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Thread: New to casting, looking for ideal mold for 9mm

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    New to casting, looking for ideal mold for 9mm

    I got into reloading a couple of years ago, and am now a junky. I've reloading commerical cast bullets, but I'm thinking of getting into casting my own. I can get a moderate supply of wheel weights from tire shops, so I'm hoping to save some money too. Primarily, I want to start with 9mm and see where it takes me. I've read a number of reloading manuals, including Lyman's casting handbook. My question is if I were to use wheel weights as my primary alloy, with no additions, what would be the ideal setup? Since I'd be working with a brinell of around 9, would it be better to go with a lighter bullet weight and two lube grooves to reduce pressure and leading? Since I'm new, any advice would be great. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    williamwaco's Avatar
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    Since you are new and I assume with a limited budget to get started in case you decide you don't like it.

    Mold. Lee 2 cavity 356-124-TC
    Sizing Lee .356 or .357 sizing kit ( includes an almost lifetime supply of lube.)
    One one quart zip lock bag to tumble the bullets. Beats the other methods six ways from Sunday.

    Since you are already reloading I will not mention press and dies etc.

    If you buy a pot, do not get the little Lee ten pounder, It is a toy.
    Go with one of the Lee 20 pounders depending on whether you want ladle or bottom pour. Keep in mind you can ladle from a bottom pour pot but you cannot pour from a ladle pot.

    You will initially have trouble getting good bullets. keep at it, they will come.
    99% of all bad bullets are caused either by something ( usually oil ) in the mold or by the mold being too cool or too hot.

    There are a zillion posts here on dealing with poor fill out.


    Best wishes.
    First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
    More at: http://reloadingtips.com/

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  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks! Is there much of a difference between the common mold brands like Lee, Lyman, RCBS, or Saeco?

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Sir,
    There is a big difference in price and features of those mold manufacturers. Start with the Lee and later graduate up to higher end molds if needed. In 9mm and 45 acp, I use Lee six cavity as they are faster and easier to use. My Saeco and Lyman molds for this caliber are rarely used as they are slower and heavier . As to bullet lube: while the bottle of Lee Liquid Allox will go a long way, its hardly a life time supply but its cheap and many thousands of bullets will be lubed for that lone bottle. Or, I have lived up an entire lifetime already and am on my 14th lifetime with bottle 14 on hand now.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master




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    I might recommend starting with a 2 cav Lee mold. They're cheap enough and because they only have 2 cavities, they heat up faster (a common newb problem) and are just easier to use for a new kid. The 6 cav's are even broken often if operated too cool. Make life easy on yourself, early on.
    The Lee molds aren't my favorite, but they're OK. They work. You might try the Lee 356-120 TC. It's a good boolit. I would personally get the standard loob gruv design. Not a tumble lube fan.
    Let us know how it works out. enjoy Mike
    Politicians are a lot like diapers. They should be changed frequently, and for the same reason. Benjamin Franklin

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Please note that most 9mms perform best with .357 or .358 diameter NOT .356 diameter.

    I agree on Lee 356-120 TC to start, suggest conventional lube and use NRA formula lube to start,
    follow the recipe for the first ones and experiment after you have success.

    Air cooled wwt alloy will be fine, pan lube with NRA 50-50 and use a Lee .357 pushthru sizer
    or shoot unsized at .358 diam if that is what they drop at.

    Avoid the Lee Factory Crimp Die like the plague that it is, use an ordinary taper crimp die
    as a separate step.

    This may help:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...s-in-a-new-9mm

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master UBER7MM's Avatar
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    I'm thinking you may want to go with a harder alloy than wheel weights in your 9mm. Your experimentation will be the deciding factor. The above advice given is good. Lee equipment is an inexpense way to start out casting. Their molds are about 1/4 the cost of steel molds.

    Happy casting/reloading,
    Uber7mm

    Bambi: The great American hunting story as told through the eyes of the antagonist.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    AC wwts work fine in all my 9mms.

    Bill
    If it was easy, anybody could do it.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Follow MtGun44's advice. Also consider expanding the case with a .38/.357 expander. If you're going to try tumble lube, PM me.
    there are things you need to know about those pills if you want success.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master




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    Yes, S. If you are having problems, like lead left in your barrel, it won't be because you cast from straight air cooled WW's. It will be because you have other problems - like boolit diameter or possibly even lube issues. Keep us posted. We like to hear success stories. Mike
    Politicians are a lot like diapers. They should be changed frequently, and for the same reason. Benjamin Franklin

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by S. Galbraith View Post
    Thanks! Is there much of a difference between the common mold brands like Lee, Lyman, RCBS, or Saeco?
    With the little things like quality, precision, durability. Yes, there is a HUGE difference.

    Rick
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    "Let us remember that if we suffer tamely a lawless attack on our liberty, we encourage it." Samuel Adams

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  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

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    9mm Para. surely isn't the easest caliber to cast bullets for, but it can be done with a little patience. My suggestion would be slug the barrel so you'll know exactly what you're working with and ferget BHN for now; wheel weight alloy will suit you fine. Ain't nuttin' wrong with Lee equipment and a sizing die .002" larger than your barrel's groove diameter will get you started. Currently I've been trying Lee's 125 gr. RNFP, sized to .358" in my 2, 9mms, with pretty good results.
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lee 2 cavity 356-124-TC. Every 9 I own loves this boolit

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lee 6 cavity 125 grain have cast 30K plus with two molds and use them with good results for local pistol competitions. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/658...2-ogive-radius
    "He who walks with the wise grows wise,
    but a companion of fools suffers harm."
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wilson View Post
    Lee 6 cavity 125 grain have cast 30K plus with two molds and use them with good results for local pistol competitions. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/658...2-ogive-radius
    That is the only 9mm boolit that casts large enough to work for me. The LEE .358 125 gr. RF works very well also. Both sized at .358

    Shiloh
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  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by captaint View Post
    I might recommend starting with a 2 cav Lee mold. They're cheap enough and because they only have 2 cavities, they heat up faster (a common newb problem) and are just easier to use for a new kid. The 6 cav's are even broken often if operated too cool. Make life easy on yourself, early on.
    The Lee molds aren't my favorite, but they're OK. They work. You might try the Lee 356-120 TC. It's a good boolit. I would personally get the standard loob gruv design. Not a tumble lube fan.
    Let us know how it works out. enjoy Mike
    Thanks for all the great advice, guys. Instead of the tumble lube method, what do you prefer?

    Since I use a Dillon 550 for reloading, I'm going to either have to get a single stage or Lyman 4500(or alternative) to do my sizing. At this point, I don't really need another reloading press, but the Lee C model looks cheap enough. I guess its all a question of whether I want to spend a lot up front, and whether the 4500 is worth it in the long run.

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub Dewey606's Avatar
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    What are the issues with the Lee Factory Crimp Die?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check