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Thread: Lyman 45 buying guide and cleanup instructions

  1. #121
    Boolit Master

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    Thanks Jon. I've been reading up on the 45 for the last hour. I think I could put one to good use. I will start looking for one. Thanks steve

  2. #122
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    Lyman 45 buying guide and cleanup instructions

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Daiute View Post
    Did ANY of the 45's come with a handle that had a bend in it? I just got a 45 and the handle has roughly, 20° bend in it, with no signs of having been welded/repaired.

    I got my first 45 for 5 bucks at a local gun store. I smile every time I use it and I have sized and lubed thousands of boolits with it.
    I have one two!. I assumed it was bent at some point, but being cast iron, surprised it didn't break. I began to wonder if I could bend it back, without snapping it, or if came that way originally?

    Ah, but seeing your pics, mine is different, right at the wood handle, where the "pin" meets the lever part. The thinnest/ easiest to bend, but also to snap?!

    It looks like maybe someone applied to much down pressure, without anything breaking, even the wood handle.

    I will get a pic tomorrow.....ish.
    Last edited by Sekatoa; 08-18-2015 at 01:18 AM.

  3. #123
    Boolit Buddy dsbock's Avatar
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    I wish I had found this thread earlier. I picked up an Ideal 45 about a year ago. I figured out how to take it apart and clean it all by my lonesome.

    Mine came with the original box and wrench as well.

    I'll try to put up some pictures in the next few days.

    David
    Cats are fun and magical when you can't smell their poop! Fresh Step!

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    I'm looking for a shooter grade Smith & Wesson Victory model in .38 Special.

  4. #124
    Boolit Master
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    JonB (and all) first and foremost thanks so much for this most excellent information on the Lyman 45. Having a 450 I didn't actually need a 45 until this past weekend when at the Sportsman Yard Sale in Chambersburg I found a 45 for the princely sum of...$5. Yes...$5. It is in remarkably good shape, nothing bubba'd and all the parts in working order. The paint is a bit tattered but none the worse for wear. I dis-assembled the unit as much as I felt needed and boiled then cleaned it all up with mineral spirits. Even came with a .358 die and a top punch! This unit has the piston with the brass sleeve on it. Noticed that the piston has 2 pins located 180 degrees apart that secure the brass sleeve and one of the pins is a bit rounded. The sleeve stays put (can't move up due to the piston design) but wondered if the proper repair would be to centerpunch the pin just to make sure the brass sleeve stays in place or just order up a late model piston and O-rings? Also the screw that raises/lowers the piston is threaded almost to the bottom and wondered about installing a sleeve/bushing to prevent the piston from bottoming out? The die, once removed and cleaned has the groove for an o-ring but no o-ring. Did the 45 not use an o-ring on the die? Many thanks in advance for any answers to these questions. Audie...the Oldfart..

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldfart1956 View Post
    snipped...
    This unit has the piston with the brass sleeve on it. Noticed that the piston has 2 pins located 180 degrees apart that secure the brass sleeve and one of the pins is a bit rounded. The sleeve stays put (can't move up due to the piston design) but wondered if the proper repair would be to centerpunch the pin just to make sure the brass sleeve stays in place or just order up a late model piston and O-rings?
    I strongly suggest to NOT modify the pressure nut's pins and it's brass sleeve before you give it a try. Yes the brass sleeve kinda floats on the pressure nut. it's suppose to be like that, I think if you stake it on, you may cause an issue.
    Many people have upgraded to the new style pressure nut with Orings and like them, I actually like the old style "brass ring sleeve" type better. Besides that fact that the o-rings need occasional replacement, the small ribbon of lube that leaks out of the old style is a good indicator (if it grows large) of too much pressure or too much heat.

