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Thread: Great results with Johnson Paste Wax

  1. #181
    Boolit Master


    Boerrancher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leadforbrains View Post
    Been usin JPW on my .32 win spcl rifle boolits. No leadin' at all.
    With a good high quality custom made home grown gas check, an alloy of 50% range scrap and 50% WW, the proper sizing, and a good heavy double coat of JPW I consistently shoot 2300 fps with 150 gr boolits out of my 30-30, and 2500 fps with my 30-06. There is no leading when I am done shooting.

    I don't heat my boolits or the JPW I just dump 'em both in a plastic jar and shake, stand up base first on wax paper to let dry. 24 to 48 hours later repeat the aforementioned steps then load and shoot. If sizing and or gas check seating is required size in between coats of lube.

    Best wishes from the Boer Ranch,

    Joe
    WWG1WGA


    Tyrants use the force of the people to chain and subjugate-that is, enyoke the people. They then plough with them as men do with oxen yoked. Thus the spirit of liberty and innovation is reduced by bayonets, and principles are struck dumb by cannon shot: Albert Pike, Morals and Dogma

  2. #182
    Boolit Master
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    Joe,

    I saw your group with your .30-30 from another "boolits" thread ....... I am very impressed!

    I may never look at a .30-30 the same either .........

    Three 44s

  3. #183
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by opcon4 View Post
    won't the wax eat away at the barrel?
    As far as I know I was the original used of JPW dating to the 1980's.

    I use it by slightly warming the bullets. In summer I would put them in a mayonnaise jar placed in the sun. In 15-20 minutes they would be plenty war. In winter I would place the jar next to a floor register for about the same time. They do not need to be hot, just warm enough to soften the wax not to liquify it.

    I add a small amount, I never measure it, and tumble until the bullets are coated. It is not necessary to fill the lube grooves. Just be sure the surfaces are all coated. Place bullets on sheet of wax paper and dry overnight.

    Unlike some users who insist on melting the wax I have never had a problem with the wax flaking. I recently found several boxes of reloads from 1985 that are as tight as when they were new. This after having been hauled from Oregon to Florida to California to Missouri.

    I agree with some shooters who reported that it leaves the bore slick and shiny. I have fired over 500 rounds through a cheap H&R revolver without cleaning and after running a dry patch to dust out powder residue the bore looked as slick as a porcelain dinner plate.

    When I lived in Oregon it was common practice to wax the gun including the underside of the barrel and action to prevent rusting. Waxing also helps reduce rusting due to body salt from perspiration.

  4. #184
    Boolit Master markinalpine's Avatar
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    I put a bore patch on the end of a rod, roll the patch in the unaltered JPW, swab out the bore, and the cylinders if using a revolver. Just a light coating. I find this helps when cleaning up the weapon after firing. I also use JPW to clean and protect wooden stocks, and to lube and protect the inside of semi-auto pistol magazines, and levergun magazine tubes.
    Any way you sell it,
    No matter how you spell it,
    When you start to smell it,
    BO Stinks!

  5. #185
    Boolit Master

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    Just found this thread in a search, lot of good info!

  6. #186
    Boolit Master
    Texantothecore's Avatar
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    Last night I lubed up 200 roundballs with room temperature Johnson's Paste Wax, 50 at a time in sandwich bags. Under 10 minutes for the whole batch. I will be shooting them this weekend and I am very confident that they will perform well.

    Can't wait.

  7. #187
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Well I just returned from my local Wally World, where they have an isle of clearance items. Right there, on the front, of that middle shelf, sat 7 cans of JPW, on sale, for $4.50 ea. Since these items usually aren't going to be stocked anymore, I grabbed them.
    No, I am not hoarding, I have 2200 sq ft of hardwood floors that love the stuff, and I use it on all my tools.
    I even waxed my old pickup with it once. It looked good to start with, but several months later it lost its shine and looked dirty.

  8. #188
    Boolit Master

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    I've been trying out the JPW a little over the past couple weeks and testing is not complete, but so far the results have been promising in reduced 44 mag and 30-06 loads on RD 432265s and Lee 309170s. I am just tumbling a double handful of freshly cast boolits with about a teaspoon of straight JPW. Letting it dry (haven't checked how long but I don't think it takes much more than an hour or two) then sizing the boolits and adding gas checks to the 30 calibers. The sizing process does make the wax flake off a bit, but when I retumbled them with another teaspoon or so of JPW, the fresh JPW solvent was enough to disolve the flakes and smooth everything out. I let the second coat dry, then added a 3rd coat for insurance. Even with 3 coats, the JPW is hardly noticeable on the boolits. Both loads are with Red Dot 5 grains with the 44 mag and 13 (thanks Ed) with the 30-06. I haven't done any paper work on the 44 mag just plinking, but have not observed any leading in either caliber. I've shot the 30-06 at 50 yards prone and think the load is probably around 2-3 MOA range off a bench. I'm looking forward to additional results...

