Home Made BP Lube recipies?

[Boz330]

I put my extra in the freezer, you think that would work ok?

Bob

[G. Blessing]

There are these from Stumpkiller over at; http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com

I use the Moose snot for patched round ball, works great. I've got some with ivory soap in it instead of the murphys, is OK too. The murphys oil soap is great by itself in hot water for BP fouling clean up.

Copied from;
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fu...hp?tid/203261/

"
Stumpy's Moose Juice

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated if available) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools. "


G.

[G. Blessing]

oh yes... you beeswax and olive oil boys.. How do you measure these parts with one being a solid and the other being a liquid?

I put the olive oil in the can I use for my double boiler, and mark the level on the can. Pour out the oil, and melt the bees wax a bit at a time untill I reach the level mark. Put the oil back and mix.

Hope that helps.

G.

[Kenny Wasserburger]

Lubes:

A sticky subject at best.

That said, I have tried alot of them over the years. Most of the recipies work very well as long as a its over 30% humidity and the temps under 90.

Once you get down under 17% humidity and the temp is over 90 your in trouble, almost all the above recipies FAIL badly!

I have shot at Raton for over 10 years testing many many lubes and most have failed me at one time or another. In the long strings shooting Creedmoor with a big caliber that dumps tons of heat and powder down the barrel, (45-110) One and only one lube has so for worked for me. White Lighting the stuff Dan Theodore makes works period. Its not cheap although. Controling the barrel temp is a must but often times you dont have a choice. The American's Cup match that I shot in at Phoenix last week required you to get off a min of 18 shots in less then 30 mins. With the air temp at 93-96 and the humidity at 7% I used bore Dawgs. My barrel was so hot after the 18 shots that you could not touch it.

If your not going to shoot in HOT dry conditions then just about any of the old lube recipies work.

As expensive as it is to travel and the cost of rifles and lead and powder, DONT GO Cheap on the Lube.

My 2 cents worth.

Kenny W.

[montana_charlie]

Speaking of Dan Theodore, and his lubes...

I don't know how long ago Dan posted this recipe. And, I don't know if he developed it before he started selling lube. Another question I cannot answer is about how it compares to Dan's White Lightning.

The only thing I do know about this recipe is...it came from Dan Theodore, and it was posted on the BPCR (dot) net site a long time ago.
CM

"Great For Hot, Dry Conditions" - sourced from Dan Theodore

Ingredients, Procedures, Notes, etc.

All measures are by volume.

4 parts refined beeswax
2 parts LubeGard's "Valve and Assembly Lubricant"
2 parts anhydrous lanolin.

OR

5 parts refined beeswax
3 parts LubeGard
2 parts anhydous lanolin. "This makes a dandy lube for dry, hot conditions."

Note: LubeGard should be available at any NAPA Auto Supply store.
Note: Refined beeswax and anhydrous lanolin are available from: http://www.from-nature-with-love.com/soap/.

Melt the beeswax and anhydrous lanolin in a double boiler. Once both are well melted, add the LubeGard and stir for a minute. This lube works well for pan-lubing, as well as through a lube-sizer.

[Kenny Wasserburger]

Dan's White Lighting lube has no beeswax in it.

Kenny W.

[Bob S]

Kenny:

Where can I get some of Mr. Theodore's White Lightnin?

I Googled it, and all the hits lead back to forums discussions (like this one) giving it high praise, but no source/purchase information.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

[Kenny Wasserburger]

Bob,

Check The New ISSUE Of the BPCR news.

Gentleman Jim Products carries it and has a Add in the new issue of BPCR news.

Kenny Wasserburger

[Harpman]

I measure mine like they do on TV food shows, I grab a blob of crisco and say oh bout this much, for about hhmmm this much wax, a smithering of oil,seems to work fine, and a dabblet of lanolin..my screwed up way of doing this never fails in temps from 50-100 degrees....that Georgia sun

[rockrat]

I don't get BPCR news, so a website address where I can get some would be appreciated.

[Kenny Wasserburger]

Jim Terry does not have a web site.


Email him at gentlemanjimproducts@msn.com


He works for a living as a BLM blade operator. So he only gets home every 4-5 days.

Kenny Wasserburger

[wills]

I think Mr. Theodore is a member on one or both of these boards

http://groups.msn.com/BPCR
http://www.bpcr.net/forum/index.php

[DonH]

My understanding from those who have experimented extensively with lube ingredients and formulas is that the wax, for the most part, does little in the way of lubricating but rather is mostly a carrier for the other ingredients. Might not make so much difference with smokeless but with black powder I preder a lube with more going for it than the 50/50 blends.
My own lube is the same proportions as Emmert's with sheep fat/tallow inplace of crisco and canola oil replacing the veg. oil. I add one tablespoon of lanolin the mix. This blend works here in the Midwest for black powder and also with smokeless for schuetzen. A friend uses basically the same formula but has used other oils such as castor oil and mineral oi. I have watched him many times shoot 60 - 70 shots without blow tubing or wiping the barrel.

The Darr lube (beeswax, parafin, STP) works well for smokeless in handguns and rifles but is not for black powde. This from Barry himself fairly recently on the ASSRA forum.


BTW, all ingredients are measured in liquid form exc. for the tablespoon thing.l

[Black Prince]

Fellows, ya'll knoiw a lot more about this than I do, but one of the reasons the old timers used sperm oil when they could get it is because it has a high smoke point.

Today, oils that we can commonly get have smoke points as follows:

Sunflower 392 degrees
Corn 410
Grape seed 446
safflower 450
Almond 495
Avacado 520

It would seem to me, a novice, that the higher the smoke point of the oil used, the less burned on fouling you would have in the barrel. I am going to make some lube using the highest smoke point oil I can find using bees wax as the carrier and see if it makes any difference.

Have any of you boys more experienced in this sort of thing ever used any of the oils listed here with higher smoke points, and if so, have you noticed any difference in performance?

[felix]

BP, not only the smoke point, but what kind of smoke. Hard to really decide on what the mix should be, unless you are shooting in the conditions mentioned, like hot and dry, and then on the same day, if possible, cold and wet, and somewhere in between. I can't help but thinking that the final lube already exists, or can easily be made (via database of virtual components for building blocks), for all conditions and all powder formulations. No doubt the final product will be a polymer of sorts. Nobody is going to produce it for the gun world unless there is a demand and profits made. ... felix

[martinibelgian]

BP,
You forgot the smoke point of your beeswax... That's the weak point. And then there is the type of fouling left when it burns off. I don't use beeswax anymore, there's better lube carriers.

[montana_charlie]

one of the reasons the old timers used sperm oil when they could get it is because it has a high smoke point.

Gimme a minute and I'll recall which oil (available today) is supposed to be better than sperm oil...

I don't use beeswax anymore, there's better lube carriers.

Names...?

CM

[Char-Gar]

I have wondered about the use of Dexron III ATF in lieu of Sperm Oil as it was developed to replace Sperm oil in early automatic transmissions.

[felix]

Jojoba oil = sperm whale substitute for the most part. The felix lube mailed out from the big batch contained it, about 75 bucks worth. ... felix

[felix]

Bob, don't know about the freezer. Should work for some bugs, that's for sure. But, you never know which bug you have, and which bug does what to what. In other words, try it and see. ... felix