OO buck and charge bar

[rcav8r]

I have yet to cast any good OO buck from my lee mold (just some quick attempts, at the end of a slug casting session), but I'd like to know what size of MEC charge bar will hold 9, 00 buck?

I'm hitting the reloading shop tomorrow, and if any of the charge bars I have now aren't the right size, I will see if they have it in stock.

[Bren R.]

I don't load buckshot loads myself, but it's my understanding that most that do hand-place the pellets in to get the correct loading pattern.

Bren R.

[turmech]

I do load buckshot. Ben R is right load them by hand. But I have not actually tried using a charge bar for it just know MEC does not recomend it and I could not see it working with one.

[williamwaco]

Been a very long time but when I was loading shotgun shells, I remember that the larger the shot, the harder it was to operate the charge bar.

I wouldn't even think about trying to use 00 buck in a charge bar.

[sargenv]

It gets interesting trying to drop shot with anything larger than about #4 lead.. I don't drop steel below size 6.. it's too much work..

[shotman]

drill it out to 1in should work

[Bullwolf]

I have always stacked 00 buck pellets up by hand into the wad, when making my own double ought buckshot shells.

I do the same thing (hand insertion) for my Lyman slug load.

For 00 buck, I do a 2x2 stack job so my standard 00 buck load is an 8 pellet, or other even number of pellets load.

I could never get 9 pellets to crimp correctly with my recipe for a 2¾ 12 gauge shell without totally changing the components all around.

I have a progressively harder time moving the shot charge bar, as the size of shot gets larger, so I can't really imagine how the shot bar would meter even #4 buck.

Since I'm not using the shot/powder bar on the MEC press for my 00 buck or slug loads (as it is normally set up for light trap loads) I use a Lee scoop instead for my charges of Blue Dot, or whatever powder that I happen to be using at the time for heavier loads.

I also double check the Lee scoop powder charge weight on a scale before placing it under the wad, but I'm just paranoid that way. I don't really use the Lee scoops all that often, but this always seemed like a perfect application for them.


- Bullwolf

[6pt-sika]

I stack 00 buck in my 10 gauge loads . I also stack #1buck in my 10 and 16 gauge loads . With #3 and #4 buck in the 10 gauge I hand drop .

[ovendoctor]

charge bar wont work
gota hand stack them in the case
you can still use the bar to meter the powder just leave the shot container empty
stacking in pairs work great
they hit the target in pairs about 1'' apart

Doc.

[r6487]

look at some of the youtube vids, they hand stack and tamp (gently) the buckshot--i was gonna get the lee 00 mold until watching youtube--have ordered the 00 mold from sharpshooter (www.buckshotmold.com) instead--the lee trickle thru for 3 buckshot seems to not work very well as reported by those who have purchased and tried it. the buckshot doesn't break apart either. one guy was using a box cutter on a board to separate them--the sharpshooter also requires cutting them off a sprue also.

[ovendoctor]

look at some of the youtube vids, they hand stack and tamp (gently) the buckshot--i was gonna get the lee 00 mold until watching youtube--have ordered the 00 mold from sharpshooter (www.buckshotmold.com) instead--the lee trickle thru for 3 buckshot seems to not work very well as reported by those who have purchased and tried it. the buckshot doesn't break apart either. one guy was using a box cutter on a board to separate them--the sharpshooter also requires cutting them off a sprue also.

I am very happy with my sharpshooter mold
as with any mold ya gota get er hot to work
if you have problems with the hing pin just replace with a shoulder bolt and your good to go

Doc.

[Nix]

I have to agree with the other folks here; I load shotshells exclusively with a MEC press and I don't think it's possible to use a chargebar for large buckshot. The MEC works volumetrically, which is fine for small shot that pack together tightly. For large buck, you're just not going to get the consistancy you need for even load weights (which is critical for consistant accuracy) and that's IF you can even get it to drop the loads to begin with. Lastly, don't forget a major component of consistant and accurate buckshot patterning is pellet formation. Just dumping shot in is not going to be consistant in terms of stacking in 3's or 4's. My guess is you'll also have major issues when it comes time to crimp as most folks have to 'tamp' the shot down in the first place to make sure it's good and tight or you will experience clearance issues.

I load all my buck by hand; yes, it's time-consuming but the results are excellent and well worth the effort.

As regards moulds; I sell both in my shop and having used them at great length I have to agree, go with the SharpShooter moulds, they are hardier and do a better job IMO. One suggestion for other casters considering them, if I may; I have found that pouring each side of the SharpShooter mould as one continuous strip (intentionally letting a little lead trickle between the cavities as you work your way down the mould) greatly speeds the process of cutting the pellets afterwords. Instead of 10 sprues with two pellets each, you'll simply get two large sprues with 10 pellets each from every casting; you just hold one with one hand and snap the pellets off into a bucket or jar with the other. WAY faster than screwing around trying to grab all the little sprues with two pellets each.