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Thread: Rem 510 TargetMaster

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Rem 510 TargetMaster

    I swear I had posted this question last week, but can't find it now.
    Must be another bout of "oldtimers" kicking in..

    Anyway, I picked up a nice Remington 510 TargetMaster single shot 22 at a recent gun show that looks like it had been oiled and put up in a closet as it was covered with a oily dusty layer of crud.

    I decided to clean it up and see how good I could make it look. Everything went ok until I tried to remove the bolt. Now how complicated can a single shot 22 rifle be? For the life of me, I cannot get the bolt out.

    Please enlighten me with your knowledge. Maybe I can't see the forest for the tree.
    Shoot Safe,
    Mike

    Retired Telephone Man
    NRA Endowment Member
    Marion Road Gun Club
    ( www.marionroad.com )

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    Push the safety forward then extract the bolt.
    If you ever want to get rid of that rifle let me know.
    Last edited by Hickory; 10-04-2012 at 05:29 PM.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    My youngest son inherited a 510 rem a few years ago. Nice ol gun!

    Think if you pull the trigger back,the bolt will slide right out. Think the trigger sear is a part time bolt stop!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by mainiac View Post
    My youngest son inherited a 510 rem a few years ago. Nice ol gun!

    Think if you pull the trigger back,the bolt will slide right out. Think the trigger sear is a part time bolt stop!
    I was thinking that the 510 was like my 541-s, where the safety is pushed forward for the bolt to come out.
    I guess I'm mistaken again.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    Correct...

    Quote Originally Posted by Hickory View Post
    I was thinking that the 510 was like my 541-s, where the safety is pushed forward for the bolt to come out.
    I guess I'm mistaken again.

    You are correct. The safety has to be pushed forward after pulling the bolt back.
    Shoot Safe,
    Mike

    Retired Telephone Man
    NRA Endowment Member
    Marion Road Gun Club
    ( www.marionroad.com )

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Clark's Avatar
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    My brother, shown, got a Rem 510 for $7 ~ 40 years ago.

    I helped restore it.

    Since then I have bought a number of Rem 510, 511, and 512 rifles.

    I do not follow the guidelines for Weaver mounts, I use the same mount front and rear, a #43 and keep them both on the receiver.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Removing the bolt from a Rem 510 takes some manipulation of the safety and the trigger. Just remember that every time you pull the bolt back it automatically puts the rifle "on safe", so you have to push the safety forward again. -Ed

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    those are great little rifles, that safety takes some getting used to. i regret it, but i sold mine two years ago. it was a good shooter.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy pcmacd's Avatar
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    I've a 510. Belonged to my beloved neighbor who passed a few years ago.

    It almost looks brand new on the outside, but the bore needs all manner of work.

    I can't get the bolt out. Safety forward, safety back, pull trigger. Nothing. Nada. Nichts. Zilch.

    It won't even dry fire!

    What the What?

    Help!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcmacd View Post
    I've a 510. Belonged to my beloved neighbor who passed a few years ago.

    It almost looks brand new on the outside, but the bore needs all manner of work.

    I can't get the bolt out. Safety forward, safety back, pull trigger. Nothing. Nada. Nichts. Zilch.

    It won't even dry fire!

    What the What?

    Help!
    There is a rib, if you can call it that, on the bottom of the Remington 500 series bolts that is easily broken if roughly handled and can jamb the bolt so it no longer works. I suspect that is what happened to your rifle. My older son, who I swear could break an iron ball with his bare hands when he was a kid, managed to break his rifle. IIRC I had to completely disassemble the rifle to get the bolt out. I couldn't find another bolt body so I eventually TIG welded the rib back to the bolt and was able to clean it up and make it work. I wouldn't want to do that job again.

    I can only hope my diagnosis is wrong. Good luck.
    BIG OR SMALL I LIKE THEM ALL, 577 TO 22 HORNET.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy pcmacd's Avatar
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    Got it.

    Took off the stock.

    With flashlight determined that, indeed, forward is "safety off" and put it there.

    Wiggled and jiggled trigger with muzzle down. Out it came.

    Disassembled bolt and it was clean as a whistle inside to the point that there was little use for a soak in Ed's Red. And oiled? Surprise!

    Now for the bore.... ugh.
    Last edited by pcmacd; 03-10-2020 at 08:28 PM.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Some of those old "set back in the closet years ago"guns needt to have metal removed fome the stock and judicious application of brake cleaner applied.
    OR
    other good solvent.

    Oil gets a bit stiff after many many years.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy pcmacd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TCLouis View Post
    Some of those old "set back in the closet years ago"guns needt to have metal removed fome the stock and judicious application of brake cleaner applied.
    OR
    other good solvent.

    Oil gets a bit stiff after many many years.
    Mine was manufactured 1946, when the original/only owner was 18 years of age.

    It is in astounding condition - 98% (maybe more, modern firearm), only problem is a couple of spots of truly ugly carbon fouling in bore, which is otherwise as new. I don't want to put the bolt back in until I get the bore clean.

    Carb-Out, here we are.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check