive 40 years ago. I deal with it. It's for (mostly) black powder muzzleloaders anyway. If you have good cleaning and preserving you will be ok. As to the danger,I work with only small amts. Less than half a thimble size at a time. Little danger with percussion caps. Others on this thread have made or rebuilt real primers .That could scare me a bit. Traffer The toy pistol caps have mostly gone away here.Wally world used to have the good german ones.All gone. The D.G stores still sell the german caps but the cost is too high.
    n.h.schmidt

  6. #566
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    I just did a quick search and found...Gone! you're right. I didn't know that they were no longer available. How long have they been gone?

  7. #567
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    About a year. If I could find even the crappy super bang role caps,I could work with them. You start by soaking the caps in water. You know what comes next. You have no dots to lift off but there is a gray or pink charge you can still get on the knife. It will look like a grainy paste. Once put in a percussion cap or primer cup,it is powerfull. Work only while wet. I will keep looking for anything else at the stores. Right now the best store bought solution is matches.
    n.h.schmidt

  8. #568
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    I bought the chemicals to make the H48 primer mix . Very reliable, and very predictable. The 22 Reloader Prime All kit also works out good. Same ingredients.

    I tried the roll caps and had mixed results. I'd love to be able to mix the non corrosive mixes, but I am not familiar with the chemicals and process, so I'll stick with what works.

  9. #569
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    I have also done the same. I have a prime all kit and whats needed to make FA42/H48. I have heard about using matches for a long long time now. Mostly they didn't work. Now the way that has been presented here success is happening and was at our fingertips all along. Cheap too
    n.h.schmidt

  10. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by n.h.schmidt View Post
    I have also done the same. I have a prime all kit and whats needed to make FA42/H48. I have heard about using matches for a long long time now. Mostly they didn't work. Now the way that has been presented here success is happening and was at our fingertips all along. Cheap too
    n.h.schmidt
    How to matches compare with toy caps for corrosiveness? Would they be worth using in 22 rimfire cartridges?

  11. #571
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    There is no way to rate the level of corrosive . It either it is or isn't. The matches are going to cause rust if you don't clean well. I use Ballastoll for everything to clean and preserve . I'm guessing the matches would work in 22 rimfire. You would have to work out the details . The Simply Done matches grind up to dust much easier than the Diamond matches. You would want this very fine to get in the rim. The burn is less violent with the Simply Done matches too.
    I have changed the ratio of the Diamond matches to 32 heads to 2box sides scraped. Still a very good pop with flame . I will try some in my muzzleloader soon.
    n.h.schmidt

  12. #572
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    Hi Marshall That's great work you are doing. It's also beyond my meager experience. I'm still stuck on FA42 and ground up matches. The matches are not doing well in percussion caps. They sound powerful but just don't set off the charge. I am going to try them in berdan primers. Should work better in them.
    n.h.schmidt

  13. #573
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    Quote Originally Posted by n.h.schmidt View Post
    Hi Marshall That's great work you are doing. It's also beyond my meager experience. I'm still stuck on FA42 and ground up matches. The matches are not doing well in percussion caps. They sound powerful but just don't set off the charge. I am going to try them in berdan primers. Should work better in them.
    n.h.schmidt
    I just read this again. Have you tried 70 mesh strained aluminum powder (about like beach sand) I found that it really helps with the fire aspect of primer. (Others have not experienced the same, I suspect that the size of the granules is critical for the correct burn characteristics)

  14. #574
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    HI Traffer Not a lot happening here lately. I have used filings of aluminum in percussion caps using the toy pistol caps. Ten dots and the aluminum sprinkled on top. That didn't work for me. I will give anything a try though. Part of the problem with percussion caps is only about half of the charge fires into the nipple. The rest goes on the outside.
    n.h.schmidt

  15. #575
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    Advanced primer compounds might be "frowned upon" within this thread, but I have learned that some state-of-the-art developments can be reviewed on the Aardvark Reloading website -

    http://aardvarkreloading.com/videos.html
    "Commerce with all nations, alliance with none, should be our motto."

    - Thomas Jefferson


  16. #576
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    I looked it over. Very interesting,lets you know a lot.I don't like working with ground glass. I do like the FA-42 formula. Almost nothing about binders. For years I was using hairspray. Now I dissolve a few shellac flakes into ethyl alcohol. That's denatured alcohol. Not all you can buy is a high percentage of ethyl though. I put a drop onto the primer mix and it holds. Seems that it dosn't deaden the power either. Too much hairspray will sometimes. I will have to revisit using the toy pistol cap dots. Using the shellac as a binder may improve the caps power. The toy role caps may now be a dead end though as I'm not finding them anymore.

  17. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by n.h.schmidt View Post
    HI Traffer Not a lot happening here lately. I have used filings of aluminum in percussion caps using the toy pistol caps. Ten dots and the aluminum sprinkled on top. That didn't work for me. I will give anything a try though. Part of the problem with percussion caps is only about half of the charge fires into the nipple. The rest goes on the outside.
    n.h.schmidt
    I am beginning to doubt myself about the aluminum. Nobody else seems to be able to duplicate my results. Our range opens up in May. I am going to make up a batch of toy cap with 70 mesh aluminum and try it again. Also going to try it with 70 mesh Magnesium. I really want to see that super clean barrel again. I hope it wasn't just a hallucination. Also I'm thinking that if these things leave no traces of burned powder or priming compound in the gun, maybe they won't corrode either...One can dream!

  18. #578
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    Quote Originally Posted by ofitg View Post
    Advanced primer compounds might be "frowned upon" within this thread, but I have learned that some state-of-the-art developments can be reviewed on the Aardvark Reloading website -

    http://aardvarkreloading.com/videos.html
    Bookmark that link folks. AArdvark is a guy who is collaborating with Marshall, The chemist who taught us so much here. They will probably be keeping up with his future developments.

  19. #579
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    GONRA can vouch for Traffer's 09-22-2018 hydraulic decapping post.
    Several years ago, got big fat 9mm diameter Berdan primers removed from ~100 14.5x114 mm Soviet LCS heavy machine gun once fired empties.
    (Some had the famous Chicom "ball bearing ball anvil" Berdan primer!) Had ~150 cases to verk wth. Used lathe "cutout & pry" method for troublesome "strong crimp" cases.
    Difficult to generalize this stuff, but am pretty sure "larger the Berdan primer, better hydraulic decapping" verks.

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++

    Anybody know what the Federal Catalyst TM primer mix is?
    Seems they use LAAARGE flash holes?
    Are they used only in moderate pressure pistol cartridges, or higher pressure rifle cartridges too?

    Really Curious.... THANX!

  20. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by GONRA View Post
    GONRA can vouch for Traffer's 09-22-2018 hydraulic decapping post.
    Several years ago, got big fat 9mm diameter Berdan primers removed from ~100 14.5x114 mm Soviet LCS heavy machine gun once fired empties.
    (Some had the famous Chicom "ball bearing ball anvil" Berdan primer!) Had ~150 cases to verk wth. Used lathe "cutout & pry" method for troublesome "strong crimp" cases.
    Difficult to generalize this stuff, but am pretty sure "larger the Berdan primer, better hydraulic decapping" verks.

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++

    Anybody know what the Federal Catalyst TM primer mix is?
    Seems they use LAAARGE flash holes?
    Are they used only in moderate pressure pistol cartridges, or higher pressure rifle cartridges too?

    Really Curious.... THANX!
    I will pass that question along to Marshall...

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check