I think Gear is on a mission - but few are listening - LOL
Don
I think Gear is on a mission - but few are listening - LOL
Don
OK , I admit that in the true sense of the word " wax is not a flux" is basically a true statement but if you want to get technical , nothing is a flux.
In fact the word "flux" literally means " flow" as in luminus flux means flow of light.
What about plumbius flux ? Flow of lead right?
Some things are fluxing agents or aka catalists for a reaction.
EG: Zinc-cloride is a great fluxing agent/catalist for fusing tin to copper with a deep intermetallic bond.
Just get some wax on your copper and you will not be soldering anything in that area.
But still the redneck flux like wax , motor oil , june bugs , cow manure or wood chips all help reduce oxides and release foreign materials from our alloy.
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
OK OK so wax is technicly not a flux but a reducing adjent but isnt that what we are looking for?
So since adding tin makes lead flow in a more fluid fashon would you call tin a flux?
I think maybe the word FLUX has more than one meaning and we are applying it in a wrong way.
Our purpose is not the same as that in the bonding of metals as in soldering, brazing, welding.
Our purpose is to not have it stick to anything pot, ladel, mold, or barrel.
This I do know when I flux or what ever word I should use for what I do to clean my melt and to reduce as much slag back into the melt as possible so there is as little wast as possible that which I do with burning wax and sawdust works for my purpose perty dan good no matter what its called.
How bout borax? Worked for blacksmiths and forge welding for a "little" while
That was my point were not trying to weld or solder just the oposite we want to avoid bonding.
Flux the word must have a dual meaning. Flux a copper pipe to get solder to stick but flux a pot of boolit alloy to render the dross and help clean it.
Flux means to flow. In metallurgical terms, or rather foundry terms, "flux" means to remove the impurities that prevent the quality flow of metal. Tin, actually, could be considered a flux because its surface oxide barrier characteristics in a lead alloy tends to allow the metal to act as if it has a lower surface tension, and thus "flow" better.
Most of the contaminants I've listed over and over again impede the casting quality of boolit alloy. Wheel weights are rife with calcium and aluminum these days, and both of those metals cause clumping and "gritty" alloy. Many people want to just dump in a pile of tin or crank the heat up all the way to try to make their scrap metal cast better, but a lot of the time I suspect it's the high content of impurities that is really causing the problem. "What do you mean, I "fluxed" three times with candle wax, my alloy is clean!" an astonished caster might say. Well, maybe not so much, because your wax didn't do what you thought it was supposed to.
See why I harp on the difference? Oxide reduction and contaminant removal are two completely different things, and if you use dirty/unknown scrap (that means wheel weights especially, and roofing metal, plumbing lead, battery cable ends, old sinkers, etc.) you especially could benefit from FLUXING with a borate or something like SAWDUST.
Gear
I've tried every known commercial fluxing product, as well as parafin, wax, crayons, Crisco, motor oil, etc. Sawdust is now the only thing I use. Keeps my melt and pot CLEAN, and occasional re-fluxing keeps the surface oxides in check. No stinky black smoke or blazing flareups.
Cheap to free and easy to come by. I will never again use anything else.
There is some ammo and more ammo. There is never enough ammo!
Is there a sticky on this topic? I reckon it would have to be one of those questions that keeps popping up and for you long time casters you'd feel like broken records.
I am a fabricator welder by trade- fluxing, oxidization and the surounding apmosphere are things I understand all too well from a practical side.
Gifted at putting all this into words or theory I am not!
Is a sticky a possibillity here about fluxing, charactoristis of usable material for removal of impurities, then fluxing.
A few pictures of coarse for us hands on type
Do you guys use sawdust while casting indoors? I tried it once and smoked up the whole shop. What's worse, what was left in there stunk to high Heaven. Smelled like someone burning leaves. I couldn't stand it. I scooped it out and swore I would never try it again. 'Course that was before I found out just how common a practice this is, so i figure I must have goofed it up somehow. Easy enough for a newbie like me. Too hot? Used too much? Not enough? Something? What did I do wrong? Are there some step by step instructions?
I started using cedar shavings. I use them in the dog house so I always have them around. They sure make the shop smell nice and do a good job of making the alloy clean as well.
I'm thinking I might try some hickory or pecan wood. I know a guy who cuts it for the local BBQ joint so I could get a bucket of chainsaw dust for free. I bet mesquite lead would smell nice!
I would leave the borates out of this. Yes, it does remove the impurities AND the tin, arsenic and anything else. And that says nothing about how horribly it gunks up your pot & tools.
No, actually that is chemically impossible. Wax does not, cannot remove the impurities. Yes, it will reduce tin and the things you want removed right back into the melt.
Particle board and/or OSB does work just fine but it introduces some nasty smoke that you really don't want to breath. Same with plywood because of the glue, it works fine but don't breath the smoke.
Not correct! We are not welding here. As Gear explained the terminology for a welder is different than it is in the metals industry and foundry's. Fluxing a melt is to remove impurities from the alloy, fluxing while soldering or welding is to remove oxidation (and oxygen) from the metals surface so the parts can join.
NO! Tin is not a flux, tin works by reducing the surface tension of the alloy entering your mold. Tin looses most of it's ability to do this past 750 degrees and also tin itself oxidizes much faster when heated past this temp. If tin where a flux it would remove impurities, it does not.
Rick
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Agree 100% on the borates, nasty stuff I won't use, but it DOES flux well. BTW, it only removes tin in oxide form, so if you reduce the oxides first, then apply the borate and stir well, it can remove the other junk pretty well. Sawdust is still a million times better, though.
Gear
One thing that I can say in defense of wax is that it will help release fine particles of impurities in the alloy that are not part of the alloy. You always get dust and even sand trapped beneath the surface that cannot break t he surface tension to break out.
After waxing , a goodly bit of dust/powders will be left on top for skimming. Sometimes you can even see grains of stuff trying to float out and waxing will allow it.
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
Now fellas, don't you remember when I was playing around with boolit lubes? I got out a hunk of brass and my soldering iron. I used every lube from BP to all the the other lubes I have. Every one let me solder just fine.
I was watching a lead smelting and casting operation on the history channel last week, huge pot of lead. They tossed in WAX!
Candle wax is more readily available so that is what I use.
I've been using candle wax to flux for years while pouring my lead fishing baits. I just started casting my own boolits & never heard of using sawdust before. I'll certainly try it out. Now it's off for more handy tips.
USAF (Retired) 1985-2005
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
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