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Thread: Lyman 45 buying guide and cleanup instructions

  1. #181
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I have never found any info on the markings cast into the 45.

    The Oring style nut that Lyman uses on the 4500 will fit on the 45.

    I actually prefer the old brass sleeve style nut, they act like an indicator of over pressure or over heat, as they will leak quite a bit in those conditions, but if you keep it at the correct pressure and temperature, they will not leak or maybe leak a tiny ribbon of lube. Also there is no Orings to replace, they get pinched easily when adding more lube.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  2. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    I have never found any info on the markings cast into the 45.

    The Oring style nut that Lyman uses on the 4500 will fit on the 45.

    I actually prefer the old brass sleeve style nut, they act like an indicator of over pressure or over heat, as they will leak quite a bit in those conditions, but if you keep it at the correct pressure and temperature, they will not leak or maybe leak a tiny ribbon of lube. Also there is no Orings to replace, they get pinched easily when adding more lube.
    From the man himself, thank you Jon! I am in the process of cleaning mine up, no indications of scoring/marring...ect. There is some green oxidation from sitting. That will come off after soaking I'd imagine. I did order the new style stuff just to have on hand for rainy day scenario's. I am also thinking of fabbing a handle like you did a bit later. Thanks for the work you did in this thread.

    Lyman upgrade #'s
    Pressure Nut w/O-Rings: 2990708
    Spare O-Ring's: 2990689
    Pressure Screw, be advised, I was told its a bit longer but will work: 2990559
    Nylon Piston Collar Stop (keeps pressure nut from bottoming out): 2745820
    $18 shipped.

    I did ask them about the numbers stamped in casting body near die. I was told that's a date of manufacture code. He didn't know how to decipher it.

  3. #183
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    The Handle link has two slight bends (photo shown with a straight steel shaft to highlight the bends in the link). The bends are offset to compensate for the design.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 04-27-2019 at 11:40 AM.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  4. #184
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    To share the information, Jon and I were discussing the handle link and possible defects. Mine had high-metal on the ends of the links. However, the clevis for the handle and the one on the base of the unit, didn’t display any signs of displaced metal or smearing from interference. Also, the link is fully coated. That ushered in the notion that the high metal I was seeing, was not mushroomed over, but casting burrs or booger’s that were not cleaned up during the manufacturing process. See pics, in some pics I had already started to dress them with a Swiss file.




    These shouldn’t inhibit use in anyway. The only possible issue, an eyesore.

    As Jon stated, there is a bend in the link, it’s supposed to be there. I had no idea and was going to cold work it straight, glad I didn’t..

  5. #185
    Boolit Bub smilin jack's Avatar
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    No lube leaks now

    Got my old 450 at an estate sale about 1990. Been using it all along with a little lube always leaking out base O-ring.
    Friend gave me a coffee can of Hard red lube and it still blew the O-ring using a heater set to 110*F.
    Dreamed up an idea to fix it. New O-ring and aluminum plate to hold base plug in place.
    Added 2 bolts at front to keep things level.
    Last edited by smilin jack; 05-13-2019 at 10:30 PM. Reason: trying to post pictures
    smilin jack

  6. #186
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    So I was able to steal away a bit of time to tackle the teardown of the newly acquired 45 in between bouts of yardwork (to cool off of course) this weekend. A heatgun melted out the remaining lube into my salvaged lube collection (posted elsewhere)

    Unlike my first one this sizer, though complete, is in rough shape and I wanted to do a complete teardown (except the reservoir) rather than a solvent bath cleanup. Everything was coming apart just fine (including both spring screws) until I got to the lower cross brace where both screws were stuck pretty good. I liberally soaked them down with PB Blaster and used my battery nut pliers (sort of a small pipe wrench) and the first popped loose and came right out with no issues. The second one remained stuck tight in place. Repeated heat soak and penetrant oil cycles had no effect. Rather than walk away and let it soak overnight I tried one more (sometimes successful) trick of rapping the screw with a hammer (4oz) to shock it loose. Ether I twisted a bit too much on the previous attempts or tapped it a little offset after the third rap and turn attempt the top of the thumbscrew popped off while tapping away.

    Since it was now “broke” I pulled out the trusty needle nose vice grips and promptly snapped off the remaining stub of the remaining screw on the first twist flush with the cross brace .. Definitely not my day.

    I’m now left with the two choices- leave it as is and pretend it’s a punch pin and clean around it or try and drill it out and hopefully not damage the guide rod too much.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #187
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    That’s a tough one. It might be worth it to really spray it good with penetrating oil/kroil. I know you’ve already done this. Let it sit a bit longer. Then, if you can find an extractor/easy-out small enough, that might be worthy a shot. A word of advice, don’t break the easy-out off...speaking from experience.

  8. #188
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    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    Well i surrendered, i was able to drill thru and free the rod by shearing off the end of the thumbscrew but it remains hopelessly stuck. Each attempt at heating and soaking was to no avail thumbscrew threads remain hopelessly stuck. The easy out would not grab at all. I finally reached the point where i was into the threads of the cross brace and apparently the tap for these are not on the shelf at the local home stores (i even struck out on Amazon) and are only available from places like Midway. i pondered over-drilling the holes and re-tapping and using a standard setscrew but a quick note to JonB has a replacement cross brace and thumbscrew on the way to keep it stock.

    Amazingly enough the reservoir just screwed right out, no pipe wrenches special mandrels and so on, just bare hands. everything went into a solvent bath which ate off the remaining orange paint. so now im on to prime/paint and a learning experience on doing cold blue.

