The use of .308 brass VS .358 Win Brass ?

[358 Win]

In loading for my .358 Winchesters for 32 years, I can't begin to tell you how many rounds went
down range using reformed brass. I like to use .243 or 7mm-08 brass because they come out closer to 2.015" than does .308 brass. No problem what so ever using cases a little shorter than
the trim to length. The deer killed to date did not know they were killed with reformed brass!
358 Win

[35Whelen]

I have bought the .358 brass from Hornady. It is pricey stuff up here in Canada at almost a $1 a piece. I made a contact with a sniper training officer in one of our Police forces here ( I used to be a member, now retired ) he sold me enough once fired Federal Match .308 to last a lifetime for my .358. I have annealed the necks on LC, Imperial and IVI as they are very heavy cases...sometimes as much as 20 grains heavier than others. I now have a dedicated expanding die. It's a 35 cal neck sizing die made by Hornady....I love their dies they are wonderfully made. It has a very long tapered expander ball, and if I do my part no splits. Here is what I do with regular sporting .308 cases:
I run a stainless bore brush on a cordless drill in and out of the neck to give it a nice cross hatch pattern, this also holds the lube inside the neck much better. I then use either a Q TIP with some STP son of a gun, or armour all and wipe the inside of the case neck. I have also used Hornady case lube paste and dab some on my finger tip....then just scoop a very small amount off with the lip of the neck until I have a VERY small bead of it around the inside of the case mouth. The Redding expander has such a long taper it makes a single smooth pass , without a split. They are not difficult to expand and do not require a lot of pressure. I mark the neck of my case that I am expanding by coloring the entire neck with a felt marker..then adjust the neck die down until I see I am making good contact and expanding the full neck. I made the mistake of expanding a bunch of cases one night then priming them, without chambering the case....yes, you guessed it, I didn't size far enough down the neck and I couldn't close the bolt without a good effort. I had to knock the primers out and do it all over again. So after I color the neck with the marker, I continue to screw the die down until I get just a soft yet with a slight bit of resistance from the bolt when I close it. This ensures I get good head spacing , and don't over adjust the die and push the shoulder back too far..
Then I uniform the primer pocket with a cutter, bevel the inside of the primer flash hole with my primer flash hole tool, trim to square up the case mouth ( they are typically 10 thous under SAAMI specs) but that is where I trim to anyways, so no worries about them being short. The neck is then chamfered in and out and finally a cross hatch pattern inside the neck with a cordless drill and bore brush for uniform neck tension. Lastly I prime with CCI BR-2 primers and I am done. I spend more time on brass prep than any other procedure in reloading...it's like therapy time for me and helps recharge the batteries, and I like eliminating every possible thing that can go wrong with a load. If I make a bad shot....I know it was me and not the tools. Dad used to say...." It was a poor workman who blames his tools "

[rockrat]

I just got a 358 back from JES reboring. I have formed 358 brass from Federal, R-P, and Laupua. The RP has the thinnest necks, about .002" less in dia., so .001"/side. Barely get boolit release, clearance is so tight, so can't really use the others unless I get a neck reamer. Think I need it as I do get a "doughnut" right at the base of the neck.

I have a barrel for an XP100, from a rechambered 35rem. Reformed cases from NATO IK brass and it shoots very well.

Need to get some WW308 brass and reform so see if I can get even a bit thinner necks or just run my 358 reamer in the chamber and open up the neck.

[400short]

Be careful when using reformed LC brass. I found that I ran into pressure limits before reaching my desired velocity. I'm sure due to reduced internal case volume. Winchester commercial brass did not express this problem. YMMV.

Regards,
Bill

[JesterGrin_1]

You could send it back to JES and have him open it up a bit so that you will not have a problem with Brass.

[35 shooter]

You could send it back to JES and have him open it up a bit so that you will not have a problem with Brass.

JesterGrin_1 Have you done any 358009 work with that AI yet? One of these days i've gotta find a donor rifle to send to JES. My whelen is lonesome in the closet and wants a little brother in .358!!!