    Quote Originally Posted by oldfart1956 View Post
    snipped...
    Also the screw that raises/lowers the piston is threaded almost to the bottom and wondered about installing a sleeve/bushing to prevent the piston from bottoming out?
    Yes, this is how all the older style are. Lyman offers a sleeve, but it sure would be easy to make. If you make one, be sure it can't obstruct the Lube port in the bottom of the reservoir. Another thing I have thought about, is making a slot in the top of the pressure nut, so it could be kept from spinning by using a slotted screwdriver, in one of those rare instances that you have that problem. While I suggest that mod, I have never done it, it seems to always slip my mind when I have one apart


    Quote Originally Posted by oldfart1956 View Post
    snipped...
    The die, once removed and cleaned has the groove for an o-ring but no o-ring. Did the 45 not use an o-ring on the die?
    The old style dies have only one groove, it's for the 45's setscrew. Are you confusing that with an Oring groove? If not, then I suspect your Die is a new style with both a groove for the 45's setscrew and a second groove for an Oring. If so, I'd find an Oring. I believe the new style die is a thou or two smaller and needs the Oring to seal properly.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  6. #126
    Boolit Master
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    JonB thanks for the reply. I'll take your advice and stay with the original piston and make the modification you mentioned. (the slot in the top) It worked for 50+ years so why change it. I was thinking for a bushing to prevent the piston from going too far down and getting stuck just getting a proper inside diameter bushing from the hardware, either nylon/plastic/brass or steel, and cutting it about 3/8 to 1/2 inch long and slide it down the screw before installing the piston. Even a short section of pvc would work wouldn't it? Just something for the piston to bottom out on before it hits the end of the threads and jams up. And the die has only 1 groove so it is the proper one and doesn't use the o-ring. Should have known that when I saw the marks from the set screw. Duh. (set screw would gammahooch any o-ring) Again, many thanks! Audie...the Oldfart..

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldfart1956 View Post
    snip...
    Even a short section of pvc would work wouldn't it?
    Yeah, probably, but you don't want the OD to be near the ID of the reservoir tube, or it will block the Lube port. Same goes with a spacer with a larger ID, so the spacer could travel side to side...and maybe block the lube port.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  8. #128
    Boolit Master

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    Well I took the plunge and purchased a 45. JonB had one available, cleaned and checked out, so the decision was easy. It arrived the other day and I set it up with a 311" die he included. I like to make my own lube and Jon suggested a couple. I'm setting this one up for very mild 32-20 smokless loads for a couple antique rifles. My 450 is set up with black powder lube, so I wanted this one for my low speed 32 smokess bullets. Using tried and true ingredients I mixed up a batch of my Bluebonnet lube:
    5oz beeswax
    3oz soy wax
    2oz synthetic 2cycle oil
    1/2tsp lanolin
    1 blue crayon

    This lube is soft enough to go through the 45 without a heater. It is firm and a little tacky so it sticks well in the grooves. Just right for my purpose.

    Thanks JonB!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails L45.jpg  

  9. #129
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    Depending on "brand" of synth 2 cycle oil and it's individual "slickness", you may see lube purging flyers with that percentage of 2 cycle oil. If you do, just add a little more beeswax.

    FYI: lube purging flyers are where you are getting pretty good groups, but one out of every 3 or 4 or 5 shots is a couple inches out of the group. My first attempt at this recipe was 2/3 wax to 1/3 oil (PAO based Amsoil), that's when I learned of lube purging flyers. I had to back it off to the 11:2 ratio, as in the published recipe on the link I gave you, to eliminate the lube purging flyers. I'm guessing that PAO is slicker than others, so if you are using something else, it's less likely to happen at your percentage.

    Now, another thing to add (that I've learned in the last year or so), if adding beeswax makes the lube too stiff for your taste, adding a oil that doesn't have any "slickness modifier" will soften the lube without adding the slickness...Like food grade mineral oil (a laxative available at the drug store). OK, besides being able to flow through a lubesizer, the other advantage of a soft lube, is it's ability to be "flung" off the boolit as it exits the muzzle...a desired effect for accuracy.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  10. #130
    Boolit Master

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    Jon - I used Craftsman full synthetic 2 cycle oil fram Advance Auto Parts. I'll watch for the lube purging flyers. If I see it happen, i'll reduce the oil a bit. Thanks for the tip.

