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Thread: Casting hot glue boolits

  1. #121
    Boolit Master
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    Drill it out with the case chucked in a drill press and put a drill bit in the vise at a 90. Hope you can picture that.

    I drilled the case out so that the 209 will fall out, but you need to cut the rim down a bit to get the action to close, I did that in the drill press also with a file.
    Doug
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    Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollow points expand on impact.

    Taxidermists are cheaper than surgeons....keep shooting

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  2. #122
    Boolit Master GrizzLeeBear's Avatar
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    Just a thought. Could you drill out a .357 case for a 209 primer? 209 primers are more powerful than mag pistol primers right? Would give you a little more oomph for shooting gluelits in a revolver without getting into using powder, etc.

  3. #123
    Boolit Master
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    You could, I actually did that with 30-30 brass.

    Why more oomph when a magnum rifle primer WILL end a possum?
    Doug
    .................................................. ........................................
    Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollow points expand on impact.

    Taxidermists are cheaper than surgeons....keep shooting

    ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Some people measure success in Minutes of Angle

  4. #124
    Boolit Mold
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    Glueitts for the shotgun

    As the R&D department of NAG appears to be busy on other projects, I thought I would try to make some slugs for the shotgun, having had more fun than a man should with gluitts in various pistol calibers. I used the Lyman Foster mould in both 20 and 12 gauge using the procedures mentioned above. Good fill out was obtained by placing the tip of the glue gun into the sprue hole and filling until the mould started to separate. I found out later that it is best if the mould does separate a little as this will make a tighter fit in the case; the excess must be trimmed, but because of the hollow base it can be squezzed into the case. I found that Hornady one shot case lube works well to guarantee release from the hollow base insert. The best results were obtained with my 20 ga coach gun with 20''barrels. Cutting off the fold crimp made the fit a little easier. Do not shoot your neighbors cat with this load!!! The 12 ga was shot out of a single shot break open with 28'' barrel and cylinder choke; this was not quite soimpressive as the 20 ga.

  5. #125
    Boolit Master
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    wbwizzard....we need more info.
    Powder, primer, shotcup?
    Doug
    .................................................. ........................................
    Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollow points expand on impact.

    Taxidermists are cheaper than surgeons....keep shooting

    ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

    Some people measure success in Minutes of Angle

  6. #126
    Boolit Master
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    I'm curious. Don't you have point of aim problems? When I shot plastic bullets years ago they shot SO low that I couldn't get my sights anywhere near point of impact.

  7. #127
    Boolit Bub Chiefs50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricochet View Post
    Get an air gun.

    I've got no sympathy about the cold motorcycling. I used to ride my Harley and bicycle in all sorts of weather.

    Not too many folks want to try that up here in N. Wisconsin/Upper Michigan.

    Mike

  8. #128
    Boolit Mold
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    Doug, this was using just a win 209 primer, no powder as I thought this would be a violation of gluitte regulations. They worked best with the folded crimp cut off and the gluitte seated flush with the end. No wad was used as they contacted the case tightly. They showed no preference for either full or modified choke and were just a couple of inches below point of aim at 40'. I have only shot a few with the 12 ga and they don't seem to have quite as much power, for several reasons I would assume, heavier slug, more air resistance and larger volume for the for the explosive gas to expand into. Next, I want to try this in my winchester 9410; since I do not have a slug mold for this, I'll have to try round balls.

  9. #129
    Boolit Bub
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    Great thread.
    I'll be shooting tomorrow!

    Did you NAGS decide on an official distance for precision shooting?
    Inside, and perhaps backyard?
    Glueblit silhouette anyone?

  10. #130
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    Update for glue slugs in shotguns; my first attemps with the 12 ga was not spectacular. After giving it some thought, I figured that the slug was not tight in the shell so I tried it again, this time pushing the slug all the way to the bottom, thus making a very tight seal as the inside of the case is tapered. Was I ever surprised; the slugs broke apart in the barrell, and this with a cylinder choke. That will be the end of that experiment. The round balls in the 410 didn't go much better. The round ball did not fill the barrel and therefore accuracy was poor. I tried making a bullet trap so the balls could be reused, but at 20' the ball went through 3 layers of corragated cardboard and two bath towels. May be best to let the idea of glue slugs in shot guns die,

  11. #131
    Boolit Buddy
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    Neat idea, but I don't get going with the over sized primmer. Wouldn't it be so much easier just to add a touch of powder?

  12. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by RU shooter View Post
    I have been keeping up with this thread for a while now and just had to give it a try this morning I had an old lee 160 gr TL mold in 31 cal. and cast up some gluits and came out perfectly they weighted in at a svelt 12.5 grs! I had the 03A3 standing there so that was my test bed. drilled out a primer hole to 7/32 and lubed with balistol oil . primer was a CCI regular LR pushed the gluit into the neck . Now the moment of truth!!!!!!!! Puffffff! my little gluit never made it half way down the tube! so I added .5 gr of red dot and it worked well and still very quiet. But that kinda defeats the purpose of this whole thing . Whats size must I drill out the primer hole to accept a shot shell primer?
    Next step is to cut the base of the bullet shorter and to trim the nose off some to make it shorter and less weight in hopes it will atleast exit the barrel. Any other ideas from the Gluit wizards.
    Since the "purpose of this whole thing " is fun fun fun ...cheap cheap cheap it doesn't sound to me like adding that .5 gr of red dot would have defeated the purpose at all.


