What dies for my new 30/30?

[crabo]

I did a deal where I got a like new 336 in 30/30. I had a Noe mold for it, so I needed a gun. What are the best dies for boolits in the 30/30? Two or three die set?

Are the RCBS Cowboy dies worth the extra expense?

Thanks,

[Four Fingers of Death]

I use a 310 tool and at times, a set of plain old RCBS dies. Not that I am all that fond of RCBS, but I picked them up used on a trade.

I have never used the cowboy die sets,but a lot of folk here wax lyrical about them. They are apparently spot on for use with cast boolits.

No doubt others with experience with them will chime in.

[Nobade]

Yes, I have a set of the RCBS Cowboy dies and really like them. It's a 3 die set, first full length sizes but not as tight as regular dies. Second is like a M die and opens and flares the mouth, third seats. For boolits they are really nice, and you don't have to buy an additional M die. And they're case hardened with brass lock rings so they look cool.

[largom]

My first choice for any rifle die [at a modest price] is Hornady. The reason for this is their seating die which use's a sliding sleeve to center the case and boolit for straighter loading.

Larry

[LUCKYDAWG13]

i got my first set of redding dies a few weeks ago they make the rest of my dies
look like junk. but these are for a 223 my 30/30 dies are RCBS they work ok
but i will upgrade as i can

[Ed in North Texas]

My general rule for any cartridge which will not be used in competition (which is all of them since I had a hip replaced - hard to do positions/get into them quickly now) is any full length die set with a Lyman M die (and a Neck Size die added where the rifle action allows). My oldest die sets are Lyman All American Deluxe (3 die) sets bought in the '60s, and along the way I've added RCBS, Hornady, Redding, Lee and C-H 4D sets. Except for neck expand dies, I'm an equal opportunity die buyer (but since retiring I tend to go to Lee more often if I have to buy new).

Just my quirky answer.

Ed

[1Shirt]

Will probably get flamed for this, but I have had good luck with the cheapest of Lee dies. As to 30-30, I am still using a set of Herters dies that I bought in the
60's and my M94 likes the loads. There are some decent buys on dies on E-Bay.
I have after all is said and done however prefered Redding dies.
1Shirt!

[Olevern]

My first choice for any rifle die [at a modest price] is Hornady. The reason for this is their seating die which use's a sliding sleeve to center the case and boolit for straighter loading.

Larry

+1 on the Hornady, and for exactly the same reason.

[crabo]

The barrel is a MicroGroove. What are most of you guys sizing to?

[jh45gun]

The Lee dies work fine for my 30/30 and I like the FCD. For what it is worth the worst set of dies I ever had was Hornady they were in 45/70 and I could not keep a decapping pin in them kept on breaking finally I took it back to the store said you deal with it and give me some Lee Dies and never looked back. I have Lee and RCBS dies and both work fine.

[Maven]

crabo, I used to own a #336 Microgroove .30-30 and discovered that it shot CB's sized to .310" better than those sized to .311". I also used Hornady New Dimension dies to partially FL size the brass with no difficulties at all (sizing or loading the rounds into the rifle).

[mortre]

I only have one set of lee dies, and I have been singularly unimpressed. It's a 9mm die, and has no way to lock in any of the settings. So I have to reset the case belling die and seating die every time I use it. Not a big deal I guess, but I like being able to just set the crimp/seating/belling and forget it. I use a single stage press though, a progressive with a "plate" and my opinion might be different.

Also, every time I reset the seating stem there is what looks like aluminum shavings...

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[1Shirt]

My 94 Win 30-30 will shoot some boolits best at .310, and others better at .311.
Suggest trial and error. If you call Hornady, bet you would find that they would make good on any of their dies. The company is excellent, customer service is excellent, and Steve Hornady, is one fine gentleman!
1Shirt!

[Omnivore]

I like to use two seat/crimp dies for the 30-30-- one for seating only and one for crimping only. The M die or something like it is a must for cast bullets in the 30-30 also.

[smoked turkey]

No doubt Hornady makes some wonderful reloading equipment. I have their big Projector progressive and think they are on the cutting edge of ammo development with products like SuperPerformance ammo, LeveRevolution (or however it is spelled) bullets, and their Dangerous Game line of ammo. However I have found their dies with the sliding sleeve get gummed up with lube. I guess my slightly oversized boolits and my Alox lube get the system gummed up and not knowing how to deal with this situation and cast boolits, I shy away from the sliding sleeve concept and have found that RCBS always works and works better for me.

[Firebricker]

I've use an old set of Lyman dies made in the 60s then picked up a 310 M die with a 7/8-14 adapter. I also picked up a Lee FCD but all I use is 311041 and the Lyman seater puts on a perfect a roll crimp.

But if I was going out to buy a set it would be the RCBS cowboy set. At under $60 it's really not much more than a regular set of rifle dies if you factor in the third die. Plus if you wind up sizing a little over the cowboy set will probably more forgiving.

I load for a 94 Winchester but we were shooting my reloads out of a friends 336 and couldn't believe how well it shot them. If micro-groove don't like cast boolits that rifle didn't get the notice LOL And these were sized at .309 with BL-c 2 FB

[Four Fingers of Death]

I only have one set of lee dies, and I have been singularly unimpressed. It's a 9mm die, and has no way to lock in any of the settings. So I have to reset the case belling die and seating die every time I use it. Not a big deal I guess, but I like being able to just set the crimp/seating/belling and forget it. I use a single stage press though, a progressive with a "plate" and my opinion might be different.

Also, every time I reset the seating stem there is what looks like aluminum shavings...

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The Lee lock rings are designed to fit on the head of a progressive press where space is limited. When I remove the die, I grasp the lockout until I break the torque (I also grab it here when screwing the die into the press). Once through lock nut is free of the press, I then take the die body in my fingers and unscrew it. Doing it this way, I don't disturb the setting. HaHa, it took me a while to figure this out. If you only use a single stage press you can swap out the lockrings, they are pretty cheap. I like the split ones that clamp on the thread. I think they are Hornadys.

The shaving is most likely lead. I used to get this when I used a tight crimp. You can avoid this by crimping in a separate operation.

[singleshot]

For cost and ease of use reasons, I went with a Lee die set and Lyman expander. The Lee set works fine for J-words and the Lyman expander allows me freedom with boolits. Has worked well for everything I've used it for. I bought this before I saw the whole discussion about RCBS Cowboy dies, but may not have been able to part with the extra cabbage anyway.

[jimkim]

I size to the largest diameter that will reliably chamber. I use either Lee 30-30 dies with a 7.7mm Jap expander pin or some older Pacific Durachrome dies.

[mortre]

The Lee lock rings are designed to fit on the head of a progressive press where space is limited. When I remove the die, I grasp the lockout until I break the torque (I also grab it here when screwing the die into the press). Once through lock nut is free of the press, I then take the die body in my fingers and unscrew it. Doing it this way, I don't disturb the setting. HaHa, it took me a while to figure this out. If you only use a single stage press you can swap out the lockrings, they are pretty cheap. I like the split ones that clamp on the thread. I think they are Hornadys.

The shaving is most likely lead. I used to get this when I used a tight crimp. You can avoid this by crimping in a separate operation.

I figured they were designed with progressives in mind. And I have never loaded lead/cast in 9mm, only plated. So it can't be lead, sure doesn't look like copper either.

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