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Thread: Powder Coating Boolits

  1. #61
    Boolit Bub
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    I just bought a .309 push through sizer for my lee 230 gr blackout boolits. I they measured .309 as cast and now they measure .311 to .312 with powder coat. Im going to load some this weekend and see how they do. I cant see how these boolits could cause any leading, I believe the correct sizing is just going to affect accuracy.

  2. #62
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    So I found a somewhat decent solution to the filet that appears to be working - it requires a tad bit of prep work (and a handful of gas checks) but it's a huge improvement over me tearing the foil off the bottom.

    First I place a handful of gas checks (I've been using 30 cal) upside down on the bare baking sheet:

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    Then I place my foil over the top and wrap it over nice and tight:

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    Then I simply take something soft (bunched up paper towel, sponge, whatever I have laying around) and impress the gas checks underneath so they sit up higher:

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    When I'm done, it looks like this, and I set the boolits directly on top of the gas checks. If there's a fillet, it doesn't really form very well and most of my boolits just pop right off (instead of being stuck.) For anything larger than the gas check they really do come off easier! Even for 30 cals it makes it easy.

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    I thought about using neodymium magnets (so they'd stay in place easier) but they lose their magnetism with the elevated heat. The gas checks do the job nicely anyway.

  3. #63
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    I have had my brain in gear on this, What about steel pins to put the boolits on, keeps them raised
    so not to get a edge on the bottom. I have not tried yet, just thinking out loud.
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  4. #64
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    What about putting the boolits on pins to keep them up off the foil?
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    I will defend this country from anyone or thing that tries to take it from me or mine
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  5. #65
    Boolit Buddy olaf455's Avatar
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    Re: Powder Coating Boolits

    Others have used hex nuts to good effect. Slightly smaller than the boolit.
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  6. #66
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    Problem isn't keeping them off the foil - if you put the pins (or gas checks for that matter) on top of the foil, then the fillet forms on the pin or gas check and the foil - meaning you have to tear the pin or gas check off the foil to reuse it. Far easier to put the gas checks underneath - then what little fillet there is (if any) is still boolit > foil. I had originally tried putting the gas checks on top of the foil and that just made it a big pain to get the gas checks off the boolit and you got powder coated gas checks (albeit, only around the rim of course.) With them underneath the foil, the boolits pop off with ease, some of them don't form anything at all and they just lift off as you'd want them to.

    Small hex nuts would work fine too most likely.

  7. #67
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    Another issue I'm running into is coating long boolits (i.e. the Lee TL309-230-5R for the 300 Blackout) - if you space them too close together, you get a "shadow" on the boolits behind the front row you're spraying. You have to space these particular ones out a bit more than handgun or shorter rifle boolits or you won't get complete coverage. Handgun and short rifle boolits don't really have this problem.

  8. #68
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    Has anyone done any chronograph or pressure checks for powder coated vs. lubed bullets?
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  9. #69
    Boolit Man
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    This subject really seems to be uncharted waters in terms of best practices, materials, chrono, pressure, etc. Google searches pretty much all lead to this site and this thread.

    I hope to have a HF powdercoat gun in hand today to get some first-hand knowledge on the subject.

    I'd also love to see what PC boolits could do in an AR. As it stands, we know cast can work if you have reasonable expectations on performance. But could PC bump the envelope out somewhat toward j-word levels?

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpratl View Post
    Has anyone done any chronograph or pressure checks for powder coated vs. lubed bullets?
    Quote Originally Posted by xyankeeworkshop View Post
    This subject really seems to be uncharted waters in terms of best practices, materials, chrono, pressure, etc. Google searches pretty much all lead to this site and this thread.

    I hope to have a HF powdercoat gun in hand today to get some first-hand knowledge on the subject.

    I'd also love to see what PC boolits could do in an AR. As it stands, we know cast can work if you have reasonable expectations on performance. But could PC bump the envelope out somewhat toward j-word levels?
    If everything works out right I should have some results this week.

  11. #71
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    I had some 9mm pressure tested . Used powder coated bullets and moly coated bullets. Pressures and velocity were the same.

  12. #72
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    I wonder if PC could replace GCs. Possibly make a slurry of evaporating solvent, dip and cook with the CB on it's nose? The nose doesn't really need to be coated. Like a plastic paper patch? Use a IR lamp instead of the toaster oven? Looks like I'll make a trip to HF this week. More fun. Never done any PC, is it applied electrostaticly? Time to make a wire basket. I coated the base of pistol CBs before and it worked well, just a PITA.

