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Thread: Lyman 45 buying guide and cleanup instructions

  1. #161
    Boolit Master

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    Don't know if you can tell in the pic, bit it's the dreaded crack from over tightening the retention screw.

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    During the last year and a half I had bought three 45's and put them up on the shelf until I felt well enough to mess with them. Bad idea, I should have checked them out immediately,,,,,,.

    First bad sign was a sizing die with a chunk out of the lip of the die.

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    I believe this one can be saved be drilling and tapping for a 450 sizing die retaining nut if I can find out the tap size/thread pitch.
    More "This is what happened when I,,,,," and less "What would happen if I,,,,"

    Last of the original Group Buy Honcho's.

    "Dueling should have never been made illegal in this country. It settled lots of issues between folks."- Char-Gar

  2. #162
    Boolit Master



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    Or Brazing
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  3. #163
    Boolit Bub CeeHoo's Avatar
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    Well, somewhere in the north there's another 45 cycling again. Thanks to Jon for spare parts. I didn't want to strip the original finish so I only disassembled, cleaned and put it back together.

    Obviously the sizer needs to be mounted properly but other than that, first results were fine in my standards.



    Last edited by CeeHoo; 12-09-2018 at 03:23 PM.

  4. #164
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hamish View Post
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ID:	226341

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	45.4 KB 
ID:	226342

    Don't know if you can tell in the pic, bit it's the dreaded crack from over tightening the retention screw.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	47 
Size:	67.6 KB 
ID:	226343

    During the last year and a half I had bought three 45's and put them up on the shelf until I felt well enough to mess with them. Bad idea, I should have checked them out immediately,,,,,,.

    First bad sign was a sizing die with a chunk out of the lip of the die.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	37 
Size:	53.8 KB 
ID:	226344

    I believe this one can be saved be drilling and tapping for a 450 sizing die retaining nut if I can find out the tap size/thread pitch.
    Someone said brazing and I agree, I'd use a die grinder and make a v groove and fill it with braze, I'd use TIG brazing myself, less heating of the material that way.

  5. #165
    Boolit Buddy

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    I just got an older model 45 lube sizer, it was box part job for $20,
    full of unknown hard lube, which will be removed and cleaned up,
    the only thing missing is the main lube tube.

    Does anyone know the outside diameter and thread pitch, of this tube,
    or know where to obtain one?

    I think, I can machine one, if I can find the dimensions etc.

    Thank you, for your time and effort.
    Don

  6. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvreloader View Post
    SNIP...

    Does anyone know the outside diameter and thread pitch, of this tube,
    or know where to obtain one?
    I think, I can machine one, if I can find the dimensions etc.
    Sourcing new or used parts is almost impossible since the Lyman 45 hasn't been manufactured in over 50 years.
    The Reservoir tube for the Lyman 45 is a thin/fragile tube and since it isn't a common practice to remove the tube, a 50 year old threaded connection can be real tight, so it is easily damaged if precautions aren't taken when removing, which is probably why it wasn't in your box?

    With all that said, I measured an old tube for you.
    Disclaimer: I am not a machinist and did the best I could with these measurements.

    Length = 4.640"
    OD = 1.242"
    ID = 1.125"
    metal thickness ≈ 0.055"
    Length of threading on tube = 0.200"
    I counted about 3 threads in 0.125" length, which is "about" 24 TPI
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  7. #167
    Boolit Buddy

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    JonB

    Thank you for that info,

    The O/S dia of the lube Reservoir tube on my press measured is 1.242/3" and the same measurement inside of the top cap.

    Do you have a SWAG on how tight the dia should be for smooth function,
    would minus 1- 2 thousands clearance, be enough?
    I don't know how much the lube tube play with the accuracy when sizing etc.

    I plan on using this press for 22 cal slugs/pellets, after I make the sizing die holder to fit the base die hole,
    using NOE sizing dies etc.

    The casting number on this 45 is D or O (hard to read) 2, it has a solid cap with the long thread lube screw,
    which hand pushed out of the base with no problems, the threads appear to be very good shape

    The way you check the parts for any play/wobble, I followed, this press has no play or wobbles/slack,
    everything is tight and it operated very smoothly, it has a 429 base die with inside pin, but no upper pin.

