HighWall forend support

[supe47]

I received a phone call from C Sharps the other day informing me my HighWall I ordered was in the assembly process and would be ready perhaps early next week. I'm thrilled. Just a wee bit over 60 days from order. The rifle I ordered is in 45-70 and has a 30" #1 heavy barrel. I'm used to shooting rifles with free floating barrels and this style of rifle, with forend grip attached to the barrel, is new to me. My question is this. Where in the world do I support the forend when shooting off the bench? I've talked to a couple of shooters at the range who shoot this style rifle and opinions vary. Most say to support on the barrel and find the sweet spot where barrel harmonics are best. I suppose this will be a trial and error thing but a starting point would be nice. Max range for now will be 300 yds. Will I see that much difference between front support on the forend grip and front support on the barrel itself? I realize this is a pretty vague question but I don't want to start shooting this rifle the wrong way and ruining the accuracy ability of this fine piece of metal and wood. Supporting on the barrel goes against all that I have learned, so far. To quote Vinney Barbarino," I am so confused".
Supe

[montana_charlie]

When you get your rifle, do this ...

Dismount any tang sights or sling swivels ... anything that can wiggle or shake.
Hold the rifle by the receiver with the muzzle hanging down.
Use a plastic mallet, a wooden sprue knocker, or even your knuckle if you don't bruise easy.

Tap on the top of the (hanging) barrel about four inches in front of the forend.
Move up and down the barrel, tapping lightly while you listen to (and feel in your hand) the amount of barrel vibration.

It will sound like 'tung' 'tung' 'tung' until you find the null spot in the barrel harmonics.
Then it will change from 'tung' tung' to 'thup' 'thup'.

That is the sweet spot. Place that part of the barrel on the benchrest or cross stix.

Changing loads will not make it move as it is a fundamental characteristic of that piece of steel.

The spot will probably be just forward of center between the receiver and the muzzle ... if the barrel is tapered. If it has no taper, it will be very close to the middle.

CM

[MikeS]

Charlie: Thanks! I just got my rolling block rifle, and I was wondering if that method would work, if I would really be able to feel the difference, and WOW, even I could feel the lack of vibration! I have a barrel that is half octogon, and the forearm is the entire length of the octagon portion, but when I started tapping (I didn't have a mallet handy, so I used my all plastic bullet puller) and sure enough, right about the middle of the round section it stopped vibrating! I went up and down the barrel a couple more times to confirm, and sure enough, each time when I got to that one spot it stopped vibrating!

[drcook]

Put a piece of tape around that spot so you remember where it is. All my rifles have that ugly piece of tape around the barrel.

[supe47]

Montana Charlie: Makes sense. When my rifle arrives that'll be the first thing I do........after I wipe the drool off. Many Thanks, Supe.

[Ramar]

I do the same as MC, and record that spot in inches from the barrel. I then confirm that point using the baby powder on an unsupported barrel. A search here will better explain the powder method.

Ramar