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Thread: Pid Controller Schematic

  1. #61
    Boolit Buddy
    Griff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MBfrontier View Post
    Project done. Holds temp at +/- 2 degrees. Thanks to Mike W1 for sending me the programming parameters.
    Quote Originally Posted by stu1ritter View Post
    Any chance of a copy of those parameters?
    thanks,
    Stu
    +1. I'm getting a much larger variation on the temps.
    Griff
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  2. #62
    Boolit Bub MBfrontier's Avatar
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    After using my PID for a while now I have been getting more than +/- 2 degrees. I am speaking about after the pot heats up and settles down while I am casting. I have seen it as much as 6 to 8 degrees at times but not nearly enough to be concerned about. I have a fan close by pulling air away from the casting area which may be contributing to the temperature variation. Still a lot better than the temp control on the pot.

    I'm in the process of making a fume extractor which will set a little behind and above the pot and vent out a window. It will use a computer fan and a 12v wall plug for power that I saw elsewhere on this website. Thanks for the ideas.
    Mike B.

  3. #63
    Boolit Buddy bbogue1's Avatar
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    How does a SSR work with a PID?

    Here is what Wikipedia says a SSR is:
    A solid-state relay (SSR) is an electronic switching device that switches on or off when a small external voltage is applied across its control terminals. SSRs consist of a sensor which responds to an appropriate input (control signal), a solid-state electronic switching device which switches power to the load circuitry, and a coupling mechanism to enable the control signal to activate this switch without mechanical parts. The relay may be designed to switch either AC or DC to the load. It serves the same function as an electromechanical relay, but has no moving parts.

    HERE ARE MY COMMENTS: It has a low voltage side and a high voltage side. The AC power black wire is interrupted by the SSR (a switch) on it's journey from the wall to the PID to the SSR to the load (Lee Melter). When the PID controller senses a need for more heat in the melter (through the thermocouple) it sends a low voltage signal to the low voltage side of the SSR. The SSR low voltage side switches on (the red light turns on) and switches on the high voltage side allowing 110 AC to continue through the black wire to the load (melter). When the temp in the melter reaches the prescribe desired high temp (the SV) the PID stops the signal to the low voltage side of the SSR and the 110 AC switch opens which halts electricity passage through the black wire. When the PID senses there is sufficient drop in temp the process starts all over again.

    PLEASE REFER TO THE WIRING DIRECTIONS ON THE SIDE OF YOUR PID FOR THE PROPER CONNECTIONS ..... The photo below shows how a cheap Rex C100 should be wired and in the lower right corner is the SSR wiring. Carefully follow the black wire and you'l see how it is interrupted by the SSR and you'll see how the SSR can switch the flow of electricity in the black wire on or off. Note the bumps along the white wire; those mean the wires bypass that is they do not connect.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #64
    Boolit Buddy
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    Question about the Rex C100 PID controllers:
    Can the "0-400 C" range unit be changed to a higher range
    by somehow reprogramming or whatever.
    Or is in not worth "screwing" with?
    Reason I ask is twice,out of 4 orders, when I ordered a 0-1300 C unit, they sent a 0-400.
    Not high enough for my desired operating temp on my lead pots
    They refunded my money, but said to not return the incorrect 0-400.
    Thanks,
    beltfed/arnie

  5. #65
    Boolit Master

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    Yup

    TO CHANGE PV setting on startup sequence to a higher setting

    Rex C100 Control Keys
    SET KEY
    ◄ Key Use to select which digit to change
    ▲ Key Use to Increase digit value
    ▼ Key Use to Decrease digit value

    1. After power on Hold SET key down until
    AL 1 appears on screen
    2. Press SET repeatedly to cycle to LCK
    3. Set LCK to 1000
    4. Press SET and ◄ and hold till COD = 0000
    shows.
    5. Press SET and cycle thru menu
    6. When COD = 0001 press SET to cycle thru
    menu
    7. SLH parameter you can change from 400 to 450
    8. Press SET
    9. Power unit down
    10. Power unit on and startup display should now show
    the 450 instead of 400
    Mike

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  6. #66
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    ^ good to know if I ever need to do that

    right now mine is fine for my needs
    NRA Life
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  7. #67
    Boolit Buddy
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    thank you, Mike,
    I will try this procedure
    Indeed, upping the limit to 450C should be more than high enough for my casting
    So far, my first casting run with my usual 9+1 ww/lino ran very well at 404 C setting on
    my 0-1300 Rex C100

    beltfed/arnie

  8. #68
    Boolit Buddy
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    Mike,
    I temporarily wired the 0-400 Rex C100
    and went thru your procedure, and successfully got it to read 450 C.
    and can now set it up to that new limit.
    Next to wire it up with the SSR, T/C,etc and try it out
    beltfed/arnie

  9. #69
    Boolit Mold RangeMonkey2009's Avatar
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    What size project box did you use? Plastic or metal?
    Last edited by RangeMonkey2009; 05-03-2018 at 12:02 AM.

  10. #70
    Boolit Mold
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    Not being particularly adept at building electronics, I'm wondering if there is somebody who sells these ready to attach to the melting pot.

  11. #71
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clutch80 View Post
    Not being particularly adept at building electronics, I'm wondering if there is somebody who sells these ready to attach to the melting pot.
    +1....

  12. #72
    Boolit Master
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    There is not any building of components to them more like fitting the parts in a box and running the wires to the proper screw terminals . It is more mechanical assembly of prebuilt components and you can find a lot of good ideas for setting one up by searching here , and the are some good utube tutorials as well.
    It is fun to put them together.

  13. #73
    Boolit Buddy Tazlaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hook View Post
    +1....
    Hook, I read once where a member was building them. Keep searching. If I run across it again, I’ll post a link.
    I just built one and it’s not that hard. Hardest part for me was finding a good enclosure and cutting the holes for the components to fit in. Much more mechanical than electrical.
    Just knowing enough to do it, is not enough to do it right! -Taz

  14. #74
    Super Moderator Emeritus
    Preacher Jim's Avatar
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    Guys for those who need a reliable unit contact vender sponsor Hatch. He has a good unit and stands behind what he sells.

  15. #75
    Boolit Buddy
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check