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Thread: simple lube.

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
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    I'm going to give it a try--BUT if I get turned out onto the street I'm heading for Idaho with fire in my eye.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
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    you'll be fine.
    take i-15 north to hwy 30 east, you can't miss town.
    most everybody knows how to get to my house.
    i should be able to loan the couch or find a cot.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  3. #43
    Anti-Socialist Texan


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    Quote Originally Posted by goodsteel View Post
    Dang. I was hoping for a bright zombie green.
    Oh well. I'm going to whip some of this stuff up anyway and see how it does.
    I hold the patent on Zombie lube, in fact that was what I actually named a series of PAG lubes I was working on a while back due to the UV tracer dies in the oil:





    Gear

    PS Tim, you might recognize that little HB PP boolit poking out of the tray in the background....
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  4. #44
    Boolit Master


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  5. #45
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    r5r, Inserted chunks of "Simple Lube" in my LAM II the other day atop the Felix Lube already there and melted them with a heat gun (low temp.) once inside. It will take awhile before it works through the sizing dies. No problems to speak of.

    As an aside, although the LAM II is sturdier than the Lyman #450, the latter is much easier to adjust and use. OTOH, the former has a solid bottom so it can't leak and coarse threads on the die retaining nut so it can't be easily misthreaded or stripped.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master
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    excellent.
    nothing out of the ordinary so far.
    i haven't seen any oil bleed out sitting in the window or any hardening of the original lube.
    there may be a swap for the lanolin coming up which would extend the cold side of the effective temp zone.
    [something felix,gear and i discussed] and hopefully [should] be an ingredient you can get at your local auto parts store or wal mart.
    stay tuned.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  7. #47
    Boolit Master
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    R5R
    In your experience does the lube perform the same in temps from mid 20s to mid 80s. That is the temperature ranges we normally get here in Arkansas during hunting season. (sometimes on the same day ) It really would be nice to know where that first shot was headed, no matter the temp.
    Milkman

  8. #48
    Boolit Master

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    That is sure enough Arkansas hunting. I am hoping to experiment with this lube myself. In fact I ordered the BW from Randy two days ago.
    Milkman just asked the $24,000 question.
    Tim Malcolm
    MBT custom rifles & gunsmithing
    www.goodsteelforum.com

    "He who is enslaved by the compass has freedom of the seas"

  9. #49
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    excellent.
    nothing out of the ordinary so far.
    i haven't seen any oil bleed out sitting in the window or any hardening of the original lube.
    there may be a swap for the lanolin coming up which would extend the cold side of the effective temp zone.
    [something felix,gear and i discussed] and hopefully [should] be an ingredient you can get at your local auto parts store or wal mart.
    stay tuned.
    This post is relevant to my interest. A lube that works well in the heat and at cold temps is what I need. Something that works well down into the 30's would work, I don't spend a whole lot of time outside when it gets much colder than that.

  10. #50
    Anti-Socialist Texan


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    There's a 1200-something post sticky going on addressing this very thing, it ain't as simple as it looks.

    Gear
    You can't fix Stupid, but you can occasionally head it off before it hurts something. --Stephen Adams

    To universalize one's experience and state it as the norm is always thin ice on which to stand.--CharGar

    Being able to separate the wheat from the chaff has always been a valuable skill in all of life's activities. --Bwana


  11. #51
    Boolit Master S&W-629's Avatar
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    can some one tell my why you have to use BW and not the other wax from candles?

  12. #52
    Boolit Master

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    The short, less than 40K words explanation , is that BW, is majic bee throw-up, that cures cancer, diaper rash, and leading.

