Mihec 10mm - 200gr WFN / .40s&w - 180gr HP, 4-cavity, Brass

[Oreo]

I sure wish I was active on this forum when this was still open. I would be all over it if I could still get one.

Any chance there's another one around? Probably a long shot.

You should PM mihec and ask. I don't think its a long shot at all. As far as I know everyone who has asked has received (shipping delays aside.)

Like I said, steady new interest.

[b2948kevin]

Ok, done. Thanks for running this, Oreo.

[chrisw]

There might be. But with the number of guys still waiting to receive their molds if I was miha I would not sell anymore till the guys that have already paid receive theirs. Just to be safe.

yup! That's what I'm hoping- PMed earlier this week, hopefully he's waiting til everyone gets them!

[Aaron]

I haven't seen mine or my 22 mold yet I just pm remember I just pm'd Miha

Aaron

[yondering]

Mine showed up yesterday.

The mold is beautiful, excellent machine work, and a great design too. Definitely a heavy one though, with a lot of mass to heat up! If there were a re-run of this one, I'd choose aluminum instead of brass.

I'm having a little trouble with base fillout though, even with plenty of tin in the mix. All of the details in the cavities fill out nicely, but one or more of the bases end up rounded on almost every cast. Never had this trouble on any other mold, including 3 other Mihec molds. Anybody else having this problem?

[ctious]

Mine showed up yesterday.

The mold is beautiful, excellent machine work, and a great design too. Definitely a heavy one though, with a lot of mass to heat up! If there were a re-run of this one, I'd choose aluminum instead of brass.

I'm having a little trouble with base fillout though, even with plenty of tin in the mix. All of the details in the cavities fill out nicely, but one or more of the bases end up rounded on almost every cast. Never had this trouble on any other mold, including 3 other Mihec molds. Anybody else having this problem?

The spruce hot enough? I know if the spruce cools too much base fill out can round.

[Oreo]

The only issue I was having was that the end of the sprue plate opposite the pivot screw wasn't being held tight to the mold. The gap was only a few thousandths but it was affecting the quality of the edges of the boolit bases in those cavities. It turned out that sizing the boolits ironed it out pretty good. It may just be that the sprue plate screw was too tight. I dunno.

[RED333]

I'm having a little trouble with base fillout though, even with plenty of tin in the mix. All of the details in the cavities fill out nicely, but one or more of the bases end up rounded on almost every cast. Never had this trouble on any other mold, including 3 other Mihec molds. Anybody else having this problem?

Yep, lead and plate to cool, turned up the heat on the lead, do not know what temp,
but it got better after that.

[RED333]

The only issue I was having was that the end of the sprue plate opposite the pivot screw wasn't being held tight to the mold. The gap was only a few thousandths but it was affecting the quality of the edges of the boolit bases in those cavities. It turned out that sizing the boolits ironed it out pretty good. It may just be that the sprue plate screw was too tight. I dunno.

I had that after a long run today, found a bit of lead stuck to the top of the mold, scraped it off and all was good after that.

[ctious]

I am jealous of all u guys casting. Mine is at the post office. Will pick it up today and cast tonight. I am excited.

[ctious]

Well I cast for the past 2 hours. I am beat. Lol. Took me my first pot of lead to figure out the temp. Needs to be hot. Almost frosted. But they look great. I water dropped some and air cooled others. I must have got some lube in the hole closest to the screw. The first half of the night that hole wrinkele. Casts good now though. I did have a little trouble with the flat nose dropping. Seemed to always stick. The deep hp dropped evertime the second I popped the mold. The shallow were 50/50. It's my first brass mold. I love it.

[Oreo]

Ctious, was there any flash on the noses from the seam around the hp pin? On mine it wasn't enough to see but could be felt with the thumb. That might contribute to the release issues. I mostly blamed any release problems I had on me being clumsy handling these molds with the fancy hp pins for the first time. Most of the boolits fell without assistance.

[ctious]

Ctious, was there any flash on the noses from the seam around the hp pin? On mine it wasn't enough to see but could be felt with the thumb. That might contribute to the release issues. I mostly blamed any release problems I had on me being clumsy handling these molds with the fancy hp pins for the first time. Most of the boolits fell without assistance.

I went back and cast for another 2 hours. Lol. Yes there was flash on the ones that were sticking. I figured that out in my second casting session. I now have about 1000 boolits total of all 3 kinds sized and lubed. My hands are wore out. LOL.

Flats weight 204.8 lubed.

Shallow 199.8 Lubed.

Deep 194.4 lubed.

Dropped at .403

Now to get some loaded tomorrow and maybe test shoot some wed. Need to get some wet news paper together. Not sure if I will have time to do that much though. There are more deer to kill. Lol.

[Oreo]

Ctious, if you don't mind, pick a boolit without the nose flash and measure the length. See how that compares to the blueprint. I'm curious.

[ctious]

Ctious, if you don't mind, pick a boolit without the nose flash and measure the length. See how that compares to the blueprint. I'm curious.

.6385. What was the print length? Just looked. Yeah they are running a lil long. Yours long too?

[Oreo]

Mine might have been a little but I did measure one that was dead-on, so I was just curious if the flash was interfering on the others.

[ctious]

Guess that little but could also have a lot to do with plate fit.

[ctious]

Measured a bunch of them. Range from .6335 to .6385.

Loaded up 150 rounds. 50 of each over 8.3 longshot. Should be good stout loads but not nukes. Hoping to get out and shoot them tomorrow. I hope. Now to find some media to shoot to test.

[NHGrumpyGramps]

I measured some of mine and they run right at .635, there is a little flash at the nose where it meets the pin, but does not look noticable. I was finally able to load up a few rounds and try them out this weekend. I'm loading 10mm for use in a S&W 610 revolver and found that I could not get any to chamber at 1.250 OAL. I kept pushing it down until I reached 1.230 and it would chamber, but I had to push some a little somethimes to get the cylinder to close. I went down to 1.225 and was getting good reliable chambering using moon clips so that is what I went with. Revolver doesn't have any chambering force like a semi-auto so the OAL must be set so cartridges just drop in. I loaded some up with Blue dot with reduced starting loads due to the decreased powder space and worked up to my normal load of 8.7 gr. All worked fine at the range and at 8.7 I was not seeing any pressure signs so this should be good to go. I was able to keept all my shots within minute of bowling pin using my pin shilouette target. It will proably be spring before I get to try them out on real pins, but I can spend the winter making more boolits and loading.

[Oreo]

I'm confused GrumpyGramps. How can a revolver cut for 10mm at SAAMI OAL (I'm assuming) require a shorter OAL? Are the cylinder holes tapered or? I just don't see how that's possible.