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Thread: tin can shot maker?

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    North end of the Keweenaw, Michigan
    Posts
    240
    the shot dropper I made for my lee ''drip o matic'' was made out of a 1.5'' black iron cap with a 1/4-28 hole angled 45 degrees off the bottom corner with a.023 mig welder tip inserted into the hole

    had to heat the unit with a propane torch to keep the tip flowing and ressivore hot
    got the best results aiming the torch directly at the end of the tip and letting the shot
    roll threw the fire down a welder soap stone into glycoll coolant[100%]
    lotsa shot in a short order of time

    Doc.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Bluffton , SC (formerly L.I.)
    Posts
    118
    Ovendoctor - Could you post some pics of your setup?

  3. #23
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    349
    This is the first I've heard about a tin can shot maker, but, man it does intriguing. You've got my attention...

  4. #24
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    37
    I plan on welding a couple bolts to the bottom of an old pot the bots will hold on a salvaged burner from an old electric stove, the thermostat will also be salvaged and mounted in a lectronic project box.
    I'm still in the design phase............

  5. #25
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    3
    With a tin can shot maker you need to very careful as the soldered bottom of the can can & will give way with little or no notice do not ask how I know but I can jump farther than the lead splattered.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master

    mtgrs737's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Kansas land of OZ
    Posts
    1,940
    When making drip shot the problem is that you need to keep an eye on several things at once. Temperture of the lead, height of the molten lead in the vessel which is pressure at the drippers, & coolant temperture and viscosity. The abiltiy of the coolant to absorb the heat of the cooling lead pellet at a rate that is not too fast or it will explode like popcorn is also important and that is why water doesn't work too well unless it is heated. I have tried many coolants and have found that for me liquid Sun laundry soap from the Dollar General stores works the best for me and it washes off much easier than any oil type of coolant. Your lead needs to be about 550 degrees and constant in temp. The lead level at the drippers needs to be consistant or you will get more variation in pellet size.

    How shot dripping works is that the hole is so tiny that the lead comes out at a slow rate and the drip builds in size until it is too heavy to hang on, so it falls off and rolls down a short ramp and into the coolant. The temp of the lead, size of the hole, and pressure of the lead at the dripper determines the size of the pellet. You need the coolant as close to the bottom of the ramp as you can get it without touching the ramp or it will cool the ramp off and the lead will deform when you want it to dance on the ramp without cooling off like a drop of water in a hot skillet. When you get it just right, you will have good shot, if the drop to the shot if too long will allow the shot to flatten when it hits the coolant, so keep it short. The depth of the coolant tank is also important if you want shot that is hard enough to stand up to the weight of the shot falling on top of it and not deform. To date I have made shot that is within .002" of being round but my normal run of shot averages .004" out of round which is hard to tell with the naked eye. Minding the temps and pressure is key to making decent shot. It is a trial and error learning experiance but if I can do it, you can do it, Good luck!
    Mtgrs737
    Still Learning!

    NRA Life Member
    Life long OZ resident

    Personality type: Compulsive/Excessive - I don't know what that means, all I know is, if I like something, I want a lot of it!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check