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    I wonder if PC could replace GCs. Possibly make a slurry of evaporating solvent, dip and cook with the CB on it's nose? The nose doesn't really need to be coated. Like a plastic paper patch? Use a IR lamp instead of the toaster oven? Looks like I'll make a trip to HF this week. More fun. Never done any PC, is it applied electrostaticly? Time to make a wire basket. I coated the base of pistol CBs before and it worked well, just a PITA.
    The part is negatively charged and the powder clings to it. Very simple process.

  14. #74
    Boolit Buddy olaf455's Avatar
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    Re: Powder Coating Boolits

    Jacketed velocities are easily achieved, but due to lower friction a slightly faster powder needs used. The only downside I have found with PC boolits in my AR has been getting groups smaller than 3moa... I'll be trying harder alloy next time. The possibility exists that powder coat is just too slick...
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  15. #75
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    A product called liquid 2 powder is available for 'dipping'. It appears to be water based. Powder materials used appears to be polyethylene or polyurethane. Curing temp is ~ 350-400 and IR lamps can be used. Not sure this is an advantage to the polyethylene liquid I'm using to 'dip'. I didn't get leading in 40SW, but didn't resize so I got a lot of scraped lead left in the bbl. Accuracy wasn't worse than with LLA. Pressure was higher due to oversized CBs, like I FELT it, didn't cause any problems.

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by olaf455 View Post
    Jacketed velocities are easily achieved, but due to lower friction a slightly faster powder needs used. The only downside I have found with PC boolits in my AR has been getting groups smaller than 3moa... I'll be trying harder alloy next time. The possibility exists that powder coat is just too slick...
    What boolit are you using in you ar? Do you size them after coating? What powder are you using? What speeds are you shooting them at? Just a little info please so I know what to avoid or I know where to start. Thanks

  17. #77
    Boolit Man
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    The possibility of using PC'd boolits in an AR is (IMO) a big, big deal given the expense of getting started in swaging from rimfire cases. I'd also imagine there is a less-slick powder out there somewhere.

    Olaf, did you get a chance to get a good look at the before and after condition of your barrel? I know PC is tough and slick stuff, but j-word velocity in a 1:7,8, or 9 twist...yeeesh.

  18. #78
    Boolit Buddy Catsmith's Avatar
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    thinking about a way to leave the front end exposed, making like a soft point for hunting. thinking of aluminumwith holes to place tip in. for instance swc with hole for rim to rest on. could you soften alloy a little for better expansion while the pc acts like jacket for the trip down the tube. am i off base with this?
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  19. #79
    Boolit Buddy olaf455's Avatar
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    Re: Powder Coating Boolits

    I have a DPMS LR 308, I use the lee 309 170 grain round flat boolit. I sized to .308, coated, then sized .309.
    The bore condition prior to firing, was cleaned and all copper removed. The bore condition after firing was cleaner yet... Smooooth, very shiny. Alloy was wheel weights plus about 1 percent tin, air cooled.
    I used Powder by the Pound's liquid to powder product as well as their deep burgundy metallic polyester TGIC powder.
    I tried coating them by tumbling them in the mixture, which is 50 percent powder and 50 percent liquid by weight. It did not work as the liquid product seems to be nothing more than distilled water with an additive to reduce surface tension. Possibly soap. however when it dries, it is no different than if you had magnetically applied the powder. Any touch wipes it off... Then I tried an airbrush and it worked well, however it is difficult to coat evenly.
    I have tried a verity of loads from 2000 to 2400 fps, and all have given 3 to 4 inch groups at 100 yards.

    Coming up, I'll try harder alloy, sizing larger and static coating. Possibly find something else to mix the powder coat with that will dry hard allowing boolits to be handled prior to baking. Any ideas?
    Last edited by olaf455; 12-03-2012 at 09:01 PM.
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  20. #80
    Boolit Buddy olaf455's Avatar
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    Re: Powder Coating Boolits

    Quote Originally Posted by xyankeeworkshop View Post
    .

    Olaf, did you get a chance to get a good look at the before and after condition of your barrel? I know PC is tough and slick stuff, but j-word velocity in a 1:7,8, or 9 twist...yeeesh.
    I have not had the chance to inspect any recovered boolits yet, however I have several gallon milk jugs full of water waiting and ready to go... Bore indicates no problems whatsoever.




    Quote Originally Posted by Catsmith View Post
    thinking about a way to leave the front end exposed, making like a soft point for hunting. thinking of aluminumwith holes to place tip in. for instance swc with hole for rim to rest on. could you soften alloy a little for better expansion while the pc acts like jacket for the trip down the tube. am i off base with this?

    I was thinking of building a jig by taking a board just smaller than my baking tray, drilling holes for the noses to fit snugly into and yet be loose enough to fall out when inverted. Insert boolits nose first, spray powder, cover with parchment paper and then baking tray. Invert, remove jig, bake... Sounds good in theory right?... Course that's for liquid2powder... Possibly alum plate for static application?
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check