    Question for the experts, if you are still paying attention to this thread.
    If I wanted to add powder instead of using a magnum primer, would it make sense to put some sort of wadding between the powder and the glue stick, to keep the glue stick from heating up and leaving residue on the barrel? By doing so wouldn't it be possible, in theory, to build a round that reaches a little better target accuracy velocity? Outdoors of course!

  13. #133
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
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    If you add just a tiny bit if powder, you can use some toilet paper rolled up lenghtwise, then placed into the case to protect the bullet base.


    Does anyone know if these will work in a 30 inch barrel in a .40+ cal centerfire rifle? I imagine i'd have to use a tiny bit of powder at the very least to get it down such a long barrel.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  14. #134
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunfreak25 View Post
    If you add just a tiny bit if powder, you can use some toilet paper rolled up lenghtwise, then placed into the case to protect the bullet base.

    That sounds like it should work really well! Should it be rolled pretty tight?

    I found a website that sells wax bullets for cowboy shooting. It says you can fire them with primers or add gun powder. It gives load data for using powder. The weight of wax bullets has to be really close to that of a glue stick the same size. I'm going to cast a wax plug the same size as the glue stick to compare.

    I was thinking of giving the end of the glue stick a few turns with a pencil sharpener, not to sharpen it all the way, but to give it the shape similar to a "Keith bullet".
    Last edited by delmar; 02-19-2009 at 06:18 PM.

  15. #135
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    OK here is what I have so far. I am thinking of making it longer than cast bullets so that it takes up much of the room in the case. Any ideas?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails plastic bullet.jpg  

  16. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by JFriis View Post
    All right, how about some numbers?

    Chronograph placed 1' in front of target, target shot at 15'. Both sets were shot offhand, unsupported with a S&W 1911 PD (Commander Length).

    Test #1 - Standard brass (Not drilled).
    Average bullet weight 22 grains.
    Average Velocity - 420 FPS.
    5 shot group was right at 2". Would have been 1.5" except for one shot that may or may not have been me.


    Test #2 - Brass drilled with 1/8" bit

    Average bullet weight 22 grains
    Average Velocity - 400 FPS.
    5 shot group was right at 1.5".

    Both tests had a wide deviation in FPS, =/- 15 fps either side of the average.
    A long range test was performed with a single shot at 50 feet. The chronograph had a result of 358 FPS and the shot itself was fairly close to point of aim.
    Energy calculations place this at 8ft lbs of force (Not sure what that means, but a 25 ACP is around 50 ft lbs if I recall correctly.)
    Most of the recovered bullets were fine except of few that appeared to have shattered after hitting the plywood backstop. 80% recovery rate and 75% of those are reusable.
    If I am reading this data correctly, it shows that drilling out the flash whole did not improve performance. Is that correct?

  17. #137
    Boolit Buddy Gunfreak25's Avatar
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    Well when I made some wax bullets for my 9mm auto i did it the redneck way. Took a 9mm shell, stuck it in some wax all the way down, used a razor to clean off the mouth of extra wax, primed it. I walked 5 yards away from my target box, and put 3 shots (single shot of course) in less than 1 inch grouping, exactly where I wanted them. Needless to say it surprised the hell outta me for just some wax bullets. I recovered one of them that didn't melt to badly, it had rifling engraved into it, and was mushroomed out like a hollow point .

    The toilet paper only really works the easiest in rifle loads, like .45-70 (straight walled cases).
    For small pistol loads, if you find the base of your glue boolits or wax boolits are melting, you can cut a small cardboard circle and lay it in the bottom of the case, if you add powder it would be underneath the cardboard gas check.

    Later i'd like to experiment with some cast glue boolits in my 71/84 rifle. I was thinking a fired and unsized shell, primed with a Federal 215, and loaded with 3 maybe 4 grains of Red Dot would give some decent velocity to such a big bullet traveling down a 31 inch barrel. Course after charging the case i'd have to stuff in some toilet paper down there to keep the powder at bay. With enough TP I probably wouldn't even need a cardboard shim to protect the base of the bullet. It's tricky to load bottlenecked style cases with wax or glue boolits, but doable providing you add enough filler.
    "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time, with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." -Thomas Jefferson

  18. #138
    Boolit Buddy
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    I really haven't had a lot of luck reviving this old thread, so perhaps Gunfreak25 and I can just talk among ourselves. Seems like the brass that is only use for firing plastic bullets could darn near be reloaded indefinatly, don't you think?

  19. #139
    Boolit Mold
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    its been to my expierence that glue casted bullets lodge in the barrel too easily and they are a real pain to get out ive tried every kind of lube imaginable but its inebitable due to the heat of the primer melting the back of the bullets so i have always trimed them down with a knife till they will just fall down the barrel and put a point on them if in a lever action rifle i dont use exact science on this type of thing

  20. #140
    Boolit Mold
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    If yall would like to see a glue stick being shot out of a .45 acp 1911 ammosmith did it on youtube but as you can see it was done at a smaller diameter than an actual bullet

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check