  11. #131
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	147286Just refreshed my Lyman 45 on Friday/Saturday. Got it loaded up with some Carnuba Red for my MP 359-640 I've been slinging lead through.
    I let my boy pick the paint color, I reblued the guide rods and the tube with Dicrophan from Brownell's. It takes the bluing much easier/better if you heat the metal to be blued. I used a heat gun, same heat gun I heat the. 45 with when using harder lubes.
    I replaced the pressure screw, the pressure nut, new reservoir cap, replaced the old stripped out screws with machine bolts with nuts.
    I expcet it to be a long time before doing all that work to it again.

  12. #132
    Boolit Master

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    As I walked through my shop today, it dawned on me that my old shop press had a family resemblance to my new Lyman 45. Coincidence - maybe. Distant relatives - probably not. Then again, with a little modification it could be used to size artillery projectiles!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Brothers.jpg  

  13. #133
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ID:	148235Recent refresh. Reblued the reservoir and guide rods while the paint and clear coat were drying. It is super tight and will be used for the softer lube (2500+) so I can leave the other 45 setup with Carnuba Red. The brass pressure nut will be left in this one unless I get too much blow by when it's hot outside.
    As a side note, the original Chapman wrench was included, it is much stronger than the Chinese copy lyman sells currently, I'll probably order it a 1/4" gearwrench though and save the Chapman

  14. #134
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
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    Chapman still sells their version and for reasonable too ! Iirc they even have a reversible one and some other cool tools ( I loves me compact double sided reversible Phillips screwdriver - looks just like the Chapman we use on our 45's ,that lil dude has saved me bacon more than a few times ! )

    edit to add links
    home page
    http://chapmanmfg.com/
    wrench ( for the unheard of price of $5.75 ermm well + S&H )
    http://chapmanmfg.com/products/famou...-ratchet-cm-13
    "Our customers have told us this "is the ratchet used to feed lube through a Lyman lube and sizer" "

    best yet
    "Chapman tools are made in Durham, CT from USA materials. We support American made machinery tool and die makers, fabricators, metal finishers, machine part manufacturers and other local service providers. Your support of Chapman MFG in turn supports all the American workers supporting us that we rely on!

    American Made Materials

    Chapman insert bits are milled from USA tool steel. The ball bearing and spring in every bit are also made in the USA, and the bits are heat treated and finished with black oxide in Connecticut.

    Our famous midget ratchet is punched from USA stainless steel and all the internals are also made in USA."


    All three of our cases are made in the USA, and one of them is made about an hour away from our shop in CT."

    sadly they no longer show my fav screwdriver , i may have to baby it and never ever lend it to some one again
    Last edited by fryboy; 09-04-2015 at 05:21 PM. Reason: edit to add link
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  15. #135
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    Jon

    Rebuilding a Lyman 45 for a friend. This post is of great help.

  16. #136
    Boolit Buddy
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    I've read this thread a few times, many thanks Jon, for your efforts on this!
    I found a 45 in a gunshop a few weeks back for $15, as is. Stopped back and it was still there on Saturday, so I grabbed it. They said if I used a card they would have to charge me tax. No problem

    All complete and no cracks.
    Got the pressure nut out over the weekend, and check the alignment of the rods, all good to go. Spring is even tight. Other than a generous layer of lube and dirt, she seems perfect.

    Pat

  17. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    Now that the die, pressure nut, and pressure screw have been removed, the depth control assembly can be removed...the parts are shown below.



    Now the Lube can be removed. Some folks boil it out, I tried it once, and I failed to wait til everything cooled so the lube would solidify on the top of the water.
    So I had a Big mess ! When I removed the hot/warm sizer from the hot/warm water, the hot/warm lube floating on top decided to cling to the sizer like static cling...then trying to wipe off the hot/warm lube off the hot/warm sizer was an incredibly Big chore !
    So I haven't tried it again, but since others have been successful, I guess it works.

