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Thread: Great results with Johnson Paste Wax

  1. #1
    Boolit Master USARO4's Avatar
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    Great results with Johnson Paste Wax

    I just finished shooting 300 rds of Lee 124 gr TC, tumble lubed with Johnson's Paste Wax. The gun Was a Uberti-Colt clone. when I started shooting the bore was slightly dirty from shooting Alox lubed bullets, after shooting the wax lubed bullets it was squeaky clean, almost looked like there was a polished layer of wax coating the bore. Absolutely no leading. Anybody else ever get these results?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master in Heavens Range
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    Yes, it is the carnauba wax contained within the JPW. The proportion of carnauba is important in any wax you would make on your own to get what you see. That proportion is unknown until you make up various lube proportions of what you have on the table. ... felix
    felix

  3. #3
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    Yep, I've gotten the same results so far in 3 rifles. A long barreled 8mm Persian Mauser, French MAS 36 7.5x54, and an H&R Ultra rifle in .450 Marlin. In all cases the boolits dropped from the molds at diameters that I didn't want to size down any farther so I could maintain at least a diameter that was .015" over bore size. So, I snapped on the gas checks by hand and dipped them all in melted Johnson's Paste Wax, coating the driving bands while holding them by the nose. Ran them in the 8mm with a 175 grn GC boolit over 16-18 grains of 2400 up to 1850 fps; the 7.5x54 MAS was 18 grns of 2400 with a 190 grn GC boolit well over 1700 fps; and the .450 Marlin with a 500 grn GC boolit and RE-7 up to 1500+ fps. In each case I had a little powder residue in the barrel which I wiped out with a dry patch. After doing so all three bores were bright and shiney with an almost "wet" appearance. No leading and got a lube star on all three as well. Never tried JPW in handguns yet and have only run it up to 2025 FPS in a .444 Marlin (325 grn FNGC boolit) where I did get some slight leading, but I suspect boolit fit to be the culprit there and I will have to work on that load more before passing judgement on JPW's use above 2000 fps.

    All loads showed accuracy potential (even the .444 load) and I think its just a matter of tweaking those loads to get best accuracy.

    Hope this helps,
    -Matt
    Group Buys Honcho'd: C326-175-FN, 434-210-RF, C434-210-RF, 30-165-SIL-MOD, 358156-PB, 413-170-Keith, C348-225-FN, 8mm SIL, 45-230-CM, 45-270-Ohaus/SWC, Edd's 28-170-FN

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Where do you find this, in the cleaner section of a Wal mart, etc.?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master USARO4's Avatar
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    I bought mine at Ace Hardware for about 5 bucks a can. It's the type they use on floors. I remember buffing floors with it back in my Army days.

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    I'm A Honcho! montana_charlie's Avatar
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    I would be interested in hearing results of using JPW over black powder charges.
    If they are good, I'll put it on my 'list' of lubes to try next...
    CM
    Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by montana_charlie View Post
    I would be interested in hearing results of using JPW over black powder charges.
    If they are good, I'll put it on my 'list' of lubes to try next...
    CM

    My gut tells me that it wouldn't be a good idea. I think I read something once that B/P lubes had to be made of all natural ingredients and specifically nothing petroleum based. When heated up in a glass bowl on a hotplate the JPW gives off some "interesting" fumes; and I know from experience in the Army that the stuff is easily lit with a match and lighter. Smells a lot like melted 50/50 beeswax/allox lube. I always make sure to use it in a well ventilated area.

    Hope this helps,
    -Matt
    Group Buys Honcho'd: C326-175-FN, 434-210-RF, C434-210-RF, 30-165-SIL-MOD, 358156-PB, 413-170-Keith, C348-225-FN, 8mm SIL, 45-230-CM, 45-270-Ohaus/SWC, Edd's 28-170-FN

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    What would happen if you melted this stuff and poured into a lubrisizer?

    Hmmm.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonk View Post
    What would happen if you melted this stuff and poured into a lubrisizer?