    Candles are generally paraffin, which is mostly useless in boolit lube.
    More "This is what happened when I,,,,," and less "What would happen if I,,,,"

    "Control the things you can control, maggot. Let everything else take a flying (leap) at you, and if you must go down, go down with your guns blazing."- The Dark Tower, Steven King


  13. #53
    Boolit Master
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    Gear,
    I was aware of the sticky, but kinda like my kids used to do, I thought I would keep asking different people till I got the answer that I wanted. I really do appreciate all the time, energy and money that people here on this forum have invested in the lube question. Most of the discussions are way over my head and I am glad that some of you have the education and intelligence to understand what is going on.
    Milkman

  14. #54
    Boolit Master
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    first the parrafin question.
    it can be used to make a lube with,but the big issue is consistency, you can buy consistent parrafinic waxes but they usually cost more than b-wax. [they do come in some desirable viscosities though]
    beeswax is a little different from batch to batch but is easily manipulated for softness with an oil or a modifier like vaseline or lanolin. [and with small amounts]

    the 20/30-f area should be no problem for this lube, that's part of why the dexron ATF was added as a main ingredient.
    it IS my cold weather lube modification for other lubes.
    it also allows you to push a patch wetted with atf through the bbl for cleaning,and for a more consistent cold bbl first shot.

    like i pointed out earlier each batch of b-wax is a little different, a little more of one ingredient or another won't make a big difference to how the lube works, but keeping a pretty consistent viscosity and smear from one batch to the next will keep things more consistent in the bbl.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  15. #55
    Boolit Man
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    Back in the 1980's,I mixed my first batch of "Pine Tree Green". That was 1 lb. of beeswax,13 oz jar of petroleum jelly,and 2.5 oz of Amsoil 100:1,2 cycle lube. The color came from the 2 cycle oil.
    It still works great and I have approched 2200 fps in a Contender"Super 14".
    Lately,I have cut the PJ back to 10 oz and it still works,the next batch will be 8 oz.
    I loves to spearament.

  16. #56
    I'm A Honcho! warf73's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S&W-629 View Post
    can some one tell my why you have to use BW and not the other wax from candles?
    I currently do use candle wax, its a mix of soy wax candles (mostly) and some paraffin wax candles. I melted it all together (my wife started saving me wax puddles from her smell pretty maker) and dip lubed some 480 Ruger boolits.
    They dipped well and shot well with no leading and left a pretty smell after being fired. I noticed a few weeks later that the extra boolits I dipped and sized the lube was flaking out of the lube grooves.
    The problem was posted here and the result was add vaseline and maybe some ATF. Well I did add 1 small jar of vaseline and 1 oz ATF and now the lube doesn't flake out of the lube grooves.
    Still no leading, shoots the same and smells pretty when shoot.
    So in part you can use candles just make sure you know what the make up of the candles are.



    Note: Some people are allergic to paraffin burning, soy candles and other natural ingredients candles are out there.
    "Life isn't like a box of chocolates...It's more like
    a jar of jalapenos. What you do today, might burn
    your *** tomorrow."

  17. #57
    Boolit Master
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    scented candles do smell nice when fired if you get the right ones.
    i remember making a say wax lube with a scented candle mix the wife dubbed it butt-crack lube, not the exact word she used but it did smell like that.
    vanilla,coffee [some],and angle food cake are nice smelling though.
    soy wax will also feather out nicely [parrafin won't unless plasticized] but neither have the pore size [lube carrying capacity] that b-wax has.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

  18. #58
    Boolit Master
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    runfiverun, what do you think of substituting an once of beezwax with an ounce of microcrystalline wax? The micro wax I have is softer and a bit tackier than beeswax and gulf wax. I was thinking of something just a touch softer for the colder weather. Would that work or would you just add more Vaseline?

    Have you had a chance to test the velocity limit of this lube yet?

  19. #59
    Boolit Master tbierley's Avatar
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    I make all my lubes the black powder lube is simple 4oz by weight of unbleached beeswax and 2oz Neatsfoot oil by volume and 2oz Murphy oil soap by volume and a cayon color of your liking. And my smokless lube is the same but I add 4ozs paraffin was by weight.

  20. #60
    Boolit Master
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    i haven't pushed the lube past about 2300 fps yet.
    the micro wax i haven't tried, give it a shot.
    i have added soy wax and micro-wax to b-wax before and generally like to keep them below @ 25%.
    a softer wax like you mention won't change the lube too much,i'd cut the vaseline back by a tsp though untill you see how the final product comes out.
    it's all an educated guess,,,, till the trigger is pulled.

    this opinion brought to you by mister low-tech solution..

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check