Win94AE; Remove lever from link?

[G. Blessing]

G'day Gents.

Quick question; how do I get the lever and link from my 94AE apart?

I can get them both out of the gun, no problem. Can probably do it blindfolded at this point... These things are soooo easy to field strip/take apart. Especially after you've done it 10 times to clear trapped rounds, and study a malfunction.

It looks like they are held together by a pin that has had the end peened and machined smooth again... Or is it simply pressed in tightly in the link? No screw head, so its highly doubtful its threaded in.

I'd like to have some idea, before I go at removing it, and risk damaging the finger lever(since it looks like a new lever averages about $100!!)

Explanation;
while cycling the action, loaded of course, it will sometimes(randomly, but getting more frequent) let the next round from the mag tube into the receiver before fully closing; before the carrier has dropped. Thus trapping that round under the carrier and above the link, jamming the action.

I need a new link.
The little nub at the front of it that stops the cartridges from leaving the mag tube has had its tip broken off. No idea how, but it has... (no, not worn off, this is rough grainy metal, a break, not shiny smooth wear).

That tip being broke off means that it clears the butt of the cartridge before it should, before the bolt is far enough forward to drop the carrier.... Thus letting the round in under the carrier.

I saw the broken tip the last time I had the gun apart for another problem(loose ejector pin, loading gate, and cartridge guide rail from excessively Hot loads), but upon re-assembly it cycled fine, and I've shot the gun since with no issues... So I figured it still had enough metal on it to do its job. Apparently Not.


I'm going to take it out, and weld on that nub, to build it up again, re-grind it to match the profile of the one in my 30-30, and see how it works. Nothing to loose, since its already a broken/malfunctioning part.

But I'd like to have it off of the lever to make working on it easier. And, otherwise, I'd need to have it apart to replace it anyway.

G.

[fecmech]

I've had mine out in the past it's just a serrated pin. Treat it like a dovetail, out, go left to right.

[pietro]

Remove the large-headed lever pin stop screw from the upper left receiver wall, and partially open the lever to align the pin attaching the lever to the bolt with the hole.
Tap the lever/bolt pin out through the tiny hole in the RH receiver wall.

Drive out the lower link's forward pivot screw & remove link with lever from receiver.

Either work on the link like that, or drive out the pin holding the lever to the link - YMMV.

.

[G. Blessing]

Remove the large-headed lever pin stop screw from the upper left receiver wall, and partially open the lever to align the pin attaching the lever to the bolt with the hole.
Tap the lever/bolt pin out through the tiny hole in the RH receiver wall.

Drive out the lower link's forward pivot screw & remove link with lever from receiver.

Either work on the link like that, or drive out the pin holding the lever to the link - YMMV.

.

yes, I have the link and lever out of the gun allready, but the lever flopping around on the link will be a pain for working on it.

I've had mine out in the past it's just a serrated pin. Treat it like a dovetail, out, go left to right.

So, it just presses out... Sweet!

Thank you Gentlemen!

And, I did some digging, apparently this is a common problem...
http://www.levergunscommunity.com/vi...15c4fa41b35786

Same info here, but with the pics publicly available;
http://shootingwithhobie.blogspot.co...rrier-jam.html

G.

[fecmech]

And, I did some digging, apparently this is a common problem...
http://www.levergunscommunity.com/vi...15c4fa41b35786

Yes, especially with the .357 cartridge. The action was designed around the 30-30 with it's big cartridge head and the .44 mag and .45 colt seem to work ok. The .357 I think is just too small as far as the cartridge head dia. BTW the pics in that link are my 94AE .357.

[Bullet Caster]

And good luck welding pot metal. I had the same problem with my Win 94AE in .45LC. The part would not take a weld due to being pot metal. So I had to order a new part from Winchester. BC

[pietro]

And good luck welding pot metal. I had the same problem with my Win 94AE in .45LC. The part would not take a weld due to being pot metal. So I had to order a new part from Winchester. BC

It's not made of "pot metal".

It's made from a process termed "sintering", aka: "sintered steel" - IDK why welding didn't work (but peening/swadging the stop finger a bit longer does).


.

[Bullet Caster]

Okay. You told me twice now that the part is NOT pot metal (from another thread). I just wonder why it wouldn't take a weld. Knowing that it can be repaired makes me want to shoot it more. I love that little Winchester with its 16" bbl. I think my wife wants to shoot it now. If'n it breaks I'll probably send you the part and see if you can weld it and swage it a little longer. Thanks. BC

[pietro]

Sorry - I didn't mean to be redundant, but I did it knowing some folks don't seem to ever return (or at least reply) to threads.

BTW - peening only works for a stop finger that's slightly worn - the ones broken off need weld build-up or link replacement.

The trouble is, I've replaced a broken link with a new one, only to have the same problem with the new link - it seems the new link's tolerances were on the wrong (shy) end of the scale.


.

[fecmech]

The trouble is, I've replaced a broken link with a new one, only to have the same problem with the new link - it seems the new link's tolerances were on the wrong (shy) end of the scale.

That was what happened exactly with my 94AE .357. The new link lasted about 100 rds and then started passing shells. At that point I took it to my welder friend and he welded it up and then I ground it to fit. In the picture I posted previously the "new" link is on the left, you can see the imprint of the shell casings in the mag tube after only about 100 rds. Whatever sintered metal Winchester used it was very soft!