    Heres some pix of the progress:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #189
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    Another one saved thanks to this guide and parts from JB and the H&I dies from George. Seeing it next to my “older” one which was left original I guess Krylon Orange is a little too bright but gets the job done. Here’s a couple of additional notes for those collecting tools/materials that I haven’t found in the thread:

    The guide rods/nuts are threaded 1/4-28
    Birchwood Casey cold blue works well here and covers a lot of age staining improving the looks.
    I have a box full of cap plugs that made blocking off the no paint areas easier.
    Definitely get the proper taps and chase the threads in the spring screws and the thumbscrew holes after rust abatement and painting, the top spring screw is the worst to clean up as it is a blind hole.
    There are 3 different length thumbscrews, the shorter ones are for the crossbrace, the next longer is for the top punch and the last mentioned previously has a fiber or wood insert for the Depth stop.
    The 1/4 external snap rings for the link pin were pretty easy to find at the local hardware store
    The 5/16 external snap ring for the handle was a bit tougher, finally found one to fit in a buddy’s Horrible Freight set. Not like the original but works for now. I’ll be looking but don’t really want to buy a hundred to get the one I need.
    It took two new sticks of Lyman alox to refill the system to get restarted, probably another half stick would have filled it up.
    For both units I really need to replace the springs, I’ll find something locally, they don’t need much, maybe a second internal spring just as an extra bump to keep the handle up.
    When I went to set the die the 3/4 in screws I used promptly ripped out of the pine block. 1 1/4 long screws and an oak base corrected that issue (I clamp all tools mounted on blocks except for the press.

    It’s maiden voyage was to lube up 100 or so .38 bullets with the alox.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #190
    Boolit Mold
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    Hello,
    I own a 450 lube sizer and know one could change the "duo" handle in a "single" handle like the newer ones Lyman sells today. Anybody knows where to find a replacement kit?
    Thanks.

  11. #191
    Boolit Master Mark Daiute's Avatar
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    I think it is fair to say tht collect 45's. I have 8 or 9 of them. It finaly happened, I have a 45 with the crack at the set-screw. Is it done? Has anyone repaired this, brought a 45 back from this?

    Mark

  12. #192
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    I have a 45 recently purchased at a farm sale, and I dismantled it to clean out all the old lube. Does anybody have recommendations on cleaning the entire thing to prevent damaging the original paint? After reading this entire guide, it appears that everyone is either boiling them in water or soaking them with mineral spirits. Or is there something else that will melt out all the original lube without damaging the orange paint or the nice bluing on the cylinder? Gasoline? (which I usually use for old tractor parts.)

  13. #193
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    In the third post, I say I use a Heatgun to remove the old lube, if you are watchful and careful, you won't damage the paint. Once all the lube melted out, I clean up the residue with MS, while the chassis is still warm, using a skewer & cotton patches, pipe cleaner brushes work too.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  14. #194
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    Thanks JonB for your recommendations. I have the 45 looking good as new now, empty of lube, all greased up and back together. One more question, I am missing one of the clips that hold the lever arm pivot pin in place. On one end is a groove that has a snap ring in place. On the other end there is a hole drilled through it that may have had a cotter pin or something else through it. Does anybody know what came from the factory in that hole?

  15. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonMountain View Post
    SNIP...

    One more question, I am missing one of the clips that hold the lever arm pivot pin in place. On one end is a groove that has a snap ring in place. On the other end there is a hole drilled through it that may have had a cotter pin or something else through it. Does anybody know what came from the factory in that hole?
    That changed over the years, but if there was a hole, then it got a cotter pin.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  16. #196
    Boolit Mold metalman21's Avatar
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    I was given a no. 45 lube sizer in pretty decent shape. Melted to old lube out of it with a inferred lamp, then took it apart to toughly clean it out the bullet lube. The threads on the pressure screw (?) were a little messed up but easy fix with a 60 degree file.
    So it is all back together with a new .356 die and 311 top punch for cast 9mm's.
    Big questions: 1 I'm not sure I have the knockout rod (J?) install correctly, I think I saw it i photos both ways: flat pad up and pad down?
    2 How to adjust the threaded sleeve that the rod runs through?
    I will try to attach photos.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  17. #197
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    Big questions:
    1 I'm not sure I have the knockout rod (J?) install correctly, I think I saw it i photos both ways: flat pad up and pad down?
    2 How to adjust the threaded sleeve that the rod runs through?
    1, you have it wrong, the large flat head should be on top, pushing on the "I" portion (inner pin) of the Die. When the boolit is pushed down, the large flat head contacts the threaded sleeve (depth stop) and that's how to set the depth. Also, the large flat head should contact the die body when pushing the boolit back out of the die body and act as a stop.

    2, The threaded sleeve can go either way. I recently found out that it needs to be the way you have it, if you want to use the Lyman gas check seater insert...which I previously didn't know that was even possible...I had thought it only worked on the 450 and the 4500.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  18. #198
    Boolit Mold metalman21's Avatar
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    Thanks for the response, I flipped it over.

  19. #199
    Boolit Buddy
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    What a wonderful thread. I now have an orange Chapman ratchet for my otherwise intact and well preserved 45. (replacing an ancient cold water tap handle) Observation: mine has the older skeletal tube cap, and I much prefer it, easy to see how far down the lube piston is.

  20. #200
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    I also love the cast iron "older skeletal tube cap", mostly because of the looks.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check