[rexherring]

where?

http://www.bbrbrass.com/product-cate...ilitary-brass/

[Bjornb]

I just got a 358 back from JES reboring. I have formed 358 brass from Federal, R-P, and Laupua. The RP has the thinnest necks, about .002" less in dia., so .001"/side. Barely get boolit release, clearance is so tight, so can't really use the others unless I get a neck reamer. Think I need it as I do get a "doughnut" right at the base of the neck.

Guys, do yourselves a favor and look into neck turning before you start reaming the inside of your case necks. Inside reaming is an UNSUPPORTED procedure; you'll likely be much better served by outside turning the necks. And if you want to remove any donut in the process, get this tool:

The K&M neck turner has a mandrel that also has a cutter on the mandrel tip itself; it removes the donut and nothing more as you cut the outside neck.

[nanuk]

Inside reaming is an UNSUPPORTED procedure

you are using the wrong tool then....

[nanuk]

I wonder how x55 brass would work.... would make for a nice fit if the sizing die was well sized.

[claude]

I wonder how x55 brass would work....

The rim and base dimensions for the 6.5X55 are larger than the .308/.358, correct sizing could be problematic.

[Bjornb]

you are using the wrong tool then....

I have not found any inside neck reaming tool that supports the other side of the brass (the outside of the neck) so that only a measurable amount of brass can be removed from the inside. If you know of one such tool, please educate me. I always strive to learn new techniques.

[dragon813gt]

Inside reaming does not produce a uniform thickness. It should only be used to rough cut the brass when a good bit has to be removed. Outside neck turning will yield a uniform thickness. I haven't has any issue using reformed LC brass in a Savage 99 that was rebored by JES.

[Bjornb]

Inside reaming does not produce a uniform thickness. It should only be used to rough cut the brass when a good bit has to be removed. Outside neck turning will yield a uniform thickness. I haven't has any issue using reformed LC brass in a Savage 99 that was rebored by JES.

My experience exactly, but Nanuk seems to be of a different opinion, and I was curious as to the tool he is talking about that does supported inside neck reaming.

[dragon813gt]

My experience exactly, but Nanuk seems to be of a different opinion, and I was curious as to the tool he is talking about that does supported inside neck reaming.

I would like to know what tool he's talking about as well

[GLynn41]

guys you can also use 30.06-- remove the decaper-- lube a 30/06 and size in the .358 sizer -- then trim -- chamfer an shoot-- i hunt with nickled 30.06 brass they really last

[nanuk]

RCBS makes a reamer die, that you used once fired cases in.... supports the whole case, and the reamer too, so all is aligned. LEE Target model Loaders have that same operation I believe.

designed for reducing material in reduced necks, but also works with expanded necks if the neck is expanded slightly over, so it is partially sized in the die and held tight and straight

w w w.midwayusa.com/find?newcategorydimensionid=12783

[nanuk]

The rim and base dimensions for the 6.5X55 are larger than the .308/.358, correct sizing could be problematic.

in North American brass often the bases are on the small side, when coupled with most factory chambers (slightly on the loose side) you could end up with a nice fit in the chamber. Trim length could be perfected also is PP to eliminate paper rings, as GoodSteel mentioned.

if the base is sized a tad, the primer pocket could be reamed a bit, as well as the flash hole.

I have a PILE of Norma x55 brass ( as well as some other off shore brands ) that I was looking at playing with for a perfect chamber fit.

having to use a different shellholder is a non-issue with me.

[claude]

I hope that works out for you nanuk, it will help you while away all those hours in the igloo when the snow is *** deep on a tall indian.

[Bjornb]

RCBS makes a reamer die, that you used once fired cases in.... supports the whole case, and the reamer too, so all is aligned. LEE Target model Loaders have that same operation I believe.

designed for reducing material in reduced necks, but also works with expanded necks if the neck is expanded slightly over, so it is partially sized in the die and held tight and straight

w w w.midwayusa.com/find?newcategorydimensionid=12783

Nanuk,
I stand corrected, thank you for educating me. However, it appears that RCBS only makes these dies and reamers for semi-obscure cartridges that are formed from other brass. I tried to find one for 30-06 that I could have Goodsteel turn down to XCB, but it doesn't seem to exist. Too bad, it looks like a handy tool.