I don't have a chrono, I NEED to get one. The problem load was fired in my Remington sps tactical bolt with a 20" barrel. I have been using it as a test mule. (No gas system to junk up). And I have higher power scope on it. I have red dots on my ar rifles. Using your numbers, I am asking a lot of the coating!
Ok the TGIC is a chemical manufacturing method. Part epoxy part polyethylene. The most prevalent and lowest cost. My guess is HF is TGIC,as it has a minor hazard warning. There are some high temp 2part coatings.
It's a big thread so I might have missed it but which coating has worked best for people? Is there a special type of composition that might suit itself best for this purpose?
What kind of temperature resistances are we looking at here for 223 in the 2500fps region?
I'm not sure I shouldn't hold off on the powder coating yet, it's an investment of 150 euros minimum, cheaper to just buy a new die for my star sizer and shoot them lubed, I haven't even tried how that would work out.
Not sure any of us really know. I've chased through many pages of manufacturing data sheets (even india where the HF is made). I found some that has a hardness of 2H-4H, but we are pretty much limited to buying whatever the small quantity suppliers will give us. My SWAG is we are limited by frictional heating which depends on fps and bbl length. IMHO it works for my 40 and solves the alloy/leading/sizing trial and error; same accuracy and no leading, hard or soft alloy, sized properly or not. Makes casting simpler. Will it build up like moly and if so will it clean out easily? Don't know.which coating has worked best
After powder coating the bullets on aluminum foil covered plate, the base of the bullet is always a little uneven due to the powder coat not being even around the base.
After a lot of trial and error attempts it has been discovered the aluminum foil with the LLA and MEK coating will result in a bullet with a much cleaner base but there is still some difficulty installing the soda can gas check.
Simple rubbing the base of the bullet on some 250 grit shop paper easily removed the powder coat from the base and the gas check were easy to install.
To make the process faster a small piece of plastic was drilled through the center and split with a hack saw.
This piece of plastic was put in a cordless drill and the bullets inserted in the hole so the bullet could be rotated by the drill.
This methods allow the base of the bullets to be cleaned up in seconds with the 250 grit paper.
The pictures below show the plastic and the drill.
The process works good and the gas checks fit the bullet well and the gas checks go on easy with the pushing thru an inverted Lee push thru sizer.
The bullets can easily be pushed in and out of the plastic once the grip is adjusted by the grip of the drill chuck on the plastic.
The bullets in this picture are 95 grain 9mm used to load a 380 auto case.
This process does add a little time in preparing the bullets but once the soda can gas check is installed on the powder coated bullet the bullet can be driven in the jacketed bullet range of pressure and velocity.
Why not check it before coating? Once I get a better idea of how to best do the high v rounds I will make my molds (the joy of machining). Also has anyone tried to make coated hp?
I check mine before powdercoating, if you can make your own molds, make 70grain plain base for a 223. I would love to see the results.
If I had something to shoot it from I would. First one will be a 40 s&w 160 to 170gr hp (torx bits for hp pins) and 160gr .312 for 7.62 and 308 hog guns (love that wild bacon). The T&D guys at work are helping design the cutters. First ones will be hand machined 1 cav, but once the cutters are made (custom mills for cnc) I will make some 4 and 6 cav. Molds for pc (no lube groves and plain base) are simple to make cutters for, and I might make some 4 cave pc boolit molds. Tomorrow I go pickup the pc gun (hand dipping is slow) and maybe a new face mill.
One thing about a 22 mold that might be an issue is keeping the temp up. It might be good to alternate bigger bullets between the 22 cavities if you were making say a 6 cavity, put some 38 wadcutters in between them if you have a 38, those might be cool powder coated and just a reamed or circle milled hole would work fine I bet.Originally Posted by Raven_Darkcloud
I have one 30 caliber 100 grain or so 6 cavity mold and it is a bear to get enough heat into just by casting to keep it running.
Both ends WHAT a player
Per NOE directions, you keep a hotplate where your working to preheat the mold. I have a cheap non contact thermometer to monitor mold temp. I am still a rookie and 22 cal!
This guy:
http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/view...?f=141&t=82162
He figured out later to put the boolits on wires so he could coat the entire boolit (base included.)
If you make a 308 mold that works well, I would be interested in purchasing 1 from you...
Sheep Dog
Minutman
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On last Saturday I cast 1000 357 bullets for 38 Special.
Bullets 158 grain SWC. Time to cast 2 1/2 hours with Magna Caster.
Also cast bullets for 44 Mag on same day.
Sunday Powder Coated and Sized 1000 bullets, Lee push thru sizer. Time 9 hours.
Sized while powder coating additional bullets.
Put on Soda Can Gas Checks on Wednesday Night. Time to install gas check 3 hours
Total time for 1000, 35 caliber bulets 14 1/2 hours.
Need to find a faster method to Powder Coat, counter top oven will not hold enough bullets.
The casting goes well and the Magna Caster, the machine makes very good bullets.
The sizing with the Lee push thru sizers takes time but other bullets are cooking while doing this.
The installing of the gas check takes time but do not know of a faster way of installing using the upside down Lee push thru sizer.
Did not count the time to make the gas checks, use same gas check on 35 cal and 9 mm bullets, make several thousand at a time.
It would be nice to complete this amount of bullets in 8 hours, still scratching my head ???
Rekon you need a bigger oven.
Maby give Hi-Tek coating a try.
Sheep Dog
Minutman
Boyscout
Contructionist
Patriot
I have an old in-wall oven you're welcome to if you'd like. It's a double-oven and could hold quite a few boolits! Just needs 220v feed. It worked when I pulled it, perfect for powder coating stuff.
Hmm. Mixed boolit molds........ That's a great idea. If I can get an ar or any 223 rifle (have almost 800rnds of 223 brass im hording) I plan on adding one. I could mix .224 and .312 then I would be dbbl duty casting. So should it be a 5cav (2 .312 x 3 .224) or 6cav (3x3). That is one to think about. The question is if with a pc boolit it is better with or without gc. What do you guys think?
If you want to keep the 223s warm it seems you would need a 5 cavity.
Snuggle the 223s between the bigger ones.
Gotta keep them little guys warm. Remember
WE WON. WE BEAT THE MACHINE. WE HAVE CCW NOW.
Test results were great today with the 70 rounds I made up. Used the usual 4.5 gr of Win231 like I usually would for a fair comparrison between cast lubed and cast pc bullets. How and why it took you 14 hours bestone5 is beyon me. I have a small oven but could fit several hundred bullets on it. And maybe because you're using a lee sizer that takes longer than a star? Not sure what to tell ya man but that's a lot of time
Since you are using flat points, have you considered coating them nose down to get the PC to become your gas check?
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| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
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| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
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| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
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