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Thread: simple lube.

  1. #61
    Boolit Master
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    Made a batch earlier this evening. I substituted 1 oz of beeswax with 1oz of micro-wax other than that I followed your recipe to the letter. It is soft, pliable and quite tacky. I've got the pan with boolits cooling as we speak and will hopefully have some loaded to shoot Thursday. I won't be pushing the velocity envelope with this, just testing against a known accurate load that I've tried 2 other home made lubes on in my 300 blk bolt gun that runs around 1850 FPS.

    Last edited by Jailer; 12-04-2012 at 10:38 PM. Reason: add pic

  2. #62
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    With POE and beeswax, never judge the consistency right away, it takes a day or so after being blended to decide how it's going to be.

    By the way, your lube equipment and work area is way too clean, you must be new at this.

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  3. #63
    Boolit Master
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    That part that the pan is sitting on is a pull out writing surface. It's on that because there's no room to set it on my desk.

  4. #64
    Boolit Master
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    it will firm up a little over night with the origional recipe but remains pliable and tacky.
    i have a batch just sitting in the garage that's been there for about a month now.
    in temps from 85 to about 50 [i keep it somewhat heated and sometimes have a fire in the wood stove]
    it is just lube sitting there,no oil lost and it's still pliable and slightly tacky.
    if i want to put some in the lube sizer i just squeeze some into the approximate shape and shove it in.
    it wipes right off my hands.

    that's the same color i get too.
    looking forward to some more range reports.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  5. #65
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    I made some today. Mine came out purple due to the blue two stroke oil. I bought a small crock pot from a thrift store, dumped in the ingredients and let it cook for a half hour or so till everything was melted and mixed. I stuffed my lubrisizor and will use it tomorrow.

  6. #66
    Boolit Master
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    OK, range report time. Real pleased with the performance of the lube. Shot as good as anything I've tried yet and was much easier to make than some others. I loaded up the 300 blk and just for kicks I loaded 5 rounds of 308 for the RGS. The boolit used was the Lee 312-155-2R cast from ACWW with just a touch of tin added and sized to .310. For the 300 blk I loaded a known accurate load of 15.3gr of H110 loaded to a COAL of 2.055. This load runs about 1850 FPS. For the 308 it was 19gr of 2400. First time trying this load so it was an unknown going in. Both guns have had several hundred rounds of jacketed and cast through them since the last time they were cleaned. All shots were fired at 100 yards.

    Fist was the 300 blk. Not sure what was going on with the fist shot. First shot was way off from the rest of the group with the remaining 4 showing a typical group for this load. I fired off 5 jacketed rounds just prior to this since I wanted to see how it would group fired from a warm barrel so maybe that had something to do with it. Velocity was a little lower than normal at around 1800 FPS.



    Next up was 16gr H110. This load is where things just start to fall apart with this load. It stayed true to form. Only 4 shots on target because I accidentally bumped the trigger sending one round into the berm. Velocity was right around 1900 FPS, typical for this load.



    Now the 308 was the big shocker. This was the most accurate shooting I've seen from this rifle of ANY load. My only problem was I made the mistake of not removing the sling before I shot this group and I ended up with some horizontal spread as a result. Still, this load and lube shows great promise in this gun and I'll be loading more very soon. Velocity was right around 1730 to 1750 for all 5 shots. All in all it was a good day at the range.


  7. #67
    Boolit Master
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    if i go to 19 grs of 2400 in my 308 i have to back the primer down to a large pistol.
    normally i will do much better with 17-18 grs and a large rifle primer [it works the same in my 0-6 too [shrug] just does]
    positioning the powder a lil bit would have probably fixed those horizontal flyers.

    have you tried aa-1680 in the 300?
    just curious, i'm wanting to build a 10 twist one and push for about 19-1950 fps with either 1680 or 2230.

    it looks like the modified lube is pulling some powder fouling.[indicating a wet condition to the muzzle]
    how do the bbl's look?
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  8. #68
    Boolit Master
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    The horizontal fliers were absolutely due to me not being able to keep a steady hold on the target. I should have stopped and removed the sling, but they were the last shots I fired and I was getting cold and hungry so I was hurrying.

    I never even bothered to look at the muzzle. Both guns have flash hiders so I doubt I'd see anything anyway.

    What did strike me as a bit funny is the lack of a cold bore flier with the 308. The shots that are outside the group are #2 and #3, left and right respectively. 1, 4 and 5 are the nice little 3 shot group. This is the first 5 shots that had been through that gun in over 8 months.

    I have tried 1680 in the 300 but so far haven't had any luck at all with it. I seem to be in the minority on this too for some reason. Ligun has shown some promise but needs more testing to be conclusive. I still want to try some RE7, 2400 and AA9 yet. This 300 blk has monopolized all my casting and reloading time for a while now and looks to do the same for a while longer.

