simple lube.

[runfiverun]

taco:
it's an ongoing sticky on top of this section.
the SL series of lubes starts on about page 95 or so.
it would take about 48 hours to read the whole thing and 48 more to explore the links.
the beta version is:
4oz b-wax
4oz dr tranee assemblee goo
one bar [3.1 or whatever size] of ivory soap.
I add a tbs of mineral oil to mine at the start.
but you have to watch it and make it in a very umm ventilated area.
and make sure you get the heat up over 450-f.

[fecmech]

Here is the link to intructions see post #1735
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...e-Quest/page87


I used this recipe and left out the mineral and castor oil. Just soap,goo, and bwax.

One, 4.5 ounce bar (big bar) of sliced Ivory soap (it comes in big bars and small bars, pay attention when buying). I weighed it and it was 4.2 ounces out of the wrapper.
4 ounces tranny gel
2 tablespoons heavy mineral oil
2 teaspoons castor oil
4 ounces beeswax.

[taco650]

So is the beta version more heat tolerant than your simple lube? I live in GA and summers are hot and sticky enough. Regular candles can soften and become misshapen if stored improperly in the summer heat. I want an easy lube to make (only a few, easily obtained ingredients) that will hold up to the weather down here and still perform well.

[runfiverun]

that is the SL-61.0 version in the box.
the beta is without the oils.
there is a 61.1 with reduced oils
and a 62.0 with lowered mineral oil and no castor oil [the one I favor right now]
there is also a 'plastic version' of all parrafinics and synth 2 stroke called K-2
and I have one with micro-wax and atf
I think brad has done a 50-50 version [61.5 or something] too.
we are still working the final formula.
we are working on a partial blue version too that will be very similar to the BETA.
the biggest problem is we have to shoot these things as we go along and observe them.

[runfiverun]

the beta will handle the heat.
GEAR lives in texas and the beta is too new to know for sure but it's melt point is over 150-f by a long shot.
we are balancing hot/cold with the lube not just going straight to the hot side.

the simple lube has a pretty high melt point also about 130-f if you need it to work in extremely high heat add some carnuba wax [3%] should be enough.

[btroj]

I plan to test the paraffin/K2 "Flubber" version for heat by plainf it in the over on 200 for a few hours. Sitting it on a paper towel will let me see if it bleeds any oils.

The 50/50 beeswax version has more stickiness than the paraffin only but I haven't tested them to see f that is good, bad, or indifferent.

I am certain that this stuff will handle heat like nothing else.

[35 shooter]

r5r your lube works. this is my first post on any subject but i've been lurking for 6 months. big thanks to everyone here as i've garnered more information on these forums than i could have in a lifetime on my own. anyway i'm late replying on this thread but here goes. made the lube and let it set only one day. lubed and sized some 200 grain gc 35 cal. rcbs boolits for my whelen and shot them the next day. first was 8 rounds of 26 grains sr4759 estimated 1800fps. no leading and a.957" and 1.1" 3 shot groups after fouling shot @ 100 yards. next was 33 grains 4759 @estimated 2200 fps and .657" @ 100. then 50 grains of h4895 @ estimated 2500fps .987" group @ 100 yards. no leading at all no wash in the bbl dry patch ran threw with a slick easy feel and bbl was shiny. all this on the same day same conditions and about 90* temp. thanks for making it easy.

[waksupi]

Yep, keep an eye on Uncle R5R, you won't very often go wrong.

[runfiverun]

don't thank me.
other members asked for something simple and easy to make with easily available ingredients that was adjustable for a broad range of application methods.
thank them.

[303Guy]

I haven't read the whole thread so here's a question that may already have been answered; blue 2-stroke oil contains ammonia - is that a good thing for brass and bores?

[tonyjones]

I would not leave ammonia in a barrel, especially 416R stainless steel. I use some ammonia based solvents but only leave them in 416R barrels 20 minutes or so before thoroughly removing them.

Tony

[35 shooter]

I haven't read the whole thread so here's question that may already have been answered; blue 2-stroke oil contains ammonia - is that a good thing for brass and bores?

303 i sure don't know what's in there but i would think with all the heat and pressure inside that bbl it all went down range when i shot it. ha ha. seriously tho i can tell you the fired brass looks great days later. the velocity i posted for the loads was estimated but i've seen them chronoed by others on various posts before so they're in the neighborhood. i will let you know if the bbl falls off tho. so far easy clean up great accurracy and best of all no more pesky purge shots so far. bear with me guys , i'm pretty computer illiterate, don't know how to do the smiley faces and all. thanks again to EVERYONE i've been learning from. that means you too 303.

[runfiverun]

blue is just a color for a few of the 2-stroke oils, green is what they normally are.
if you smell ammonia in an oil or engine additive I definitely would not use it for anything, in fact I would return it to the store where I bought it

[303Guy]

Turquoise is probably a better description. Outboard two-stroke oil has ammonia in it (it smells of ammonia) and in my parts it is also used for land two-strokes. It's what keeps the engines so clean and corrosion free - the oil that is. OK, so I won't use those for boolit lube.

[Idaho Mule]

I have been using this lube since Feb. of this year. Loading for a lot of things, ranging from low velocity (750-800 fps) 32-20 and 38 loads to mid velocity 45 colt, 41 mag, 357 mag (900-1100 fps). also up to my rifle loads in 357 mag, 356 win, 303 brit from 1600 -2000 fps. It is serving me very well. I like it because it truly is "Simple Lube". So far no problems whatsoever. I get a nice lube star from everything, barrels show so little leading (none at all in handguns) that it is not worth mentioning. I mix up a batch and just pour it into my Lyman 4500 when needed and go on. Thanks guys for all the research, experience and knowledge. JW

[Lead Fred]

I like natural ingredients.

.

1 lb bee's wax
1lb lard
8oz cornola oil

Dont get no more natural or simple than that.
Ive ran this up to 1750fps in several rifles, with nay the least bit of lead fouling.

This is my holy black lube, for modern powder I ditch the corn oil, and replace with a bottle of STP

[geargnasher]

I'm trying to figure out how this thread has only a three star rating.

Gear

[taco650]

I'm trying to figure out how this thread has only a three star rating.

Gear

10-4 should be about 20 stars.

[35 shooter]

I was wondering about that myself. For sure it's a 5 star lube and he named it perfectly... simple lube....
Simple to make and simple to tweak it. Also one of the few lubes that you can make inside the house that won't cause a divorce.

My experience with it was one shot at the range to foul the bbl then go to group. The fouling shot was ALWAYS
close enough for hunting. I think a little tweaking on it and the fouling shot will go away.

For sure one sizer at my house will have Ben's Red and the other loaded with Simple Lube.

[geargnasher]

Well, we got it up to four stars now guys, keep it up! I agree, for 95% of the shooting most people do, it's great, and a wonderful "base" for experimentation if one fancies such. Just like Felix lube, every ingredient is there for a reason, not just because it "sounded good".

Gear