    Hmmm.....
    Johnsons has a drying solvent agent in it.....I would imagine if it was left in the lube resovior very long at all..you would have a dry rock in your sizer....proably not a good idea...


    when I add JPW to a beeswax based lube...I always "cook" it long enough to ensure the solvent goes away....the carnauba in JPW is what I want when using it as an ingredient,,,not the solvent.

    as far a tlubing with it I have had good luck with it as well as a 50/50 mix of LLA/JPW up to light rifle velocities.....I use it alot on boolits not requiring sizing...works well

  10. #10
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    Well if it would harden too much then I won't do THAT, but I don't see the advantage over any other lube if you have to melt it to pan lube with it; I never much liked pan lubing but if I did, how is Johnson's better than any other method? This is why I like LLA for bullets I don't size.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonk View Post
    Well if it would harden too much then I won't do THAT, but I don't see the advantage over any other lube if you have to melt it to pan lube with it; I never much liked pan lubing but if I did, how is Johnson's better than any other method? This is why I like LLA for bullets I don't size.
    You use johnsons as a tumblelube and let it dry, just like LLA. I do not melt it for tl'ing, just when it is used as an ingredient in a wax based lube.....


    I own several sizers and I still panlube Certain boolits, I get better accuracy on the long skinnies with it over the lubesizers, and that is why....panlubing has it's places...

  12. #12
    Boolit Master duke76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dutch4122 View Post
    Yep, I've gotten the same results so far in 3 rifles. A long barreled 8mm Persian Mauser, French MAS 36 7.5x54, and an H&R Ultra rifle in .450 Marlin. In all cases the boolits dropped from the molds at diameters that I didn't want to size down any farther so I could maintain at least a diameter that was .015" over bore size. So, I snapped on the gas checks by hand and dipped them all in melted Johnson's Paste Wax, coating the driving bands while holding them by the nose. Ran them in the 8mm with a 175 grn GC boolit over 16-18 grains of 2400 up to 1850 fps; the 7.5x54 MAS was 18 grns of 2400 with a 190 grn GC boolit well over 1700 fps; and the .450 Marlin with a 500 grn GC boolit and RE-7 up to 1500+ fps. In each case I had a little powder residue in the barrel which I wiped out with a dry patch. After doing so all three bores were bright and shiney with an almost "wet" appearance. No leading and got a lube star on all three as well. Never tried JPW in handguns yet and have only run it up to 2025 FPS in a .444 Marlin (325 grn FNGC boolit) where I did get some slight leading, but I suspect boolit fit to be the culprit there and I will have to work on that load more before passing judgement on JPW's use above 2000 fps.

    All loads showed accuracy potential (even the .444 load) and I think its just a matter of tweaking those loads to get best accuracy.

    Hope this helps,


    You said you snapped on the gaschecks without running them through the sizer. I didn't know that was possible. I have never tried it but often wondered how I was going to put on gas checks and just figured I would have to have an oversized sizer die made. Does it work well or is it a pain? Are they on just as tight as running them trough a sizer? Is there anything special you have to do to the check?

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Ohio Rusty's Avatar
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    Is the J's paste wax or J's paste wax and beeswax put on thick enough to fill the lube grooves and let dry, or are the bullets just coated all over and the lube grooves aren't full, but have a coasting of the paste wax lube? I'm asking as I can't find a bottle of alox on any gun store locally, and I'm needing to have some lube for the bullets I have cast.
    Thanx ......
    Ohio Rusty

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by duke76 View Post
    You said you snapped on the gaschecks without running them through the sizer. I didn't know that was possible. I have never tried it but often wondered how I was going to put on gas checks and just figured I would have to have an oversized sizer die made. Does it work well or is it a pain? Are they on just as tight as running them trough a sizer? Is there anything special you have to do to the check?
    I have installed the gas checks several different ways depending on how hard they are to snap on the base shank. 1st method is to hold the boolit upside down between thumb and forfinger and press the check on with the other thumb. However, if this works you'll usually have a very loose fitting gas check that will spin on the shank. I hit these with a small drop of super glue inside the gas check before installing it on the boolit shank. 2nd method is to set a folded doubled over section of kitchen paper towel on the table and then set the gas checks on the paper towel base down; then I just take the boolit and press it into the gas check. Some of these that snap on with the help of the tables hard surface will still spin and if I find that they are then they get the super glue treatment as well. 3rd method I have used is for those where the checks are pretty much impossible to install by hand. I just use a sizer die that is .001" larger than the boolit to seat the checks squarely on the boolit bases. The slight out of roundness encountered with most boolits will provide enough resistance to get the check seated.

