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Thread: Powder Coating Boolits

  1. #2361
    Boolit Mold
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    OK, I've been reading posts about PC for two days now, but nobody actually said anything about what kind of paint is used from the three I know: Polyester, Epoxi and Hibrid. Some guy in Spain mentioned that the right is Poly. Any input? Too old to spend time in front a freaking computer.
    Last edited by passyric; 07-25-2016 at 11:04 PM.

  2. #2362
    Boolit Master flyingmonkey35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by passyric View Post
    OK, I've been reading posts about PC for two days now, but nobody actually said anything about what kind of paint is used from the three I know: Polyester, Epoxi and Hibrid. Some guy in Spain mentioned that the right is Poly. Any imput? Too old to spend time in front a freaking computer.
    If i read your question correct.

    PC =powder coat paint.

    It is a paint that comes in a dry powder form. That when heated cures to a plastic. That is very tough and slick



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  3. #2363
    Boolit Mold
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    "It is a paint that comes in a dry powder form. That when heated cures to a plastic. That is very tough and slick"
    And it has at least three different formulas: Epoxi, Polyester and Hibrid.
    If I knew at least what HF powder paint is.
    Thank's

  4. #2364
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    Quote Originally Posted by passyric View Post
    "It is a paint that comes in a dry powder form. That when heated cures to a plastic. That is very tough and slick"
    And it has at least three different formulas: Epoxi, Polyester and Hibrid.
    If I knew at least what HF powder paint is.
    Thank's
    I heard HF is an epoxy.
    Lead bullets Matter

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  5. #2365
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    HF is epoxy, Smoke's is poly. Hybrid is $$ and not used much here, someone is using a hybrid clear coat they like. Lots here like the poly but HF red works fine for hot 308W. I can't tell any real difference in accuracy.
    Whatever!

  6. #2366
    Boolit Mold
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    Thak You Popper and 62chevy.

  7. #2367
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    I mixed HF red and Smoke's black for a nice dark cherry color - shot fine.
    Whatever!

  8. #2368
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    Quote Originally Posted by bstone5 View Post
    A conductive coating could be applied to the aluminum foil before the bullets are set up.

    A thin layer of carbon from an acetylene cutting torch with the oxygen turned off should make a conductive coating of carbon that the powder coating would not stick to the aluminum foil.

    I too apply powder coat to pistol bullets with very good results.

    The powder coat results in no lead in the barrel and the barrel is very clean after several hundred of fired rounds.

    The next time I coat some bullets I will try coating the foil with carbon from a cutting torch.

    I tried some case lube one time in a very thin layer on the foil but the lube sort of insulated the bullets and the powder coat did not stick very well.

    Picture of bullets for 380 Auto, powder coared with cola can gas checks installed

    Just an idea on how to keep the powder coating from sticking to the foil.
    I didn't read the entire thread but non-stick foil seems to work for me. I just toss them in a bucket of water directly out of the oven, loose the odd one but seems to work for me. YMMV

  9. #2369
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    Quote Originally Posted by 577ken View Post
    I didn't read the entire thread but non-stick foil seems to work for me. I just toss them in a bucket of water directly out of the oven, loose the odd one but seems to work for me. YMMV
    What? You didn't read the previous 119 pages of posts? Lazy...

  10. #2370
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    All previous posts + a 12 pack = all knowledge possiblly ever known by mankind on PC!

    HA....ha!

  11. #2371
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    I have been using HF yellow. It works well, but I am going to check some 380's and 9mm's I have just coated. Want to see if there is any residue or possible leading. However, I have learned a few things about my baking method, on the forum. Thanks to all the info so far. Haven't read everything yet but am in the process. Definitely going to adjust my baking heat and time and shaking time to see what happens.

  12. #2372
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    Quote Originally Posted by tankgunner59 View Post
    I have been using HF yellow. It works well, but I am going to check some 380's and 9mm's I have just coated. Want to see if there is any residue or possible leading. However, I have learned a few things about my baking method, on the forum. Thanks to all the info so far. Haven't read everything yet but am in the process. Definitely going to adjust my baking heat and time and shaking time to see what happens.
    Just got through with a test of using HF yellow with an ES fluid bed design that I'm experimenting with.



    (full resolution)

    Other than accidentally knocking the bullet over and having to grab it with the forceps to turn it back over and messing up a bit on the nose, it seems like it turned out OK. Looks like it might show promise.
    Last edited by NavyVet1959; 11-04-2016 at 10:38 PM.

  13. #2373
    Boolit Buddy
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    I'm still blown away what this single thread spawned! I'm building out a whole shack just for reloading..

  14. #2374
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    OK, learned something new today. Cheap pistol build for BO. Dang gas tube won't let the bolt lock. Bolt has seen >500 PB PCd in the carbine. Gas key is plugged up - well just enough to still work in the carbine but problem for the new pistol build. Cleaned it with a drill and now OK. Gunk is dark crusty stuff with just a few sparkles in it. Bolt wasn't very dirty. Assume junk from the barrel gets compacted in the key/tube. Can't retrieve any boollits so I don't know if base is being cut passing the port.
    Whatever!

  15. #2375
    Moderator Emeritus robertbank's Avatar
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    One thing I have found is you have to have a harder alloy than my WW alloy when I go to 9MM bullets and PC. I size my bullets .357 for the 9MM.

    No leading in 38spl using PC bullets with the same alloy and PC BUT the 9MM guns lead up badly. Like the Hi Tek I want this product to work for me but not at any cost. My main source of lead is WW alloy and foundry alloy is to costly given my distance from the Lower Mainland. I am going to run some "smoke" tests here once I get my Star Lubricator up and running. That will decide which way I go. PC/Hi Tek or stick with regular soft and hard lube. The latter two work. The former not so much with my alloy and smoke, to date, is about the same.

    The bullets do look cool sitting in the chamber of my revolvers though, I have to admit.

    Take Care

    Bob
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  16. #2376
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    try a few bullets pc'ed and sized 358 for your 9MM .. It seems to work well in most 9MM's
    [SIZE=4][B]Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder

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  17. #2377
    Moderator Emeritus robertbank's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke4320 View Post
    try a few bullets pc'ed and sized 358 for your 9MM .. It seems to work well in most 9MM's
    Will will give it a try. Thanks

    Bob
    Its been months since I bought the book, "How to scam people online". It still has not arrived yet!

    "If the human population held hands around the equator, a significant portion of them would drown"

  18. #2378
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Checked the gas key in my ar10 upper today. Plugged the same as BO. Only GCd boolits shot in it so I assume it's the PC & normal powder fouling that builds up, not leading. Doesn't stop the gun from working but sure does change the pressure. Definitely not good for the gas tube either.
    Whatever!

  19. #2379
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    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    Checked the gas key in my ar10 upper today. Plugged the same as BO. Only GCd boolits shot in it so I assume it's the PC & normal powder fouling that builds up, not leading. Doesn't stop the gun from working but sure does change the pressure. Definitely not good for the gas tube either.
    Plenty of guys are shooting pc in AR's, with none of these issues.

  20. #2380
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    I've been shooting PC in ARs for 4-5 yrs now, never NOTICED it till now. Need to check the other BCG that is for jacketed.
    Whatever!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check