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Thread: Do I need a factory crimp die?

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Do I need a factory crimp die?

    I'm just starting out and am ordering the Lee Classic turret kit. I"m going to either order the 3 die set or 4 die set in .45acp. Do you recommend the 4 die set containing the factory crimp die?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



    462's Avatar
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    No.

    A properly applied taper crimp, done with a conventional taper crimp die, is all that is needed. Billions of .45 ACP rounds were loaded, chambered, and fired long before Mr. Lee came up with a new marketing idea.

  3. #3
    Boolit Bub

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    What is he price difference between the two? You may decide you want one in the future and can't find one. when it comes to things like this I say it is better to have and not want than to need and not have.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master o6Patient's Avatar
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    The principle of the factory crimp dies is very sound, and for the price, very good value.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    Do you need it ... no , but might it be handy when you start fooling around with little things in your ammo production ... yes . I don't have one in a handgun caliber but I do have a couple in rifle calibers that get used ..... sometimes .

    Jack

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    Cool

    what caliber are you using?

    do you want a bullet feeder? That takes up one hole!
    http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/...4A6F342472.mp4

    Buy the two riser's and swivel adapter on powder measure. Take a #2 pencil to every surface that comes in contact with powder,, every surface, metal or plastic. I load 9's and 380's on my lee CCTP, and 45's and 40's on my LLM.

    Revolver shooters say they like FCD.

    I have a FCD for 45acp, i can get by without it.

    I use seat/crimp die because i use bullet feeders.

    U BETTER BUY "4HOLE" CLASSIC CAST TURRET PRESS, THE NEW ONE.

    If you want best service and price and mailing/shipping call dennis @ titanreloading.com .. His store is down the street from lee and he was a engineer at lee factory. Plus he always answers the phone and ?'s correctly for you.

    Buy that lee metal base mount kit you see in photo. The ejector that kicks finished rnd in bucket is on youtube for 17$.


  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Do a search here for FCD. This has been discussed endlessly. The rifle and pistol fcd's are two completely different animals (exception being the ranchdog collet types for pistol). The rifle fcd works great, while many of us feel the pistol fcd does more harm than good for cast bullets. For cast, I suggest as post #2 above, you get the 3 die set and the Lee (or other) taper crimp die. The Lee taper crimp die works well and is quite inexpensive (it's the fcd without the carbide ring). If you're just doing jacketed, the fcd seems to do no harm.

    BTW, I really like my LCT and I'm not a Lee fan, I'm sure you'll be pleased with it.

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks guys. I ordered both the classic turret kit, as well as the 3 die set. The FCD is xgeap if i find that i need it.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    MtGun44's Avatar
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    RUN away from the pistol type FCD. Use an ordinary taper crimp die to TC as
    a separate operation.

    Rifle type FCD is entirely different animal, a wonderful device. Pistol FCD is a
    solution looking for a problem and often CAUSING problems.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master engineer401's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtGun44 View Post
    Pistol FCD is a
    solution looking for a problem and often CAUSING problems.

    Bill
    That has been my experience. I use Dillon crimping dies almost exclusively. Some Lee products work for others. As suggested by others, a regular taper crimp die of most any brand will serve your purpose.
    Last edited by engineer401; 01-21-2013 at 01:55 AM.

  11. #11
    I do not use any FCD for any cast bullet pistol loads. All the LEE pistol FCD's have a carbides post sizing ring. These will catch any cast bullets and resize them smaller. Defeats the purpose of having your cast loads one thousandths over groove diameter.
    Ranch Dog sells a LEE FCD callet die for .357 that I do use though.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    mdi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 462 View Post
    No.

    A properly applied taper crimp, done with a conventional taper crimp die, is all that is needed. Billions of .45 ACP rounds were loaded, chambered, and fired long before Mr. Lee came up with a new marketing idea.
    My feelings exactly! Learn to adjust your dies and reload properly and you'll never need a "post seating sizing die"...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master o6Patient's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 462 View Post
    No.