  9. #189
    Boolit Master


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    I open the can of JPW and get it to melt quickly over my casting furnace. I leave it there enought to cook off some of the solvents and add a tablespoon of STP oil treatment. Then I use a pair of pliers to move the can of molten wax from a hot lead furnace to a heated crock pot.

    The bullets are dipped one at a time and placed on a cookie sheet standing up.

    They dry completely after 12 or so hours. I bag them in a zip loc bag and store in a refrigerator.

    After the JWP mixs cools and becomes solid again, I replace the lid and store for future use.

    The bullets shown are RD 165s cast from wheel weights. I will load them up to 1500-1600 fps in .30-30, .308 and .30-06 as cast without sizing or gas checks. No leading and they leave a nice shiny bore that is easy to clean.




    You can see some bullets leaning. These were not properly cast and will be remelted at future date.

  10. #190
    Boolit Buddy
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    Jay how do you like the Ranchdog mould you are using? Does it work well for you?
    I keep trying to stay afloat but can't help from shooting holes in my own boat.

  11. #191
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    cdet69, I have that Ranchdog mould and love it! I use it more than any other .30 cal mould I own. I even use it for Paper Patched boolits. I use a 50/50 JPW/LLA mix.

  12. #192
    Boolit Master


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    Great on the range. When gun season opens in two weeks, I'll let you know how it works on whtetails.

    The first couple of days, I will be hunting from a blind in dense woods. The max limit of visibility is 40-59 yards. I am using a 308 Police carbine(Remington 7600P) with a 16 1/2 barrel.

    It should do well with the RDs. Last year I used the 165 gr. cast bullets from Magnusbullets.com which are almost like the RD. I killed enough does and button bucks to fill a couple of freezers. I hunt on my Brother in Laws property and let him shoot any trophies that might happen by. He can keep the big horns. I hunt for backstraps, vension bratwurst, jerky, venison roasts and gumbo meat. I have not figured out how to cook the big horns that most people hunt.

    Unfortunately, I may have purchase the last 165 gr. mold from RD. They are going out of business and no longer list any .30 cal molds.

    Any of the old hands here can put you onto a similar mold from another company. Sorry.

  13. #193
    Boolit Buddy
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    Emailed Accurate moulds about making one for me. They responded that it is already a catalouge item. Will be the next on my list. I think I will make it a 3 cavity.
    I keep trying to stay afloat but can't help from shooting holes in my own boat.

  14. #194
    Boolit Mold Redhorse702's Avatar
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    Ok gents.. forgive my ignorance ... but do I understand that JPW replaces other cast bullet lubes totally WITHOUT leading?
    The heat from powder ignition doesn't cause fouling? If so can I add it to my patched round ball with 75 gr FFFG under it?
    Thanks..

  15. #195
    Boolit Master

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    Not a towel, but a toilet seat cover on the buffer. USMC! R.E. Buffing floors w/ JPA
    Last edited by fiberoptik; 10-19-2013 at 12:55 AM.

  16. #196
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Redhorse702,
    I may be late in on this thread, but to address your question, leading and fouling are different. Fouling is just the burnt residue from your powder, lube, patch, wad or whatever else my be in the cartridge/chamber when you shoot. Leading is the transfer of boolit lead from the boolit that adheres to your bore as it skids down the length the barrel. JPW really does a champion job of preventing leading.

  17. #197
    Boolit Master Slow Elk 45/70's Avatar
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    HUllo all , this is a great bunch of info brought together by our members, makes a great stickie
    Slow Elk 45/70

    Praise the Lord & Pass the Ammo

  18. #198
    Boolit Master

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    who/where can I get a ranch dog 30-30 mould?

  19. #199
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  20. #200
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    Hello to all: years ago when I was Teflon patching, a friend at one of the clubs I shot at made the comment that I should try waxing the bore of my rifles and shotguns in that it seems to make them "slicker". I tried it and "WOW" what a difference. between the 2 (JPW and teflon) it did make a big difference. NO LEADING plus accuracy plus speed. It seems any wax with a high carnubba wax content will work very well. just my .02cents worth. God Bless to all and theirs.


    Goofyoldfart aka GOF or Godfrey.
    A veteran is someone who, at one point in his life wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America " for an amount of "up to and including my life."

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check