My mold blocks are designed so that I can tune each block for the ball size. By making the mold taller I can cut up to 1.125" multi cav mold. There is no need to have a 2" tall 50 cal mold so block size will be chosen by factoring in ball size and number of cavs. I should have some solidworks drawings uploaded tonight.
It's not the size of your brass that matters, It's how you tumble it.
I would be interested in 50 cal and 45 cal molds. Also a .550 mold for my 56 smooth bore.
Garbear
Last edited by garbear; 12-14-2012 at 02:41 PM.
Garbear
I'd be very interested in .490 and .530 moulds.
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Don't forget .426Originally Posted by Dean D.
It's not the size of your brass that matters, It's how you tumble it.
I would be very happy to buy a four-cavity brass RB mold for my .62 caliber Fusil. Like a .585".
Interested in at least 2 in .315/6 and .454.
Brass is my flavour
The mold design is just about done. I hope to have it finished today. The mill will be here in a week or two.
It's not the size of your brass that matters, It's how you tumble it.
Iron mold. I may be up for one or more. Pricing is of interest to me for the time being. We'll see.
I'm down for. .550 or so RB
maybe a few thou smaller
ok i updated the first post with concept drawings
It's not the size of your brass that matters, It's how you tumble it.
How does that sprue plate work?
.738 4 cavity.
Yessir, that would be sweeter than suger coated honey.
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
The sprue plate just slides. You fill the mold with the sprue plate slid forward. Then when cool you push the plate back twords the handle and the sprues are cut. Open the mold and drop balls. Then close mold and slide the sprue forward.
It's not the size of your brass that matters, It's how you tumble it.
Why so complicated a sprue plate?
how would this affect the price, compared to a standard swinging sprue plate.
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Yes, why so complicated. I think fitting will be an issue with that design (my opinion). Since it can't be snugged to the blocks the fit will have to be very precise. Also, unless I am missing something, it will remain in place over one side of the block which means any sprue nubs may hang up, though RB's do tend to leave moulds easily.
A standard swinging sprue plate works just fine, is easier to make and allows snugging or loosing to one's preference.
Like I said, just my opinion.
I am still interested in something around 0.675" or so at least two cavity and four would be nice.
Longbow
I agree about the sprue plate. As shown in the drawing, I see nothing but problems.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
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Yep, that sprue plate is asking for problems. First, will it move enough to give the sprue enough "kick" to launch off? Also, and the biggest issue, is the potential of molten lead to get into the slots jamming up the plate. Go with a triditional plate IMO.
I might be interested in a ball that could be loaded into a 12 shell - though I don't know that size that is.
Would like one for my 50 cal.would be nice to have one for 12,20ga.sized for inside the wad type loading.The way I get lead on my cramer mould's push pins, I too worry about spilling on the sprue plate.How do you plan on moving sprue plate? Multi cavities could require quite a bit of force to operate.
Will be anticipating the reveal of your finale product.
I love the sprue plate design, sure, if you flood the top in molten lead it'll gum up temporarily. And if you dump molten lead into your glove, it'll also make the process slow down.
Just try not to do either.
And I'd be in for a mould for 12ga balls. Still have to slug that bore and figure out what shotcup I'll use.
I too see a sprue plate problem and possible stuck boolits in the mold under it with that design. I prefer My Plates to swing out of the way, especially for clearing lead off a hot mold that gets smeared sometimes on the surface when Hot metal expands and contracts. Just My 2 cents. If overflow fills those oblong pin guide holes , How would you clear them ?
Last edited by Mooseman; 11-02-2012 at 01:47 AM.
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