    A properly applied taper crimp, done with a conventional taper crimp die, is all that is needed. Billions of .45 ACP rounds were loaded, chambered, and fired long before Mr. Lee came up with a new marketing idea.
    That's what I would say although, while I like the factory crimp die - you certainly don't need it.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    no!
    no!
    No!
    Distinguished, Master,2600 club, President 100 badge holder.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I was using a LEE factory crimp die on 45acp, because it had helped - ???? - in loading some .40 S&W, but after using the one on the .45, I had to go back and cut the lead away from the case mouth with almost every one of some hundreds of loaded cases.

    I suspect that I didn't have the standard .40S&W dies properly adjusted to begin with.

    I 100% agree with the "NO" above, and solidly stand with the statement that in almost all cases, a properly adjust set of dies will do everything needed to load quality handgun and YES!!!!!!! rifle ammo. Forget the Lee FCD if at all possible.

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    No. I use rcbs with their taper. Works fine. Barely run a crimp unless magnums.
    Our house is protected by the Good Lord and a gun and you might meet them both if you show up here not welcome son!

  17. #17
    Boolit Master FLHTC's Avatar
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    I do use the factory crime die in a few caliber and why i like them so much is because my case lengths can vary a few thousands and i still get a consistent crimp. The straight walled cases that don't get a roll crimp will not benefit from the FCD but many others do in my opinion.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Interesting.

    However, I crimp little to nothing in rifle cartridges, my 45/70 with cast boolits being the one exception.

    Since the 60s when I started reloading, I have never seen a need for crimping anything other then my handgun ammo.

    Of course, I do not hand load for a lever action or other tube mag type weapon.

    With my 45/70, there is no need for a crimp, it being a RUGER #1 and single shot, other then it seems to shoot better with a bit of a crimp.

    For most rifles, there is little or nothing to be gained with crimping unless possibly your neck expander button is over size which would cause poor neck fit to the bullets.

    Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
    Last edited by Crusty Deary Ol'Coot; 01-22-2013 at 01:02 PM.

  19. #19

    Do I need a factory crimp die?

    As stated above don't use the pistol style on cast boolits as they will resize the boolit itself. I have a rifle style 44mag die and like it very much, plus I don't have to readjust my seating die for crimping.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    I currently own a Lyman T-Mag II turret press and use Lee 4-die sets for pistol reloading. I'm a firm believer in the the "Factory Crimp" die and use it for every round I load... I also use the Redding Carbide resizing die on .40 S&W to "de-glock" the cases. Love Glock and hate to say de-glock when there are certainly other handguns out there that do not fully support the .40 S&W case and allow them to "belly" when fired.

    I average about 50 completed rounds per hour, which includes everything from start to finish. I even clean the primer pockets and re-prime by hand.

    I just upgraded to wet tumble case cleaning instead of dry vibratory case cleaning. This gives better results and even cleans inside the primer pockets. I started with a 15 pound wet tumbler and shipped it back because it was definately not "heavy duty" and could only clean about 200 .40 S&W per load which runs for 3 - 4 hours. I am currently waiting for the 40 pound wet tumbler that I just purchased and awaiting Fedex delivery. The 40 pound wet tumbler should clean about 2000 .40 S&W per load.

    I also just ordered the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP progressive press which should give me the ability to complete about 200 rounds per hour.

    When my wife and I go to the shooting range, we burn through from 350 to 500 rounds of ammo. That takes me anywhere from 7 to 10 hours to reload everything we fired for that one trip.

    I think I will always need 2 presses. Just can't see swaging bullets or processing cases on the progressive press. Also just purchased the EGW undersizing dies to clean up the stretched cases for my 9mm and 45acp and really can't see using those on the progressive press but I will certainly try. Brass is getting more expensive all the time and I'm doing everything I can to use every piece of brass I get my hands on.

    Hopefully Poolecw, this info will help you out on some future decision making. All though, I'm sure that a lot of people will disagree with what I just posted...

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check