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Thread: Pid Controller Schematic

  1. #1
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    Pid Controller Schematic

    Here is a design schematic for a PID controller for use either electric lead pot or lubersizer.Click image for larger version. 

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    Very nice!
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  3. #3
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    Parts List For PID Controller

    The actual PID Controller - Auber Instruments Best Quality


    The K Type submersible thermocouple


    40amp Solid State Relay


    Heat Sink for 40 amp SSR


    Project box


    fuse holder
    http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...ST-ALCO/1.html

    fuses
    http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...MA-FUSE/1.html

    indicator lamps
    http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...AMP-RED/1.html

    switches
    http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-SWITCH/1.html

    terminal strip
    http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-20-AMP/1.html

    Power cord ( cut in half for power in and power out)
    http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...RD-14/3/1.html
    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 04-22-2019 at 12:17 PM. Reason: removed ebay links
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  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
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    Your project box has the heat sink link.

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    I fixed that, sorry guys...
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    Bodine,

    A great post. I'd like to suggest one change though to the component list...how 'bout keeping everything to regular suppliers or at least an alternate supplier besides eBay. Ebay links tend to go dead in my experience.

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    Why the indicator lights? Seems like the PID display would be enough. I haven't felt the need to add any to my PID. Also, what did you use for the on-off switch? I got one at Radio shack with a built in on light, seems to work OK.

  8. #8
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    Bodine thats great I like that. Your PID controller can be bought right from auberins.com. I have dealt with them a lot and they are very helpful if you have questions. One thing to keep in mind though is that a SSR when it goes bad it typically stays closed so your unit would stay powered until you caught the problem. On the other hand a contactor when they malfunction they typically open so you wouldn't have a chance of something overheating if it was unattended. You would also have to use another PID which Auberins has for the same price that is set up for a contactor. Just my .02 worth.

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    If you want to go the cheaper route you can opt for a Ebay special that isn't rated for the larger current load and simply use a wall wart to run an ice cube relay. This way there is no heat, no heat sink and the money that was spent for the SS relay and heavy duty current rating of the PID will be spent for the small wall wart power supply and a cheap plug in relay.
    The power supply one leg will simply run thru a set of contacts in the PID controller. The heavy current needs of a heater will simply be run thru the contacts of the add on relay.

    Attachment 61388

    Its not hard to source a small wall wart power supply and a Ice cube relay for $10 or less.
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 02-16-2013 at 07:36 AM.

  10. #10
    Great Schematic and thanks for posting! I ordered the wrong PID (SSR built-in). As soon as I return it to Auberins and get the one with the SSR control output, I plan to build it.
    Last edited by sabrecross03; 03-18-2013 at 07:45 AM.
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  11. #11
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    For driving a Lee Pro 4-20 pot 110v/700watt you shouldn't need more than a 10 amp SSR should you ?

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    Boolit Master
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    ^^^ true... but it may overheat... a 40A SSR is about $7, it might be overkill but you won't have the over heating problems

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    Since the 10A, the 25A, and the 40A SSRs are often in the same packages (at least the Ebay stuff)- the 10A won't over heat.

    Consider - The household circuit that you draw from can supply 15A + before your breaker trips.
    A short circuit will burn out the 10A before the breaker can stop it. The 25 A May be OK in the same instance.
    Also who says you will Always use the thing for Only 700W?
    Better to have the capacity that you can draw from the wall and then you won't have to rebuilt it to get there.
    But the 25A in and feel good the extra cost is what 50 cent.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    One suggestion, if I may. If you're using a metal case to house everything then it's considered normal practice to also ground the earth lead to the case.

