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Thread: Powder Coating Boolits

  1. #141
    Boolit Buddy
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    Just thought of something - silicone withstands 400 degrees for 20 minutes easily. In fact, the Sears PC gun comes with some silicone plugs for masking off holes.

    Wonder if it would be too hard to make a silicone mold to hold boolits? A jig for certain ones for that matter. Wouldn't be conductive of course but you could spray them bottom's up, bake, then spray standing up on foil for a top coat afterwards. It'd make it a 2-step process but if you made a jig for standing them up it'd go a LOT faster. (That's usually the biggest pain.) They sell silicone mold making supplies at some craft stores.

  2. #142
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Here is where you can get the pro grade.

    RIO GRANDE LAPIDARY

    http://www.riogrande.com/Product/Zer...s/701227?***=6

    I have dealt with them for OVER 30 years and never a problem.
    WE WON. WE BEAT THE MACHINE. WE HAVE CCW NOW.

  3. #143
    Boolit Buddy olaf455's Avatar
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    Re: Powder Coating Boolits

    Bizzy lately, looking forward to more xperementin...

    Sent from the cold Northwoods.
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  4. #144
    Boolit Buddy ryokox3's Avatar
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    Can someone please help explain how to set up the powder coating with an Irfrared heater, in my case I have the recommended optimus H-5210. What I'm doing is I'm propping my sheet of metal covered with tin foil about 6 inches off the floor to get in the center of the heat. I put the heater on high, and close as possible to the boolits. I tried a few rows but the ones in back were not 'melting' the powder, and even the front ones were not doing well.

    To make it work I had to make a tin foil cover... like a box or an oven. Should I need to do that? How close do you need to be to the object to melt the powder?

    Thanks in advance,
    Ry

  5. #145
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    You MUST get the boolits up to temp or the powder will not flow nor will it bake the coating. Your back rows are just to far away from the heat source and any slight breeze will also deflect heat. A small oven as mentioned is your best friend as it keeps everything at a measured temp and prevents wind cooling.
    WE WON. WE BEAT THE MACHINE. WE HAVE CCW NOW.

  6. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryokox3 View Post
    Can someone please help explain how to set up the powder coating with an Irfrared heater, in my case I have the recommended optimus H-5210. What I'm doing is I'm propping my sheet of metal covered with tin foil about 6 inches off the floor to get in the center of the heat. I put the heater on high, and close as possible to the boolits. I tried a few rows but the ones in back were not 'melting' the powder, and even the front ones were not doing well.

    To make it work I had to make a tin foil cover... like a box or an oven. Should I need to do that? How close do you need to be to the object to melt the powder?
    Not sure, typically the IR heaters are used for larger items that won't fit in an oven; the best way as Bill mentions is to use an actual oven that retains the heat. Your box is acting as a sort of oven, but probably isn't retaining the heat so well. The powder has to come up to ~400 degrees and stay there for at least 15-20 minutes. Easiest thing to do is buy your wife a new toaster oven and take her old one for this. (At least, that's what I did.) Otherwise you can get a new one at Walmart for ~$30 or so. You just don't want to use an oven that will be used for food later on as these powders can release fumes (and who knows if they're toxic or not.) Definitely do it with ventilation - that being said, I do mine in my office here at the house, with the door directly behind my desk open and a fan blowing the fumes out.

  7. #147
    Boolit Master
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    The only problem I see is we have 240V power in Oz were's you guys use 110.Those powder coating guns are a great idea. Pat

  8. #148
    Boolit Buddy ryokox3's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies guys. I went with the heater as it was reviewed well for this purpose and I have several items around the house that I want to powdercoat, which will not fit inside a toaster oven.

    I use a harbor freight heat gun to get the boolits warm before coating them. My first coating attempt was ok, the second try went much better. All in a line at the front, and covered to make my foil oven. Maybe I'll get a toaster oven also to use just for boolits and small things.

  9. #149
    Boolit Master
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    Are you using a regular or a convection toaster oven?

  10. #150
    Boolit Bub
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    what do you use for voltage for powder coating

  11. #151
    Boolit Bub
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    just did some research.the sears powder gun comes with everything but powder and oven,right?

  12. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by N1YDP View Post
    just did some research.the sears powder gun comes with everything but powder and oven,right?
    That was what was in the big box the brown truck delivered yesterday.
    WE WON. WE BEAT THE MACHINE. WE HAVE CCW NOW.

  13. #153
    Boolit Buddy ryokox3's Avatar
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    Some results

    Here are some firing results. This is my first batch of pc boolits, so they were not as nice as the others you all posted. First pics show them this morning. The last 3 are after firing. One picture right as they came, the other 2 had a light rinsing to remove some surface dirt. Mushroomed boolit was around 10 yards into the berm. The other 2 are at about 50 yards into a berm.

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  14. #154
    Boolit Man
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    I have a question I can't find the answer to, for gas check bullets how do you size them? with lube then wipe off?, with no lube? or if you PC first then size will the GC still fit on the base? I'm a simple man.

  15. #155
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    Pop a gas check on and run through push through sizing die. Works perfectly.

  16. #156
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jailer View Post
    Pop a gas check on and run through push through sizing die. Works perfectly.
    Jailer, are you saying put a gas check on a non lubed, non powder coated boolit and run it through the sizer?

  17. #157
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    ryokox3 - Thanks, very good. How do the grooves look? Nice & sharp? Any PC left on the CB bore? To me it looks like only the grooves have any left but I can't get the pic resolution up enough to tell.

  18. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by doubledown View Post
    Jailer, are you saying put a gas check on a non lubed, non powder coated boolit and run it through the sizer?
    Add the gas check and size after they are powder coated.

  19. #159
    Boolit Man
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    Thanks Jailer, I'm going to give this PC a try and see how it works. I have some real long bearing surface bullets I cast and I'm interested to see how well it works.

  20. #160
    Boolit Buddy ryokox3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    ryokox3 - Thanks, very good. How do the grooves look? Nice & sharp? Any PC left on the CB bore? To me it looks like only the grooves have any left but I can't get the pic resolution up enough to tell.
    Unfortunately I lost the coating on both the lands and grooves. A little remained but not much. I'm not sure if I cured them enough though. They look like they are cured, but this was the first batch I did pc on, so my technique may not have been there yet. I'm going to look for a used toaster oven at good will to see if I can get better results from a constant measured 400 degree temp as opposed to my ir heater..

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check