Need some help and suggestions - casting for in-line

[selmerfan]

I've got an American Knight rifle, 1/28" twist, .50 cal in-line that I'd like to cast for. I've got all the casting stuff, just no mold for this one. Is there a "standard" cast projectile size or mold that I should be looking for, or do I need to slug my barrel just like my other rifles I cast for, then size for this barrel, or is there a different procedure because it's a front-stuffer? Also looking for mold suggestions and boolit designs - I'm looking to use this strictly for deer-hunting in Minnesota out to 150 yds. Thanks!
selmerfan

PS - Do I need to use pure lead/SOWWs or can I use "normal" boolit casting alloys such as COWWs or 50/50 COWW/Pure or Lyman #2, etc.?

[selmerfan]

So...it looks like the Lee R.E.A.L. mold is a good place to start. For hunting purposes, should I purchase the 320 gr. or 250 gr.? 150 yds max range...

[Bullshop]

You need to check in at DWBs site. They have it all figured out and the Lee boolit aint it.

[johnson1942]

you might find the post just below you that i posted on new type cast bullet of 1/28 twist inline. it shoots fantastic in mine and weighs 533 grains. just a thought.

[selmerfan]

I saw that post - but how do I get a mold for it? Or just a few hundred boolits - that will last my ML shooting a LOOOOONNNNGGGG time!

[selmerfan]

Bullshop - can you elaborate more on "DWB"? I assume this is Doc White based on a google search, but can you be more specific? The boolits he's suggesting are for his rifles and are a heck of a lot heavier than "normal" from what I can determine. Thanks!

[Maven]

Look up frontier gander: Community>members list and PM him for his suggestions. Bullshop's correct, the Lee REAL's may not cast large enough for the Knight (Green Mtn.) bbl. Don't ask how I know! Btw, pure Pb is what you'll need.

[johnson1942]

hornaday fpb bullet 350 grain avail over the internet will work, if you only hunt and dont target shoot the cost wont be too bad.

[skullmount]

The grooves on the Knights are deeper than the Whites = different boolits

I know you are wanting to cast but.................


Look into a sabot/ bullet combo for that gun too. The Knight I have with the 28 twist, after I lapped it will shoot lights out with a 240 grainer. My brother took two deer on a cull hunt years ago with that gun..............both shots over 115 yards. My friend shoots the 260 grainer in his Remington ML and it will shoot very well also.

I also have used the Great Plains 385 grain or similar, pure lead as you have.

you might contact underclocked here also, he has posted some great photos and lenghtly disertations on bullet / ML gun combinations as has the aforementioned frontier gander

[selmerfan]

I've also considered getting a heavy .45 caliber mold and combining them with commonly available sabots. In that case I would guess I'd just be able to use any alloy I desire, correct?

[Bullshop]

Skullmount and Underclocked are the two members here that can set you straight.

[Underclocked]

DWBs is a forum for "Dirty White Boys". Mostly White Rifle owners and shooters and mostly nutz!

I would recommend you get an an Accurate Mold - http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_...=51-460M-D.png

That happens to be an EXACT copy of a mold I designed and it does well from 1:28 twist barrels. I would ask for it to drop them in pure lead at .505" diameter and get a Lee .501 sizer die. Bullshop still sells some terrific lube so far as I know so I would have to recommend his unless you have another lube you are sure will work well. I would lube, then size to just a hair over bore diameter - perhaps .0005" over but no more than .001" over. Hone the sizer die as needed to get that size. Objective is to wind up with a bullet that starts easily but still engraves the rifling a bit. Combine that bullet with a WAD-510A from TOTW, about 80 grains of good powder and you should be in business.

The .505" diameter is based upon your barrel being a bit large on the land-land measure, if it's tighter you could request something nearer to your bore but I would still keep it dropping them a bit larger than you want the final product. Swiss 3 works great but probably so would most any other quality black. Blackhorn 209 would be about the only powder I would avoid entirely for use with conicals.

Purest lead you can find.

I just want to add that the "slip-fit" system as described above and advocated by Doc White works great in most Knight rifles.

Knight Disc Elite .45 caliber

Knight KP1 .50 caliber

Those are 100 yard groups and are both the first conicals tried in either rifle.

[Bullshop]

Told ya so!

[Rattus58]

I've got an American Knight rifle, 1/28" twist, .50 cal in-line that I'd like to cast for. I've got all the casting stuff, just no mold for this one. Is there a "standard" cast projectile size or mold that I should be looking for, or do I need to slug my barrel just like my other rifles I cast for, then size for this barrel, or is there a different procedure because it's a front-stuffer? Also looking for mold suggestions and boolit designs - I'm looking to use this strictly for deer-hunting in Minnesota out to 150 yds. Thanks!
selmerfan

PS - Do I need to use pure lead/SOWWs or can I use "normal" boolit casting alloys such as COWWs or 50/50 COWW/Pure or Lyman #2, etc.?

