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Thread: Kinetic bullet puller O-ring size?

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
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    Feb 2007
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    South Western NC
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    2,066
    I've been happily using standard shell holders in my puller for about 40 years. I've read the horror stories of a detonation while using common shell holders in a hammer puller. Can't say it's impossible but I don't see how it could be possibly be true as it has been described (or any other way) because the primer seating punch and its sleeve has to fully enter the largish center hole in a shell holder and that priming hole is big enough that I see no way any part of a properly seated primer can physically contact a shell holder during pulling.

    I don't think a cartridge loosely held inside a hammer puller could/would detonate anyway. Yes, IF ignited, the powder would immediately burn enough to push the bullet out but that should immediately release the case pressure to near zero and the remaining powder would continue to "slowly" burn away, not explode. Meaning, IF it happened at all, it would be a fire hazard for a few seconds but not blow anyone's hands or head off!

    Do as you wish, we're all responsible for our own work. I'm not going to stop pulling bullets with standard shell holders until I see believable evidence that a round has actually done what I've read so far; there has to be a lot left out of the stories (and disaster photos) I've seen.


    >> It helps a LOT if we seat jacketed bullets just a few thou deeper before pulling. That will break the chemically bonded metal adherence between the bullet and case neck.
    Last edited by 1hole; 01-06-2020 at 03:42 PM.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
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    Sep 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by kootne View Post
    ...I managed to figure out that holding a chunk of 2x4 in one hand and the bullet puller in the other hand and smacking the 2 together (doubling the impact velocity) I had much better luck...I whack it on the end grain.
    Unfortunately, I'm just the kind of guy who'd whack his hand rather than the 2x4. I've had one surgery there already, don't think I want another. The physics sound right, but I'll leave this technique to those with better coordination.

    I do find it helps to have the kinetic puller hit so the cartridge is at right angles to the striking surface (I use an upended 4x4 post cut to just below waist height), and that there's good wrist action in the swing to increase acceleration.

    And, yes, I've broken two kinetic pullers. One was the shaft, a sudden failure, and the other a crack in the head that didn't fail after more occasional use over several months.

    The collets on my pullers are all rounded and snug up against inside edge of the hole in the threaded cap. No one has had problems with the flat part of the shell holder against the cap?

  3. #43
    Boolit Master


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    Oct 2009
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    Northern Michigan
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    Glad someone resurrected this old thread. Very informative.

    I have a really old model and it uses a round springy thingy to hold the collets together. If is an abomination to use. Spring is constantly falling off. I wound up buying a collet puller for doing .308's. It works well if pulling a lot of jacketed bullets but the inertia puller is handy for a couple of cartridges...it cannot do cast pistol bullets.

    Even the O-ring sounds like an improvement but the shell holder idea is one I must try. I am with 1hole on not being able to figure out how a shell holder can set off the primer but my shop is 70 yards away in the cold and I will look at it latter.
    Don Verna

    NRA Endowment Member

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    ...the inertia puller is handy for a couple of cartridges...it cannot do cast pistol bullets...
    I don't recall using a inertial puller on loaded cast bullets, but I have used it on coated (HiTek). Compared to jacketed, it does seem to take a bit more effort or the more precise technique, as I tried to describe previously. Maybe the extra diameter (.002" in my case) increases the interference fit? Maybe more than jacketed, but not as much as traditionally lubed cast?

  5. #45
    Boolit Master


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    Kev

    Poor grammar on my part. I meant to say the collet puller will not work on cast. I use the inertia "whack a mole" hammer on cast loads.
    Don Verna

    NRA Endowment Member

  6. #46
    Boolit Master trixter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Where E. Pine crosses I-5
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    835
    Going back to the original post, I emailed RCBS about my broken 'O' ring on the medium size collet, and bless their hearts they sent me 3 new ones free of charge. Thank you RCBS, your customer service is great.

  7. #47
    Boolit Buddy
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    Jan 2020
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    Minne-Snow-Ta!
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    I tried the shell holder idea too but it damaged the brass and even pulled the rim off .223 cases. I'll stay with the aluminum rings, thank you.

  8. #48
    Boolit Master
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    Feb 2008
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    Eureka MT
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    I learned the shell holder trick here several years ago. Been using it since.

  9. #49
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    South Jersey
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    5,426
    Kinetic puller: Put a muffin tin of lead on the work bench (or hit on a concrete floor) - strike the puller straight down - when bullet falls (leave 2 or 3 bullets in the bottom of the puller), UN -tighten the collar tad, lightly strike the puller on an angle. Case heads will be exposed to remove with fingers
    Regards
    John

  10. #50
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Boise, Caliho formerly Idaho
    Posts
    143
    I never liked smacking my kinetic bullet puller on the garage floor. And so a couple of decades ago I made up a striking block from a piece of 4x4, put a scrap garage 'D' lifter handle (saves the hand), to hold the block while hitting it with the kinetic on the end of the block. Over time it now has a 'bowl' shaped indentation on both ends. If pulling a 'stubborn' bullet I can hold it on the concrete floor and not worry about damaging the kinetic puller. I've worn out several collets but the puller is still doing ok. Smacking the kinetic on the end grain keeps the block from becoming kindling!
    West of Beaver Dick's Ferry.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check