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Thread: Need help with 1897 vintage Marlin '94 32-20.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master bosterr's Avatar
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    Dec 2011
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    Western Pa.
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    Need help with 1897 vintage Marlin '94 32-20.

    I really don't know where to begin, but here goes. One of the family hand-me-down guns I have is a 94 Marlin in 32-20, 24 inch octagon barrel, serial #159XXX. It was acquired by my Great, Great Uncle Clem, I would say probably new. After researching, I found it "left the warehouse" in 1897. It had been in a gun cabinet for more years than I could guess. Back in the early 60's, my brother took it deer hunting, having fired it only a few times with jacketed soft points. The color case hardening on the receiver is almost all gone, but all the bluing looks about 90%. In the late 60's, the stock was refinished. So no collector value, I would think. I've always known how rough the bore is, and being me, I just can't stand to have something that dosen't work! Just this past Sunday, I was talking to my 93 year old Father about it, and out of the blue, he said the roughness is lead and it's probably lead from one end to the other! The light bulb went on!!! Lead can be removed! At first I thought I have nothing to lose, try a stainless brush and go at it. Then I remembered a friend of mine has one of those electric Outers Lead Out and he swears by it. If that works, who knows what lay underneath. I ran a worn out 357 brush down the bore to get the dust out, and by golly it has rifling! Pulling the brush out towards the muzzle, it feels rough for the first 8 inches, then gets pretty smooth. I put a piece of white paper in the ejection port, then shined a real bright LED lite in on the paper. It looks like there's some reasonably sharp rifling about 4 inches from the chamber on one side, like it really could be only partially leaded up. The grooves look fairly good, but the lands have a bit of a "rounded" appearance. Now I'm having visions of shooting the old girl, with gas checked boolits! I'm not quite ready to try slugging the bore, might never get it out! Any and all suggestions, comments and your experiences would be GREATLY appreciated!

    Bob

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    562
    First, throw that stainless brush in the trash. They will not only remove the fouling, but will remove barrel steel as well. I would get some good bore solvent and a bore mop and give it a good soaking for a day or so. After that use a bronze brush to go after the remaining fouling.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


    Cactus Farmer's Avatar
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    Jul 2008
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    Crane County,Texas
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    Make or buy some "Ed's red" or Kroil. Soak the bore and use a bronze brush. Repeat.........use new brush when the old ones go thru too easyly. Worn out won't clean.........Use a jag of the right size to wipe with well fitting patch. After soaking I have had strings of lead come out with a good patch wiping. Good luck.
    Lewis AKA Wright Brothers Gunsmiths

    "Illegitimus non carborundum"

    Political Correctness: A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t*rd by the clean end!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


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    Franklin, TN
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    Remove the bolt and clean from the breech end. This is one advantage to the Marlin over the Winchesters.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check