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Thread: Tighten up barrel bands?

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Tighten up barrel bands?

    Hey guys. The front barrel band on my Mossberg 464 is loose, even with the screw tightened all the way. It is properly located with the notches for the screw in the middle. Is there an easy way to tighten it up? I was thinking a little Teflon tape between the band and the barrel and mag tube might work. Any ideas out there?
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  2. #2
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    You are in a Catch-22. Tighten it up and get in wet conditions, whatever you put in will indent the wood, and be looser yet when things dry out again. A very slight and judicious bending would be the solution, most likely.
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  3. #3
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    A SMALL bead of clear silicone inside the band and let it get slightly rubbery to almost cured before installing it.
    It wont damage anything, easily removed if need be, and it wont indent the wood , but will act as a cushion tightener, and if done right , completely invisible.

    Rich
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  4. #4
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    Get a tube of black room temp vulcanizing sealer. Use a small amount of that under the band, snug it down, let it cure for a day. It will keep it in place and also help dampen vibrations.

    McPherson shows the use of that stuffin many other places in his book on Accurizing rifles.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Are you talking the very front band by the front sight? If so this needs to be loose in order to shoot its best.
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Wolfer beat me to the answer. It needs to be loose or the barrel will be inhibited as it vibrates with the shot. Loose is good. Tight will hurt accuracy.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Yes, it is the front band by the sight. The mag tube can be moved around by hand. Is this normal? None of my Marlins or the Winchester 94 I used to have are like that and they are quite accurate.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Pull the tube and band off the barrel. A very small bad of the black room temp vulcanizing silicone right under the front band but between barrel and band will help keep things from moving so much. It will also help cut down on vibration. Place a small bit under band on top of barrel to snug that up too while still keeping vibration down.

    That stuff does wonders for killing vibration.

    Get a copy of McPhersons book "Accurizing the Factory Rifle". You will be amazed at all the places he uses it, and it works!

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Will do. I found the barrel band has a fine crack in it, also the mag tube cap screw does not keep the mag tube from wobbling even when tightened down all the way. I called Mossberg. The guy agreed to send me the three parts although he said they normally require the rifle to be sent back. Hopefully that will solve the problem!
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check