    Once the gas checks are installed by one of the three above methods then I just fire up the old hotplate (lowest setting) with the small glass bowl of JPW on it. Once the JPW is melted I hold each boolit by the nose and dip it in the bowl of melted JPW for 4-5 seconds with all the driving bands down in the JPW. Then I set them on a sheet of wax paper to dry. When a batch of 50 are done I also wipe the excess JPW off the bases on a sheet of paper towel and let them sit 24 hrs before loading.

    Hope this helps,
    -Matt
    Group Buys Honcho'd: C326-175-FN, 434-210-RF, C434-210-RF, 30-165-SIL-MOD, 358156-PB, 413-170-Keith, C348-225-FN, 8mm SIL, 45-230-CM, 45-270-Ohaus/SWC, Edd's 28-170-FN

  15. #15
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    duke76,

    I tried seating some .30 cal gas checks by hand and they seated fine. However, without crimping/sizing the gas check, it expanded the case neck as the boolit was seated. If the check went below the case shoulder, the rest of the boolit would fall into the case, so obviously this didn't work for me.

    John

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonk View Post
    Well if it would harden too much then I won't do THAT, but I don't see the advantage over any other lube if you have to melt it to pan lube with it; I never much liked pan lubing but if I did, how is Johnson's better than any other method? This is why I like LLA for bullets I don't size.
    Johnsons is better than LLA in that it does not gum up your seating die as badly, is far more readily available, and is much cheaper.

    My method of application is to preheat the bullets, usually in a two pound coffee can on my wood stove, before adding a couple of dollops of JPW and tumbling. The wax coats much more evenly on bullets still cool enough to pick up, but hot enough so you don't want to hold them long. For me, this is as easy as LLA.

    I've been very happy with the results in pistols and pistol caliber carbines. It seems to be suitable for any plain base bullet load I use although I'll stick with more normal lubes for GCed bullets.
    Sometimes you gotta wonder if democracy is such a good idea.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Scrounger's Avatar
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    Group Buy On Johnson's Paste Wax???

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    Boolit Master Ohio Rusty's Avatar
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    I stopped by Meijer on the way home, and they had maybe 8 cans of Johnsons Paste wax on the shelf. They have one less now. This seems to be a hard item to get as most stores don't carry it. I assume that is because not too many people use paste wax for floors anymore since most flooring is now maintenance free. I'm looking forward to trying it as that JPW plus the beeswax I have can make me 20 pounds of boolet lube for about 5 or 6 bucks. 20 pounds of Lee Alox would be $487.33......... The paste wax lube sounds like a real winner to me.
    Ohio Rusty

  19. #19
    Boolit Master Ricochet's Avatar
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    Smile

    Rusty, you should've gotten in on the just completed Alox Group Buy.
    "A cheerful heart is good medicine."

  20. #20
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    I apply it almost identically to leftoverdj's method, warming the bullets in a 175 degree oven with the door slightly open in a metal container (old tin can).

    To distribute the lube, I use a cut off one gallon plastic milk jug, with a diagonal cut through it that removes the screw on top and about one third of the jug but leaves the handle on.

    Dump a dollop of Johnson's in the bottom of the jug. Not too much at first; always easier to add than drain away. Dump warmed bullets on top. Swirl. Observe the sides and bottom of the jug; if there's a light wash of Johnson's on it you're right; you don't want a big pool of wax on the bottom. Dump on waxed paper to dry. That's it.

    Excellent for my 25-20 plainbase hunting loads. Lube is sufficient, hard, does not rub off or collect grit. Works on standard lube groove bullets or tumble lube design.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check