    I use a heatgun, it works well for me. I do this outside, and prop the sizer in a cardboard box to catch all the lube. I'm not trying to save the lube, just get it out and throw it away (or use it for flux).



    OK, whatever this lube is... "portions" of it ain't melting !!!! Maybe the lube ingrediants have separated ? But I am skeptical of that. I think someone filled it with a soft black grease (maybe lyman super moly?), but there are deposits of a very hard lube in the bottom of the reservior and in the bottom cast iron piece, obviously plugging it up...and that is probably why there was grease coming out of the top...the last person that tried to use this sizer surely failed to make it work.

    So I removed all the soft grease with a screwdriver. Then paper towels wrapped on the screwdriver to get any residue so I could get a better idea of how much of the hard deposits were in there. Well there was plenty. I will try soaking all the parts with hard deposits in mineral spirits once it's all completely disassembled.



    Now the slide rods and spring can be removed and the upper cast iron piece can be removed too.



    I wasn't originally wasn't going to remove the lube reservior tube from the lower cast iron piece because it is a difficult task and is easy to damage the tube...also the threads are super fine and can easily be crossed were reassembling.



    I put all the parts into the bowl and covered then with mineral spirits. I let it sit for a few hours. The hard deposits softened some, so I picked them out with wooden chop sticks, so I wouldn't scratch things up. It took a while and maybe if I was patient enough to let the parts soak for a day or two, it would have been easier ?



    Well, I got this far, I might as well remove all the paint and try to repaint it with some Chevy engine paint.

    I will remove all the bluing and break out the cold blue solution. I've never got a nice dark blue/black finish like the original finish from cold bluing, but it'll at least be a uniform dark grey and provide some rust protection for the metal.



    After completely degreasing all the parts, I used some heavy wheelbearing grease on all the threaded areas and where the die inserts and where the slides slide through. After the paint cured, it was easy to remove the paint from those greased areas. I used birchwood-casey cold blue on all the other parts (except the new spring). I applied it many times, although it looks pretty good in the photos, it's still dark grey "in person".





    I really dislike the original SMALL wooden handle, so I found a chunk of stag horn to replace that...a guy has to personalize a project somehow, right ?

    An easy way to get a solid grip on the Tube for disassemble is to wind a bit electrician Tape around it then fasten a Hose clamp over it and now the Hose clamp provides a surface which you can mar with your Channel Pliers and wont damage and/or mar the Tube. Love your Paint Job !
    Last edited by Graybeard96; 04-22-2016 at 10:09 AM. Reason: ad on

  18. #138
    Boolit Bub MnSpring's Avatar
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    Well, their is one on G.B., item/576689250, it is, 'old/new'.
    Ben Franklin once said:
    "If you give up a freedom, for the sake of security, you will have neither".

    Which is More TRUE, today, than yesterday.

  19. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldtoolsniper View Post
    I thought I would add to this thread, based on Jon's instructions in this post I'm cleaning up, repainting, and repairing four Lyman 45'.
    This one is the worst of the lot it's in rough shape. I started with it because I figure if I can get this one cleaned up and working nice the rest should be a breeze.
    Attachment 61004

    As Jon stated it is extremely difficult to remove those tubes once you have it stripped-down. I tried a strap wrench and that just slid around the tube. I too had to resort to the bicycle chain wrench.
    To prevent crushing I turned a wooden dowel to the inside diameter of the tube.
    Attachment 61005
    I wrapped a bit of Masking tape around the Tube then on top fastened a Garden hose Clamp. This setup allowed me to grab the Hoseclamp with the Plier leaving no scratches on the Tube whatsoever.


    Cheers.

  20. #140
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by Graybeard96 View Post
    I wrapped a bit of Masking tape around the Tube then on top fastened a Garden hose Clamp. This setup allowed me to grab the Hoseclamp with the Plier leaving no scratches on the Tube whatsoever.


    Cheers.
    I like it!!!!!!!!!!!

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
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GC Gas Check