    I had a couple of other test rounds that caused some leading today so I cleaned the gun tonight (300 blk) and ran a patch with ATF on it through the bore as you and gear suggested to get it ready for it's next round of testing. The weather here has taken a turn for the worse for the next several days but I hope to get back out to the range soon for some more testing.

    ETA: Describe "wet condition to the muzzle". Not sure exactly what that means. Pretend your talking to someone show doesn't have a clue what they are doing.
    Last edited by Jailer; 12-07-2012 at 08:18 PM.

  9. #69
    Boolit Master
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    Not sure if I messed up or not. Mixed up a batch of simple green today and tried to follow the recipe to the letter. I had two types of 2-stroke oil. semi-synthetic and full synthetic. After about three seconds of self debate, I decided on the semi. From what 5r5 has advised, I know that I'll have to let the final product sit over night to get a real feel for the vicosity. As of right now, the lube seems plenty soft and tacky, but the glide is not there. Smearing it between thumb and forefinger, the lube has a tendency to break up.

    Hence my question. Do I need more vaseline or did I use the wrong type of 2-stroke oil?

    What do ya'll think.
    Thanks a bunch. especially to R5R for sharing this recipe with the forum.
    Kirk
    Last edited by Kirk Miller; 12-09-2012 at 08:26 PM.

  10. #70
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    Kirk, getting the POE oils to "jive" with waxes can be a challenge. I don't know what sort of oils were in the semi-synthetic you used, but if the mix doesn't have the "glide" (I call it "smearability, where you can easily smear a blob down into just a faintly waxy film between your fingers), then there might be a compatibility issue with the two-stroke oil. Some oils plasticize the wax, some dissolve the bonds between the wax molecules making it different degrees of brittle and/or crumbly.

    Ester oils, like Redline or the stuff Eutectic uses (Orange is all I can remember, help my rememberer somebody!) have the unique quality of being able to blend with just about any petroleum, synthetic, or wax without separating or getting crumbly. The Amsoil two-cycle lubes (which are PAO oils, not POEs, but have additives to help them blend with other stuff) will blend well with beeswax.

    One thing I've found is that, over a few weeks time, some crumbly lubes tend to get "unitized" again. Might try remelting it for about ten-fifteen minutes and letting it sit a couple days, it might just be the solvent in the two-stroke oil (most are 25% aliphatic mineral spirits by volume) making it crumbly.

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  11. #71
    Boolit Master
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    Gear, thanks for the help. That is all good information that I WILL use.
    Kirk

  12. #72
    Boolit Master
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    So if one was to mix up a batch and accidentally use power steering fluid instead of ATF what would the result be?

    Not that I did that or anything.........

  13. #73
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    Common power steering fluid (GM type) is polyglycol-based, similar to the stuff used in some hydraulic fluids, DOT 3 brake fluid, and antifreeze. Other than tending to absorb moisture, and possibly being hostile to cartridge brass or gun steel in the long haul, I don't know, never tried it in lube.

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  14. #74
    Boolit Master
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    I was racking my brain trying to think of what the outcome would be, but you are right about the hygroscopic affect of brake fluid. I hadn't even thought about that. Looks like I'll throw this batch out.

    I was mixing a new batch up today and following the original formula posted by RfR. I grabbed the wrong bottle (they looked identical) and didn't realize my mistake until I was putting things away.

  15. #75
    Boolit Master
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    kirk if after overnight it's still a bit on the parrafinic feeling side add some more vaseline.
    that will give it a more cohesive/feathering feeling.
    this lube is on the verge,it's fairly high friction.
    adding more atf will up the "glide" but vaseline is the true b-wax modifier.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  16. #76
    Boolit Bub
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    Fair warning for a newb question...

    I'm in the prep stages for casting. I've got some range scrap I've turned into ingots. The folks got me a casting pot for Christmas, but I'm waiting until then to bust it out and use it. I should also be scoring a couple of molds for the holidays. In the meantime I'm poking around here and other places learning what I can before I actually start casting. So here is my newb question: is there any reason this lube wouldn't do well for pistols? I'm going to be casting and loading for my Makarov and my 9mm. I ask because I'm new and fairly ignorant, and it looks like everyone who has posted has used this with their rifles. Any thoughts or experience with lower velocity pistol rounds?

    Thanks for any responses and for all the great info I've gotten so far from just poking around the forum.

  17. #77
    Boolit Master

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    Should work just fine.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  18. #78
    Boolit Master
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    i used some in my 9m last week.
    i have issues with carnuba red under 40-f and was getting some leading with some test loads i was working with using it.
    the simple lube cleaned everything up,and i was able to take the load up another 0.10 gr which brought the boolit holes in the paper up in line with my sights.
    i'm still tweaking this lube a little here and there. [next addition xlox]
    going the opposite direction from b.a.c. to make the lube a little more temp friendly and flexable.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  19. #79
    Boolit Master brstevns's Avatar
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    Were do you guys get your lanolin? and what kind?

  20. #80
    Boolit Master

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    I just bought some from Randyrat. Heck of a guy.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check