    I'll figure out how the get the bottom die out, without damaging anything,
    after I use my heat gun to remove the old lube etc.

    From what I can see at this time, there does not appear to be any threads inside the bottom part,
    but there is so much lube, I can't be sure.

    All the thumb screw are like OEM issued, not chewed up etc, nor on any other parts,
    there very light rust marks on the rods, there is a little play/slop in the main handle linkage etc.

    The sticker on the back is clear colored with very faint black lettering.

    Tia,
    Don

  8. #168
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    Don,
    Here are some answers to your questions.

    Do you have a SWAG on how tight the dia should be for smooth function,
    would minus 1- 2 thousands clearance, be enough?
    I don't know how much the lube tube play with the accuracy when sizing etc.
    I don't have a numerical answer, if I were to machine one, I would machine it fit in the upper cast iron piece, no slop, but it should slide easily. Yes accuracy/alignment is part of the function of the Tube combined with the slide guide rods.


    The way you check the parts for any play/wobble, I followed, this press has no play or wobbles/slack,
    everything is tight and it operated very smoothly
    I thought you were missing the Tube, I don't think I could get a real 'feel' for it's operation (lack of wobbles/slack) without the Tube?


    I'll figure out how the get the bottom die out
    You should be able to easily lift it with the handle once Lube is heated/removed...or if un-assembled, just push from the bottom.

    From what I can see at this time, there does not appear to be any threads inside the bottom part,
    but there is so much lube, I can't be sure.
    The threads are very fine...I bet they are still there, coated with hard lube. Although, if the Reservoir Tube was broken off at the beginning of the threads, maybe that threaded part of the tube is inside the lower cast Iron piece?


    there is a little play/slop in the main handle linkage etc.
    That is very typical, even if it had little use, and luckily it is of no consequence...I keep mine well lubed.

    Good Luck,
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  9. #169
    Boolit Buddy

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    Thanks Jon

    Yes I am missing the tube, even with that missing,
    I can feel NO slack/play between the top and bottom main parts, when twisting these parts side to side etc.

    I found some DOM steel tubing, that is thick walled and the O/S is 1.250" diameter .095" wall thickness x 12" long for less than $20,
    I'll have to make/turn the inside cup to fit and polish down the tube to fit the OEM top part etc,
    this tubing will have right around a 1.055-0.60 inside diameter....for the inside lube cup.

    I just finished getting all the old lube out, looks like Black tar, Yucky stuff,
    removed the top from the bottom parts, and YES there are threads there, very fine,
    I'll check the thread size with a thread gage and see if there is a tap/die set for the right size.

    The sizer die pushed right out with the help of a nylon rod, after I got the old lube/casting hot enough,
    it is a .429 and the inside rod is slightly cupped on one end and rounded on the other.

    The only part that looks questionable is the linkage rod for the top part, that connects to the bottom part,
    it has a slight "Z" shaped bend, is this normal?

    The top cap is not threaded, I believe that there is another part missing, that sits on top of the lube,
    and when you might to squeeze the lube down to compress it etc.

    Is there a diagram/parts list for a 45 lube sizer?

    Tia,
    Don

  10. #170
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    Don,
    here are some more answers.

    The only part that looks questionable is the linkage rod for the top part, that connects to the bottom part,
    it has a slight "Z" shaped bend, is this normal?
    Yes, they have a bend at each end.


    The top cap is not threaded
    yes, that is correct.


    I believe that there is another part missing, that sits on top of the lube,
    and when you might to squeeze the lube down to compress it etc.
    Yes, it's called the Pressure nut


    Is there a diagram/parts list for a 45 lube sizer?
    Not really, other than the Manual I gave you a link to.
    Also, the photo's in the beginning of this thread should give you an idea of what they look like, to compare to what you have.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  11. #171
    Boolit Buddy

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    Jon

    I forgot to say "Thank you" for this post, along with most of the photo's, it has been a GREAT help,

    Here is some info that may help others along this path,
    These are to measurements I have on this Model 45 lube sizer,

    Lube screw is 3/8" x 20 tpi and has a 6 sided hex top that is/fits a 1/4" hex wrench/screw driver,
    Thumb screws (all) are 3/16" x 36 tpi,
    Adjust screw (on the bottom) is 13/32" x 30 tpi, (this the closest to standard tap sizes),
    Spring screws (both) are 8 x 40 tpi, (common scope base size),
    The cap on this sizer has a solid alum cap, .285 hole (not threaded) and 1.245/6" in diameter.

