This is something I’ve wanted to do for many years; blow up a couple of ’93 and ’96 Mauser's to see which fails first and how they fail. By first I mean which one swallows X and survives, the other doesn’t. I've been collecting junk for years, usually to get parts. Before anyone has a cow about desecration of sacred objects, I’ll point out that these parts are only worth what I’m going to do to them – destruction. And, they are mine. The subjects are two ’93 Oviedo’s that have been scrubbed of dates. One as been drilled and tapped for scope, has had about .004 removed from the receiver ring in process of being ‘sporterized’ to prettiness. This action shows no set-back and the locking areas can not be cut with a mill bastard. In fact, the overall hardness of this action is quite good. The receiver threads are buggered for about the length of ¾ of a thread that is missing in a interrupted fashion. The other is stock, has .004” set-back, and the lug support areas can easily be filed. The whole action is soft and possibly never had any case. Too bad they aren’t dated.
The ‘96’s are 1913 and 1911. One is as soft as the Spaniard and shows set-back but I can’t measure it. The other shows no set-back and a file can just touch the lug support area. It has a botched scope installation – a total of 4 holes in the ring. I’m thinking I’ll tig those up for the test. Both of them have been hammered. Both receiver rings were crushed during barrel removal. There is a guy that has been selling the last inventory of the Kimber failure on GunBroker FOR YEARS, of which, I was a sucker for. Here is a little fun tidbit; not wanting to destroy a perfectly good Swedish bolt I modified the actions to accept a (modified) ’93 bolt, of which, I have a surfeit. Was easy to do and for my purpose, works just fine. I have some scummy 8MM Turk barrels that I shortened for convenience and took about .007” off the tenon to make the bolts fit. I do not have a headspace gauge so I did the verboten masking tape thing.
I have a ways to go until I actually touch one of these guys off. I’m in process of building a mount and containment apparatus as I don’t want to destroy the lighting in the shop. I am interested in some input as to how to tailor the test. I don’t want to just blow them up, that would be too easy. I want to torture them. Help me out. I’m not in the least interested in arguing about what I’m doing. The internet is a cruel world. On another board I showed a ’96 that I easily bent the tang 90 degrees with an 8” Crescent wrench. Holy hell broke loose. I was called about everything you can imagine, and, banned. Fact is, Swedish Mauser's can be pretty soft and this is one of the reasons I’m doing this. I don’t think that the Swedish Mauser's are much better than their Spanish cousins.
Mark