Last edited by hylander; 11-10-2012 at 01:12 AM.
If I encounter a barrel with lead in it the easiest way I have found to clean it out is to first wet the bore with a good solvent. Seems best if it has amonia like Sweets or Barns CR-10 but shooters choice or something like it will work as well or even Kroil.
Give the solvent time to soak but heed the instructions of the maker.
Then fire a few low pressure rounds with boolits that are .001 to .002" over groove diameter.
If the barrel is real bad it might take a couple tries.
This generally gets the lead out and then normal cleaning will have the barrel shiney.
Well after trying evrything and really getting the bore light in there, I beleive it is not lead build up but I must have used some combination of chemicals and etched the bore some how
My fault totally I think
I just got overzealous I guess.
Today I fired 12 more rounds, accuracy was not good.
Then cleaned and fired 15 rounds of Jacketed rounds, accuracy also was not the best but much better than the cast.
Got home cleaned and cleaned and cleaned, talk about copper fouling
After cleaning I hand lapped the barrel but it is still rough.
I will give it one more try at the range and if it still is not good I am going to rebarrel this Mauser to 30-06 with a quality barrel and call it a day.
If it makes you feel any better, I'd still bet you didn't etch or damage the surface of the bore. I think it may be more like I posted on my previous post about "something else".
I've seen bores that were pretty good looking (and shooting) until all the corrosion, lead, copper, carbon mixture was cleaned off. Then the reveal! Under that extremely hard mixture, many times, are areas of lost bore surface steel- in other words pitting. Likely been there for years. I think if you had hooked up one of the electrical cleaning systems you would have discovered the same thing in one overnight session. Good luck on the re-barrel.
Trust but verify the honeyguide
what best removes lead in my barrels is Xelene or Xelene/toluene, 75/25. wet the bore well, wait a couple of min. then start pushing the lead out. it will come out in strings. the stuff goes right threw any pore and wets the barrel itself so, the lead gives up it's grip.
frank
Xelene is benzene spiked with methyl radicals, making benzene dramatically more mobile. Will go through your skin without even trying. Treat with utmost respect. Prolly the best wax killer in existence. Just about every Xelene form is a king of the known creepy-crawlers. ... felix
felix
Yep; looks to be pitting, the frosting type the MOsins seem to always have.
The good: after lapping I get no leading to speek of.
The Bad: Accuracy is not good and it Copper fouls very easy.
The Cure: I'm rebarreling to .308 or 30-06, I couldn't make up my mind yet so I ordered both barrels
Should have both by next weekend. The .308 barrel is a NOS Nowegian and the 06 is a Wilson, both are Military contour.
Use this stuff only outdoors, away from any flame source, and ideally use nitrile gloves and an organic vapor cartridge filter mask -- xylene and toluene are fairly toxic (brain, kidney, and liver damage, as I recall) and both are either known or suspected carcinogens.
Not saying don't use 'em -- everything will kill you (ever seen the MSDS for water?) -- just take reasonable precautions. Personally, I'd rather die of a massive stroke than from cancer...
Yeah, octane will be raised. So will the Irish of your motor oil. ... felix
felix
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |