RepackboxWidenersADvertise hereRotoMetals2
Titan ReloadingLee PrecisionInline Fabrication

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 41 to 45 of 45

Thread: Kinetic bullet puller O-ring size?

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    South Western NC
    Posts
    1,982
    I've been happily using standard shell holders in my puller for about 40 years. I've read the horror stories of a detonation while using common shell holders in a hammer puller. Can't say it's impossible but I don't see how it could be possibly be true as it has been described (or any other way) because the primer seating punch and its sleeve has to fully enter the largish center hole in a shell holder and that priming hole is big enough that I see no way any part of a properly seated primer can physically contact a shell holder during pulling.

    I don't think a cartridge loosely held inside a hammer puller could/would detonate anyway. Yes, IF ignited, the powder would immediately burn enough to push the bullet out but that should immediately release the case pressure to near zero and the remaining powder would continue to "slowly" burn away, not explode. Meaning, IF it happened at all, it would be a fire hazard for a few seconds but not blow anyone's hands or head off!

    Do as you wish, we're all responsible for our own work. I'm not going to stop pulling bullets with standard shell holders until I see believable evidence that a round has actually done what I've read so far; there has to be a lot left out of the stories (and disaster photos) I've seen.


    >> It helps a LOT if we seat jacketed bullets just a few thou deeper before pulling. That will break the chemically bonded metal adherence between the bullet and case neck.
    Last edited by 1hole; 01-06-2020 at 03:42 PM.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,147
    Quote Originally Posted by kootne View Post
    ...I managed to figure out that holding a chunk of 2x4 in one hand and the bullet puller in the other hand and smacking the 2 together (doubling the impact velocity) I had much better luck...I whack it on the end grain.
    Unfortunately, I'm just the kind of guy who'd whack his hand rather than the 2x4. I've had one surgery there already, don't think I want another. The physics sound right, but I'll leave this technique to those with better coordination.

    I do find it helps to have the kinetic puller hit so the cartridge is at right angles to the striking surface (I use an upended 4x4 post cut to just below waist height), and that there's good wrist action in the swing to increase acceleration.

    And, yes, I've broken two kinetic pullers. One was the shaft, a sudden failure, and the other a crack in the head that didn't fail after more occasional use over several months.

    The collets on my pullers are all rounded and snug up against inside edge of the hole in the threaded cap. No one has had problems with the flat part of the shell holder against the cap?

  3. #43
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    3,947
    Glad someone resurrected this old thread. Very informative.

    I have a really old model and it uses a round springy thingy to hold the collets together. If is an abomination to use. Spring is constantly falling off. I wound up buying a collet puller for doing .308's. It works well if pulling a lot of jacketed bullets but the inertia puller is handy for a couple of cartridges...it cannot do cast pistol bullets.

    Even the O-ring sounds like an improvement but the shell holder idea is one I must try. I am with 1hole on not being able to figure out how a shell holder can set off the primer but my shop is 70 yards away in the cold and I will look at it latter.
    Don Verna

    NRA Endowment Member

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,147
    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    ...the inertia puller is handy for a couple of cartridges...it cannot do cast pistol bullets...
    I don't recall using a inertial puller on loaded cast bullets, but I have used it on coated (HiTek). Compared to jacketed, it does seem to take a bit more effort or the more precise technique, as I tried to describe previously. Maybe the extra diameter (.002" in my case) increases the interference fit? Maybe more than jacketed, but not as much as traditionally lubed cast?

  5. #45
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    3,947
    Kev

    Poor grammar on my part. I meant to say the collet puller will not work on cast. I use the inertia "whack a mole" hammer on cast loads.
    Don Verna

    NRA Endowment Member

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check