  15. #15
    I just bought a SYL-2362A2 from Auber, and the design schematic on it is different than the one at the top of this thread. This may be covered somewhere else, but near as I can tell, it hasn't been mentioned in this thread. As you can see on the one I bought, the SSR control is on 6&7, the thermocoupler is on 9&10 and the PID power is on 1&2. Just hoping to save someone some trouble.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    Bottom line is, they're all different! There is no "standard" as to which terminals are used for which functions. You have to check the connections for whichever one you buy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shuckinthecorn View Post
    I just bought a SYL-2362A2 from Auber, and the design schematic on it is different than the one at the top of this thread. This may be covered somewhere else, but near as I can tell, it hasn't been mentioned in this thread. As you can see on the one I bought, the SSR control is on 6&7, the thermocoupler is on 9&10 and the PID power is on 1&2. Just hoping to save someone some trouble.
    The wiring diagrams out there are a reference only. If you have something that is different simply change the diagram after printing it out and use it.

  18. #18
    The title of this thread is "Pid Controller Schematic ".
    Isn't it possible that someone might actually wire their unit by this?
    Until now, I don't think this has been mentioned in this thread.
    BTW, I used the schematic that came with mine, and all is well.
    I knew to check the instructions for each particular unit, isn't it possible that someone might not?
    As already stated, just hoping to save someone some trouble, nothing else.

  19. #19
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    I think the thermostat in my 4 20 is shot, and I have some questions about building a PID controller.

    Does anyone have a guesstimate as to the cost of all the parts for this project as listed?

    Is there a cheaper PID available that will work? I'm thinking 'no frills,' if that is possible.

    Is a 'K type submersible thermocouple' a generic description? Do I need any one in particular? Non-ebay source for same?

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    Yeah.. Since things have cooled down a little around the Frozone debate ... and I'm not trying to make money anyway from this ... here are some "stable" Amazon links for equipment (except for the thermocouple). E-Bay is cheaper and it's the same stuff. I've not gotten burned on ANYTHING PID/Thermocouple related on e-bay -- even from China.

    Here are my recommendations, with some logic. I am not affiliated with any of the sellers listed here and I bought my two sets of PID stuff from completely different sellers. You are responsible for what you chose to buy:

    MyPin TA4-SNR PID... $25 shipped from e-bay (US Seller), or from Amazon --DO NOT BUY THE "RNR" MODEL... either the SNR + K-thermocouple or SSR (better IMHO if you want to pay extra over e-bay) $29. Prime eligible.

    http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Tempera.../dp/B00BVWYHVO

    Solid State Relay.. I like going bigger than I need.. so if you are going for the Taiwanese SSR's.. spring the extra few bux for the 40A model. Typically $10 with a heat sink from China on e-bay... or... Amazon... $15 prime eligible...

    http://www.amazon.com/Single-Phase-S.../dp/B00843IUG6

    HEAT SINK GREASE-- the low ratings on Amazon for the above were because people forgot to grease the SSR! YOU NEED TO PUT THE GREASE BETWEEN THE SSR and Heat Sink. $8 but a lifetime supply for most...

    http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-.../dp/B004Z9XG0I

    -- and note-- you can argue all day that the heatsink isn't needed depending on how you mount and you'd be correct. It's so cheap to just get the heatsink, I recommend doing that and then there are no worries if you put grease in between the SSR and the heatsink.. if you use the mounting case as a heatsink, you still need the grease!

    Thermocouple.. Typically what most use here are a long shaft "dip in the pot" type.. Wow..Amazon appears to stink for that. Bite your pride and go on e-bay. $2-10 bucks... I mean if you don't want to go e-bay, you can pay $20-30 for a $5 thermocouple that is up to you...

    This link will go dead eventually, but as of today 3.14/14 (pi joke intended), this seems to be the most appropriate thermocouple from e-bay from a US seller...



    Because of the fact the link will eventually disappear.... here is a picture...

    Name:  k-themo-lead-pot.JPG
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    $6.39.

    So.. AS OF TODAY...Using Amazon where possible, and assuming free shipping-- it's $29 + $15 + $8 + $6.3 == $58.30
    Going to e-bay for the same stuff== $25 + $10 + $5 + $6.3 == $46.30

    This doesn't include mounting stuff.. I think M6 screws are needed for the heatsink if not included, I always had them in a cheap Harbor Freight assortment I got on close out there...

    Fred
    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 04-22-2019 at 12:18 PM. Reason: removed ebay link

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