I have some fast twist Whites with 1-20 and 1-24 twists that shoot very accurately bullets between 425 and 600 grains. If you look for example at the Lyman molds for example of the "whitworth" style bullets http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/b...lackpowder.php and find a bullet that exponentially fills your 50 caliber bore (.500 or .504), you will absolutely have an accurate bullet. I'm not sure that the Great Plains type has a straight barrel taper or not, but if it does, it too might be worth looking into but I've had zero success with great plains early on (before I got into the Whitworth styles) with my Thompson Center 1-20 twist White mountain which I subsequently coverted with a custom barrel to a .451 henry style rifling in 1-20 twist. In my opinion, a sized bullet to no more than .001 engraving into the groove is essential to accuracy.

Much Aloha...

[Rattus58]

DWBs is a forum for "Dirty White Boys". Mostly White Rifle owners and shooters and mostly nutz!

I would recommend you get an an Accurate Mold - http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_...=51-460M-D.png

That happens to be an EXACT copy of a mold I designed and it does well from 1:28 twist barrels. I would ask for it to drop them in pure lead at .505" diameter and get a Lee .501 sizer die. Bullshop still sells some terrific lube so far as I know so I would have to recommend his unless you have another lube you are sure will work well. I would lube, then size to just a hair over bore diameter - perhaps .0005" over but no more than .001" over. Hone the sizer die as needed to get that size. Objective is to wind up with a bullet that starts easily but still engraves the rifling a bit. Combine that bullet with a WAD-510A from TOTW, about 80 grains of good powder and you should be in business.

The .505" diameter is based upon your barrel being a bit large on the land-land measure, if it's tighter you could request something nearer to your bore but I would still keep it dropping them a bit larger than you want the final product. Swiss 3 works great but probably so would most any other quality black. Blackhorn 209 would be about the only powder I would avoid entirely for use with conicals.

Purest lead you can find.

I just want to add that the "slip-fit" system as described above and advocated by Doc White works great in most Knight rifles.

Knight Disc Elite .45 caliber

Knight KP1 .50 caliber

Those are 100 yard groups and are both the first conicals tried in either rifle.

Well there Uncle... fancy seein you here.... I agree... Copper Cruisers... totally agree the best of the best!

[Rattus58]

Bullshop - can you elaborate more on "DWB"? I assume this is Doc White based on a google search, but can you be more specific? The boolits he's suggesting are for his rifles and are a heck of a lot heavier than "normal" from what I can determine. Thanks!

Actually started as "Dirty Little White Boys" and actually wasn't coined by Doc... but was essentially referencing the cult that evolved with his guns and bullets.

Aloha...

[skullmount]

Actually started as "Dirty Little White Boys" and actually wasn't coined by Doc... but was essentially referencing the cult that evolved with his guns and bullets.

cult ?? wow thats a pretty strong word there rattus, but ifn it fits

[Rattus58]

cult ?? wow thats a pretty strong word there rattus, but ifn it fits

By day they poured their lead, by night they held communion
The hunts were sometimes planned, a sort of White reunion
The tube was grooved precisely, to guide the heaviest lead
By day a pound of powder, a smile at night to bed

[newton]

I did some playing around last year with my inline. You can look up my experiment under "50-70" and use my name in the search.

You need to be aware of what your gun can handle. Just like with modern cartridges, larger boolits do make pressure rise. This can be a good, and bad, thing. It can be worked around, but velocity of the boolit is effected. I'm not at all saying that you cannot shoot a heavy boolit in your gun, but your powder charge will have to be adjusted accordingly.

I believe I found the happy medium with my gun. I am going to do more testing when the weather warms up. I have a chronograph now so I will have more data to share. But the fast twist rates do wonderful with long boolits in the 50 caliber.

Boolit fit is just as important as powder charge also. Actually, it can be harder to find than the powder charge. But when it all comes together you can have a straight shooting gun that imparts one mammoth of a shock to its target.

[newton]

I have always wondered how gas checks on a muzzleloading boolit would work. Are they easy to load? I have thought about making some PB checks for my .50 boolit that I am working with. I could see where a little more grip at the base of the boolit would be a good thing. I have never had problems with leading, which is what gas checks are normally used for. But my mind does wonder if they would be beneficial in other ways.