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Thread: I need a Brain to Pick? Auto Restoration

  1. #21
    Boolit Master in Heavens Range

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom-ADC View Post
    Sam what is it?
    Tom,

    It is a 67 Chevy c-10 Short bed Step Side 327 with a TH400 and Overdrive.

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  2. #22
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    Sam try classic industries order the catalog, floor pans can be had under $30 depending on how much you need.
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  3. #23
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    Why did you go a 400 instead of a 700 trany?

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomme boy View Post
    Why did you go a 400 instead of a 700 trany?
    tommy,

    Truck came with the 400 and overdrive installed

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  5. #25
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    I used marine grade plywood , 1/2 inch thick to replace the floors in a VW beetle...they were still in there when I sold the cars years later.

    gary

  6. #26
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    OK. I myself do not like the 400. Too high of first gear. But they are very strong. Does the add on overdrive run off of the trany fluid from the trany or is it self contained? I think Chrysler did a add on to their trany's at first. They had a very high failure rate. Something like 72% within 90K miles. It was the overdrive unit that took out the trany.

  7. #27
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    The Overdrive is an add on unit.

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  8. #28
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    Those parts are fairly cheap (shipping will cost you though)............there are plenty of videos on the net that show how to replace the floor pans. If you don't have the time a body shop probably wouldn't charge you too much to do just the floor plans.

    http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/catalog...+pan&x=55&y=14

  9. #29
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    Found out today the Overdrive unit is a Hone, anyone know anything about these?

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  10. #30
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    The Hone should be in a museum.

    Get your complete floorpan here http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/t.aspx?Page=24 and either cut out the patch panels you need or dissect the cab and replace the whole thing. If you don't have a MiG and .023" wire, learn how to gas weld. Either way, a good set of body hammers and dollies, leather sandbag, Sawzall, spot-weld drill, and angle grinder will be your friend.

    Gear

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Gliden07's Avatar
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    Sell the 400 and put a 700R4 in. 400 is real strong but its heavier and uses more power than a 350 or 700R4 and the R4 has overdrive built in. Check out the link below for some more information on the R4.

    http://www.smokemup.com/tech/700r4.php
    45 ACP because shooting more than once is just silly!!

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  12. #32
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    I don't know anything about restoring/repairing old trucks but I do know what happens when you take road signs. I serve on our county commission and missing signs are a major expense. If you are going this route, go to a neighboring county. That way you aren't contributing to increased taxes in your home county. I hope you don't live in the next county to me.

    If we had it to do over, all roads would have very common names. None that appealed to teenagers.
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  13. #33
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    Re: I need a Brain to Pick? Auto Restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by tomme boy View Post
    Why did you go a 400 instead of a 700 trany?
    A 400 can't be destroyed is why.....grin

    Art
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  14. #34
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    Oh yes they can. Try a 592ci tall deck Chevy with 11.25-1 pistons with 700hp of nitros. 350horse plate on the throttle and 350 hp fogger set to come on 2.5 sec into run. Trans break with 5500rpm stall lauched 6000rpm when the stall would flash that high. Motor alone was 750hp then add the nitros and the trans break. I went threw on avg 2 tranys every year. This was on a mud bog race truck.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    The Hone should be in a museum.

    Get your complete floorpan here http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/t.aspx?Page=24 and either cut out the patch panels you need or dissect the cab and replace the whole thing. If you don't have a MiG and .023" wire, learn how to gas weld. Either way, a good set of body hammers and dollies, leather sandbag, Sawzall, spot-weld drill, and angle grinder will be your friend.

    Gear
    Gear,

    What is a spot weld drill?

    Sam
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  16. #36
    Boolit Master Gliden07's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muddy Creek Sam View Post
    Gear,

    What is a spot weld drill?

    Sam
    They look like tiny hole saws! Check out the link below.

    http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=pd_sl_55...ot+weld+cutter

    The best way I've found to use them is to scuff the surface so you can see the spot welds, center punch the spotwelds put the spotweld cutter in a drill and have fun!! The cutter will drill a hole larger than the spotweld (about 1/4") it will drill thru the first sheet of metal and seperate the sheets. After drilling all the welds out you'll be able to seperate the panels. Most of the time the panels will still be fused some how use a chisel or better yet an air chisel and some well placed wacks to finish.
    45 ACP because shooting more than once is just silly!!

    Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muddy Creek Sam View Post
    Anyone on here Put a Floor pan in a truck. can you clue me in on the process?

    Thanks,
    Sam
    I used to do auto body work and when I got tired of that went to work selling after market body parts. Look up LMC Trucks on line or see if you have a Keystone Automotive near by. Buying a premade floor pan is SO MUCH easier than hacking beatin&welding up one on your own.
    Best to weld it in or use metal adhesive (if you can get past the rust) either way make sure you have tight metal to metal contact and LOOK UNDERNETH!! The last thing you want is to cut or weld a gas or brake line! Don't laugh seen it happen! I've seen doors screwed shut before!
    It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years (Abe Lincoln)

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  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    The Hone should be in a museum.

    Get your complete floorpan here http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/t.aspx?Page=24 and either cut out the patch panels you need or dissect the cab and replace the whole thing. If you don't have a MiG and .023" wire, learn how to gas weld. Either way, a good set of body hammers and dollies, leather sandbag, Sawzall, spot-weld drill, and angle grinder will be your friend.

    Gear
    Ya beat me to it Gear.
    If Sam's only going to do his floor he can get by with almost any hammer and a chunk of steel (lead will do if ya can find some) a drill w/1/8" bits some screws (to hold the panel while welding) a saw or cut-off wheel on a grinder.

    LMC will have the pan and floor braces. DO NOT remove the floor and rocker panel at the same time!! Thats very importent! Not sure if your going to do the rocker or not, but if you do and you remove the rocker and floor the cab will flex and the door opening will SPREAD! don't ask how I know I just do , lets leave it at that!
    It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years (Abe Lincoln)

    "A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.” George Washington

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check