Survey: What Lead Temperature do you Cast?

[dave_g]

All good info but meaningless to others unless you also mention the liquidus point of the alloy you're using when you cast at 700F.

Gear

Can I check my answers with you before I post next time?

[cat223]

No clue. If they are wrinkly - hotter. If too frosty - cooler.

Numbers mean little, it is performance.

Bill

OK, maybe I'm just simple minded but I think I can work with this formula.

[Jim..47]

I use the melted lead temperature. In other words I have no thermometer. Maybe some day, dang things sure are expensive.

[DLCTEX]

I voted 650-675 but that is subject to change depending on alloy and mould. I cast inside in a heated and air conditioned room, so ambient temp is rather constant. I usually cast with WW alloy, so majority is in the stated range. I do preheat my moulds on a hotplate and find that helps cast at a lower temp than I was before.

[H.Callahan]

I use the melted lead temperature. In other words I have no thermometer. Maybe some day, dang things sure are expensive.

I don't want to presume what your personal financial situation is, but NOE has a lead pot thermometer for $26.00 (http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...products_id=30). As compared with other things used in our addiction, it is pretty reasonable. I think you can find an equivalent thermometer online for even a bit less, if you are really having to pinch pennies....

[Papa smurf]

I don't have any idea what the temperature is and really don't care ! Been casting for 60 years and just seem too know when the pot looks and casts right. I use a lot of scrap lead and it doesn't all cast or melt the same. Don't think a thermometer would really help Never had any problems , but have been having lots of fun all these years. Good Shooting to all------------------ Papa Smurf

[Jim..47]

I don't want to presume what your personal financial situation is, but NOE has a lead pot thermometer for $26.00 (http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...products_id=30). As compared with other things used in our addiction, it is pretty reasonable. I think you can find an equivalent thermometer online for even a bit less, if you are really having to pinch pennies....

Thanks for that link, Lt. Callahan! That looks reasonable enough, but can you tell me at what quality level it is? If I'm going to buy one I want it to last a while. Finances aren't that tight, but my better half is wishing I'd never bought this Glock in 40 S&W. Its all the add on stuff that keeps making it expensive. But aside from the thermometer I only need one more die. The Lee 90060 cast bullet sizer. I wouldn't get that either except my hands welcome the relief of being able to use my Rockchucker instead of my Lyman lubersizer. Those things are incredibly uncomfortable and crippling.

Thanks again for the link. If this one is of low life expectancy what one do you recommend? I was looking at those lazer therms. but they are quite a bit.

[H.Callahan]

Thanks for that link, Lt. Callahan! That looks reasonable enough, but can you tell me at what quality level it is? If I'm going to buy one I want it to last a while. Finances aren't that tight, but my better half is wishing I'd never bought this Glock in 40 S&W. Its all the add on stuff that keeps making it expensive. But aside from the thermometer I only need one more die. The Lee 90060 cast bullet sizer. I wouldn't get that either except my hands welcome the relief of being able to use my Rockchucker instead of my Lyman lubersizer. Those things are incredibly uncomfortable and crippling.

Thanks again for the link. If this one is of low life expectancy what one do you recommend? I was looking at those lazer therms. but they are quite a bit.

It is very good quality. Obviously, if you are going to hit it with a hammer or throw it up against a wall, it won't last as long. Seriously, as long as you take reasonable care of it, it will last quite a while.

I wouldn't look at the laser thermometers for the lead pot. If you have good clean lead (which you should have), it has a highly reflective surface, which confuses the bejesus out of the lasers (they ARE good for taking mold temps, though). Also, a dial thermometer sits in the pot the entire time allowing you to check temps at a quick glance while you are casting rather than having to stop and fumble to get a reading from the laser. It is easier to spot trends (getting hotter or getting colder) with constant measurement.

[Jim..47]

[QUOTE=H.Callahan;2176454]It is very good quality. Obviously, if you are going to hit it with a hammer or throw it up against a wall, it won't last as long. Seriously, as long as you take reasonable care of it, it will last quite a while.

I wouldn't look at the laser thermometers for the lead pot. If you have good clean lead (which you should have), it has a highly reflective surface, which confuses the bejesus out of the lasers (they ARE good for taking mold temps, though). Also, a dial thermometer sits in the pot the entire time allowing you to check temps at a quick glance while you are casting rather than having to stop and fumble to get a reading from the laser. It is easier to spot trends (getting hotter or getting colder) with constant measurement.[/QUOTE


Thats good enough for me. I certainly appreciate getting advice from you guys. Much better then 20/20 hind sight.

[Adam10mm]

I aim for 700 degrees and if I'm +/- 25 degrees I don't sweat it.

[detox]

With Lyman #2 i cast between 650-675. With Linotype i cast between 550-600. Less tin oxidation at these lower temps when using the ladle.

[Jim..47]

I guess its kind of silly to ask this, but what kind of problems or difficulties to you have casting at this low of temps?

[detox]

I guess its kind of silly to ask this, but what kind of problems or difficulties to you have casting at this low of temps?

I have no problems, just slightly larger diameter boollits. BTW Linotype machines cast as low as 535 degrees.

[Jim..47]

Ahh, ordered my Noe cast thermometer last night.

[detox]

Here is verygood information on casting temps.
http://www.lasc.us/Kelter_Cast_Bullet_Alloys2.pdf

[GRid.1569]

Up to 725 for me with range scrap & Lee 6 cav moulds...

Got a hotplate to pre-heat moulds (especially NOE brass 360-180) but haven't had a chance to use it yet...

Hope that might mean I can run cooler as the Alu moulds seem to start frosting unless I slow down @ 725...

[Smoke4320]

Linotype... I cast between 550-600
just getting started again after years off and learning all over

[TenTea]

I am a CIT (caster in training) who spent a day last weekend with someone who has been casting for ~50 years and I was told:

*The best rule of thumb for a universal alloy casting temperature is 800 degrees F.*

I don't have enough experience to disprove the theory, but I will soon own a thermometer to aid my semi-scientific guess.

[Marlin Junky]

Rather than edit my earlier post I decided to add the following:

Within the last few days I began casting .35 caliber pistol boolits again (which is what I started casting 40 years ago sans a couple months!) and checked my pot temp last night after some fiddling:

It averaged approx. 640F while using RCBS 35-200 (yeah, it's a peestol boolit!). Obviously, your alloy and pouring system will dictate how much heat you need in your furnace.

Always pre-heat your molds before casting and I'd like to say a word about that subject. If you've got a mold in your hot lil' hand that you've never used before, set it on a hot plate until the cavities and all shinny external metal turn violet or dark blue. Ah... you say, you've got an aluminum mold! Chances are even if you've got an aluminum mold with an aluminum sprue plate (you poor devil ) it still has a steel sprue pivot... it needs to turn violet before you pull it from the hot plate.

MJ

P.S. Referencing the post directly above, even Lyman who taught folks casting using their pathetic little nipple dipper, suggested a pot temp of 750F. Unless you're casting with something other than an alloy based on approximately 90% Pb, you're wasting time, experience, money, etc. by setting your furnace at 800F. 800F is probably about right for hollow based Minie´ Balls; however, I can't say that for certain because I'm an accuracy buff who has never cast a Minie´ Ball because it was a stop-gap infantry approach invented by a Frenchman at a time when 75 yards was considered long range.

[CAVEMTNMAN]

Linotype and Monotype - I cast bet. 800 & 850 with LBT mold.