Anyone on here Put a Floor pan in a truck. can you clue me in on the process?
Thanks,
Sam
Anyone on here Put a Floor pan in a truck. can you clue me in on the process?
Thanks,
Sam
Muddy Creek Sam
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Drive down your favorite country road. Stop at 3-4 road signs and throw them in the back of the truck. Now go home and get out the cutting torch and remove the floor of the truck. Now get some self taping screws and secure the signs to the in side of the cab were your floor used to be. No go get some of that expanding foam and fill in all the seams. Spray some glue to the signs and roll some indoor outdoor carpet on the floor. Done. Good as new!
Farm Truck or Classic ??
And there ya have it, as redneck as it gets! caution: look both ways before removing each stop sign. (you're lookin for smoky) Also: additional caution: remember where the stop signs were you took down, 'cause you might otherwise get in an accident in the several days (or months if really out in the boonies) it takes for the signs to get replaced.
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To do it right, you need to drill out the spot welds & secure a floor. I am having to do a similar deal right now on a 63 Plymouth Savoy. I drilled out over 200 welds on the front clip of a parts car as no one makes the pieces for a 63. Plus ,it was cheaper than repop anyway. I patched a 73 Ford PU with scrap once like was described. It`ll work,but it isn`t Kosher. The question of classic or work truck is a good one. That will determine how nice you want it.
I replaced the rusted spots on my 76 Dodge Warlock, I got replacement floor pans from Auto Body Specialties. You should just cut out the rusted parts then butt weld the new metal in, it only took about 4 hours. You do need a MIG welder.
Clyde
COL USA RET
Or you learn to get good with a stick welder
What kind of truck? Many have replacement floor pans.
I did a VW truck way back when, bought some body steel from the local metal supply house rolled a few stiffing beads in and after cut to fit using cardboard templets, I sealed every place it made contact with using RVT sealant. the pop riveted it in place, Also primed everything before and after.
You say restore or do you mean repair?
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It all depends on how bad yours is, you can get every replacement panel for that pickup.
some replacement panels now are glue on Cab corners and such, and they work good.
The model you have is famous for rusting out the rocker panels beneath the doors.
I hate working with rust, so if I was working on a cab with much rust, I always just got one from west texas or NM and replaced the cab.
If there available buy the replacment floor pan or patch panels for the car/truck you want to replace them in. Take all seats, rugs and generaly flamable items out of harms way. I lay the pan/panel down on the floor (before cutting) and trace out the whole patch panel on original floor making sure it will cover area needing repair. then figure out if you need to cut entire area out or a smaller area (smaller is easier) be careful when cutting original floor! Know whats under it Braces wires GAS LINES etc... Trim the repair panel to fit your hole, cut patch panel a little at a time. This is where your patiants will pay off the closer the repair panel is to the hole you cut in the original floor the easier the welding and fit will be. When the panel is fit tack it in with a mig welder and using a hammer gently make sure it goes where you want it to! Dress out the welds and paint it both sides so it won't start to rust again. This takes a long time and is best done with a few beers and a buddy for consultation!! LOL!!
The above is for a nice restored type of repair if you need to just get something thru an inspection sheet metal, rivits a hammer and some seam sealer or caluk.
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If you want it done correctly, try to buy a replacement floor pan-try an auto body sheet metal supplier or if it's an older truck, look in Hemmings Motor News for replacement panels. Cut out the old panel with a cut off wheel or air chisel with panel cutter. Leave about 1/2 to 3/4 inch lip to lay new panel on. You can temporarily pop rivet new panel in place for trial fit or use cleco fasteners to hold it. Tack weld all around new panel. Use a hammer and dolly to stress relieve each tack weld, and the each bead or the whole thing will buckle. Use a mig welder and weld small areas and then let panel cool down. Weld about 1 inch at a time. Go around the panel making your welds. Example weld right side of panel, left side of panel front then rear. If you have only gas welder (oxy-fuel) that will work too. Don't try a stick welder! Stop signs are usually aluminum and you can't weld that to steel. Do this outdoors and have a fire extinguisher or water hose handy. You can also use an air hose from an air compressor to blow out a small flame. Also remove seat and any flamable items nearby. Or pay a body man to do it if you don't have the equipment. Good luck! Bob
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Why fill the holes?
Use it as an ice fishing shanty.
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Hickory, probably not too much ice fishing in South Carolina, at least not without a lot of alcohol consumption first...Ray
Proud member in the basket of deplorables.
I've got the itch, but don't got the scratch.
Am not a redneck, Katie wants it restored. Guess I need to learn to Mig weld.
Thanks all,
Sam
Muddy Creek Sam
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Look here and see if they have the parts http:www.LMC-TRUCK.com
Frank G.
All parts are going to be off shore parts. So fitting them is going to have to be done. Make sure ALL rust has been removed before welding them in. Mig welding is very easy to do. Just make sure to NOT use the flux core cheapy ones. Get a good one with a shielding gas. The good ones will have a stitch setting to help you weld a panel. It will let you weld about a 1/2" bead then skip a 1/2" You just hold the trigger and keep moving. Miller is a very good brand.
I used to work for DuPont selling paint supplies to body shops. Just make sure to use a self etching primer when you have the panels in place. Not sure what is available now adays as I got out of the paint business back around 98. They were just starting to get into waterborne low VOC paints and primers. They were not very good back then. I am sure they are better now. Just remember. Prep of the metal is everything.
My first post was just a jab. All though I have seen it done that way.
A) Do not get caught stealing road signs.
B) Do not use aluminum (as in many road signs) it will cause more damage if wet because of the dissimilar metal.
It is not hard to put in a new floor pan i have done it on three cars galvanized steel works best cut it oversize and bend it in place pop rivets are good way to secure it in place seal it well also. Something to look at real close make sure your seat mounting bolts are in secure sound metal if not fix it first as a loose seat if very dangerous.
When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.
He said he is restoring it, soooo road signs are out. The stop signs should be safe. lol
Every Road sign I have ever seen was galvanized steel. Thats why the redneck way will outlast the rest of the truck.
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