    I will post tomorrow when I have the rest of the OEM parts off and cleaned up.

    Ps, I have not found the parts manual, so far, re reading all info for the third time, on pg#3.

    Thank you,

    Tia,
    Don

  12. #172
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    yesterday, I sent this link (manual) to you in a private message, did you see that?
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...=1#post2670223
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  13. #173
    Boolit Buddy

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    Hi Jon

    Thank you for that info, I just read my pm, I did not get any alert that I had a pm.
    I have replied to your pm.

    Thank you,
    Don

  14. #174
    Boolit Buddy

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    Jon B rates 5 stars for all the help he provided.

    Thank you, Jon

    Don
    Last edited by nvreloader; 01-25-2019 at 12:18 AM.

  15. #175
    Boolit Master
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    Hi JonB.Great thread.Thank you for posting this info.Still have the Chapman wrench from the 450 that I used to have( from the mid to late 60`s.).Still works a treat too.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
    People never lie so much as after a hunt,during a war,or before an election.
    Otto von Bismarck

  16. #176
    Boolit Master
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    Last summer I bought what I thought was a box of parts from a broken 45 at an estate auction. I had the intention of having spare parts on hand, but when I got it home I realized all the parts were there-even the wrench; it had just been partially disassembled to fit in a box. I got the old lube out with hot water on the Coleman stove and it's ready to go. Cost was $4.00.

  17. #177
    Boolit Bub


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    Good morning and Happy Easter!
    After years of reloading (pure enjoyment) and my dads close friend who is a member on here telling me I should seriously consider boolit casting, I finally made the plunge. I always figured, need to learn to walk before you can run approach. With his tutoring, I found a 45, it looks to be in excellent condition, paint and bluing look great and it has the dogbone wrench. I’m pretty excited and since Im just starting down this rabbit hole, I’ll keep things simple.

    This thread has been a great help with the wealth of knowledge in here, thank you. Lots of ingenuity with the fab work. I do have a question if anyone cares to explain it to a new guy. A gas check tool isn’t needed? Is there a specific die that accomplishes the seating/crimping of said gas checks. Per diameter? It was briefly described a few pages back. Sorry, just trying to get a clear idea how it’s accomplished. Thanks!

  18. #178
    Boolit Buddy fred2892's Avatar
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    Lyman 45 buying guide and cleanup instructions

    No you don’t need a gas check tool. The mere act of sizing and lubing a bullet will seat and crimp the gas check at the same time.

    And welcome to the board.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  19. #179
    Boolit Bub


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    Thanks for the info Fred!

  20. #180
    Boolit Bub


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    My 45 arrived today, it’s in pretty good shape and still has the box. It doesn’t appear to have been abused much at all. Guide rods are tight. However, it looks like a boolit it lodged in the installed die?! Bought off eBay.




    The pressure nut was spinning of course. I had already made plans to clean it up, get all the old gunk out and start anew. I did try to use Jon’s advice and freeze the sizer in attempt to lock it up to get the pressure nut out. Didn’t work, still spun.

    I decided to hit the backside of the sizer with blow drier to warm up any lube and try to refreeze. It got warm enough to change the tolerances (tightened) the pressure nut came right out. No need to freeze again. It didn’t marr anything on the way out.

    Is the upgrade/o-ring design still available?


    Pretty nasty stuff...


    I hit the backside of the sizer with a little more heat and ker-ploop it all slid out in one loaf. I didn’t mess with it prior, just let heat and gravity take over.


    With the heat-cycling, I put some Kroil at the base of the lube canister. I’m going to let it soak till tomorrow night. Most everything else is soaking in mineral spirits. Going to take my time.

    Anyone know what this stands for? Date of manufacture? Revision? Lot? Just curious.


    A big thanks to this thread, very helpful!!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check