Custom Round Ball Molds - Heavy Metal Molds

[JTknives]

I will offer both styles of sprue plates. But it's just my nature to over Complicate somthing. About boolits sticking at the sprue. If you look under the sprue you will see a milled reses between the holes in the plate. When slid back the recessed area is above the sprue. But I will have both styles or maybe just the standard style. Won't know how this design works till I cut one.

[JTknives]

What would people think of just a standard sprue plate that has a cam lever on the block. That way you just cam the handle to cut the mold. I have noticed that when my molds are up to temp I can cut the sprue with a gloved hand.

[longbow]

Cam levers are great. I have two like that now and want more!

[451whitworth]

.675", .680", & .710" are the sizes i would be interested in. any idea on price yet?

[longbow]

Hmmm 451whitworth gave me an idea too ~ what about multiple cavity sizes in one mould? Say maybe a four cavity with two at 0.678" and two at 0.730"?

[Woodtroll]

I would definitely be interested in a multiple-cavity .460" if the price is right!

[JTknives]

Looks like I'm going to offer the standard sprue plate style with an option for a built in cam lever to cut the sprues

[JTknives]

I have just about solved the pivot system on the standard "normal" sprue plate design. As it seams that's the kind if sprue plate you want I needed to see how I could improve the pivot system. Well I have, and I think you guys will like it. To sum it up there is a .25 reamed hole in the sprue plate in the area where the pivot screw normaly goes. On the side of the sprue plate adjacent to the reamed hole is a 6-32 threaded hole. The mold block has a .25 reamed hole through it as we'll as a bronze .25 bushing pressed into the top of the block. There is a hardened steel .25 dowel that on its end has groove and snap ring installed. The way this works is like so. A spring is slipped over the dowel pin and bottoms out on the snap ring. This pin now slips up the .25 hole in the block from the bottom. The pin is pushed up intel it sticks into the reamed hole in the sprue plate. You set the sprue plate tension by how far you stick the pin out the top of the mold. Once you have the tension you want you lock the set screw on the side of the mold down which presses onto the steel dowle pin. This will now alow for an adjustable non slipping and strong pivot system. There are some details of the spring mold interaction I did not go into detail about. but just to ease your mind the spring is not riding or sliding on any part of the aluminum block.

[Mooseman]

JT,
Just be aware that springs will start losing tension with heat around 300 to 400 degrees.

Rich

[JTknives]

JT,
Just be aware that springs will start losing tension with heat around 300 to 400 degrees.

Rich

Yes I thought of that. But I also know that when I spring temper something here at the shop I temper it at 600-900 deg. 400 deg is usually the temp I start to see any drop in RC when tempering high carbon steel and that temp still produces a hardness of around 58-62RC depending on carbon content. It's the same thing as a wave washer. It's basically a spring that's not split into a coil. Most springs you can file, that means thy are in the 50RC+ range. Take blue spring steel, it's tempered at 600-700 deg and its a very strong spring steel.

[Bullet Caster]

I think I'd like a 4 cavity multi--2 @ .451 and 2 @ .490. That way I'd be able to make RB's for my .50 flinter and make RB's for my cap 'n' ball 1860 Army at the same time. Wow. What a concept. Of course I'd need to know the price up front. BC

[Mooseman]

Yes I thought of that. But I also know that when I spring temper something here at the shop I temper it at 600-900 deg. 400 deg is usually the temp I start to see any drop in RC when tempering high carbon steel and that temp still produces a hardness of around 58-62RC depending on carbon content. It's the same thing as a wave washer. It's basically a spring that's not split into a coil. Most springs you can file, that means thy are in the 50RC+ range. Take blue spring steel, it's tempered at 600-700 deg and its a very strong spring steel.

JT,
How long will the spring last if repeatedly heated between 400 and 600 degrees , which a mold can reach temperature wise ? Also will it be affected when I pre-heat my molds over a propane stove burner ?

Rich

[JTknives]

JT,
How long will the spring last if repeatedly heated between 400 and 600 degrees , which a mold can reach temperature wise ? Also will it be affected when I pre-heat my molds over a propane stove burner ?

Rich

It will last as long as a wave washer would.

[Splatter]

I have just about solved the pivot system on the standard "normal" sprue plate design. ...

I still like the first design.
But I can see where a 'standard' sprue-plate design would be less complicated in the long run.
The spring would make it self adjusting for temp-expansion, whereas I can see the first design being a bit more trixy on that front.

[BLACK3]

How about a 56 cal bal. I understand its a .550 diam. But not sure.

[JTknives]

We are getting really close guys, the mill is getting picked up this morning in Canada. As long as everything goes ok at the border we will be home free.

[DukeInFlorida]

JT, just my dos centavos worth:

Make your sprue plate cutters like the ones that Mihec makes for his brass molds. Simple, easy to make, and works great with no issues.
I have a MIhec custom round ball mold, and it came out great.

[rollmyown]

Any clues as to postage cost for 1 or 2 molds to Australia?

[DukeInFlorida]

International MEDIUM Flat Rate is limited to 7 US pounds, and costs $10.15 US

[rollmyown]

Is JTknives in the US?
If so that's a blessing. Postage is a killer from Canada