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Those look like you used a static gun!
Great... now I'm gonna go all OCD on coating more boolits today. I have yet to achieve perfect, static gun-like results like you have. Close, but not perfect like those. But then again, I'm not standing them up... they're all just piled up in an air fry basket.
Did you use poly pellets on that batch?
"Things sure are a lot more like the way they are now than they used to be." --Yogi Berra
Anytime.
The only real difference between my method and what most guys are doing is the fact that I use Phosphoric acid. IMO, phosphoric acid passivates the brass better, making them more resistant to tarnishing. It also puts a level of shine on them that I was never able to achieve with citric acid.
When you're working up your dose of phosphoric acid, if your brass starts to come out with a pink-ish tinge to it, you need to back off a bit. I use the most I can that doesn't result in pink brass. One thing about that pink tinged brass, though, is that it's so thoroughly passivated, it is much more resistant to tarnishing. But the pink color comes from removing zinc from the outer layer of the brass, and zinc is a good thing in brass... you really don't want to remove too much of it. But even really pink brass isn't damaged, as it's just the very top level of the brass that has had too much zinc removed.
Might want to start out at 1 teaspoon per FART load, then go up by 1 tsp until you get pinkish brass. Back off 1/2 tsp from there, and you should be set. IMO, you shouldn't go by how the brass looks; it'll probably look fantastic with just 1 tsp. You want to use the max amount of acid you can (without getting pink tinge) in order to more thoroughly passivate the brass.
There are some really good articles out there on passivating (making metals more resistant to oxidation) brass. Might want to do a Google search and read up on it if you're interested in producing brass that is resistant to tarnishing.
Last edited by Phlier; 12-29-2019 at 12:39 PM.
"Things sure are a lot more like the way they are now than they used to be." --Yogi Berra
I used reject boolits to do powder testing.
Do small batches/amounts of powder at a time, the more you tumble them the more the PC blends together making a less appealing finish
Last edited by Conditor22; 01-02-2020 at 07:47 PM.
Beautiful boolits!!
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the gold was two coats with the shake method , no bbs
the others was done with lyman tumbler with the small bowl with clear cover , one coat , no bbs
next time I am going to try the gold in the tumbler to see if it will cover in one coat
I like the tumbler method I can see the coverage through the clear cover
they do sell their powders in 8 oz I think they come in a bottle as 1 lb is in a bag,
go to their website and you can see for yourself,
I bought some of the 8 oz empty bottles and they come with screw top lids and 1 lb of powder will fit
Last edited by Conditor22; 01-26-2020 at 02:51 AM.
NRA Life member REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!
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6 more
It's interesting how some colors form "snowflakes" and others actually mix. I like the green- red and green- brown colors. Do you think this stuff would mix with Cardinal Silver as well?
Too many colors, too little time (energy)
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Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!
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1,000 + of each
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |